Boost leak and im about to give up and sell her.
06-01-09, 03:04 PM
#26
If you have a boost leak the only way to truely fix the problem is to take every single coupler, hose, etc. in between the Y pipe and the intake elbow.
To truely inspect any of these hoses and couplers you have to have them in your hand and bend them around every which way. This will most likely reveal a small split somewhere. Go ahead and flip the couplers inside out while checking them, this will often show a small tear that could have not been seen before.
To truely inspect any of these hoses and couplers you have to have them in your hand and bend them around every which way. This will most likely reveal a small split somewhere. Go ahead and flip the couplers inside out while checking them, this will often show a small tear that could have not been seen before.
06-01-09, 03:43 PM
#27
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i have it all stock i have the air bypass valves that came stock on the rx7 from what i was told. but ya its a different sound.
06-01-09, 03:45 PM
#28
Now more than ever I believe that maybe you should rethink the ownership of your car given that you are still in college and receive financial aid. I know the car is cool and you feel like the **** when you drive it (we all do lol) but this ******* car snacks on $500 bills... You don't wanna know what it eats when it's truly hungry
Trust me on the fact that FD's will be around in 4 years and you will enjoy it more as it wont have adverse effects on your lifestyle when it breaks.
That's it I'm off the soap box. Good luck
06-01-09, 03:45 PM
#29
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If you have a boost leak the only way to truely fix the problem is to take every single coupler, hose, etc. in between the Y pipe and the intake elbow.
To truely inspect any of these hoses and couplers you have to have them in your hand and bend them around every which way. This will most likely reveal a small split somewhere. Go ahead and flip the couplers inside out while checking them, this will often show a small tear that could have not been seen before.
To truely inspect any of these hoses and couplers you have to have them in your hand and bend them around every which way. This will most likely reveal a small split somewhere. Go ahead and flip the couplers inside out while checking them, this will often show a small tear that could have not been seen before.
06-01-09, 03:52 PM
#30
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I can certainly appreciate fixing it yourself. I hope that you do fix it and it costs little to nothing.
Now more than ever I believe that maybe you should rethink the ownership of your car given that you are still in college and receive financial aid. I know the car is cool and you feel like the **** when you drive it (we all do lol) but this ******* car snacks on $500 bills... You don't wanna know what it eats when it's truly hungry
Trust me on the fact that FD's will be around in 4 years and you will enjoy it more as it wont have adverse effects on your lifestyle when it breaks.
That's it I'm off the soap box. Good luck
Now more than ever I believe that maybe you should rethink the ownership of your car given that you are still in college and receive financial aid. I know the car is cool and you feel like the **** when you drive it (we all do lol) but this ******* car snacks on $500 bills... You don't wanna know what it eats when it's truly hungry
Trust me on the fact that FD's will be around in 4 years and you will enjoy it more as it wont have adverse effects on your lifestyle when it breaks.
That's it I'm off the soap box. Good luck
lol ya i bought the car not running. and bought new rebuilt engine that costed $3800 then about $3300 for misc. parts and labor. then when i had some other problems that costed $600 in parts and labor. you think with all that i wouldnt have any problems since ive only been driving the car for about 8 months.
and ya they will be around in 4 years but they will be even more expensive!!! lol
but i do appreciate you input.
thanks
06-01-09, 04:07 PM
#32
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get two 2 pvc caps or empty beer bottles(don't want to waste good beer), put them in your air filter intake tubes to block air and pressurize your engine to 15psi through the power brake booster line on the upper intake. and listen for the leak. if no leak then turn the key to the on position. this will check 85% of your lines, actuators, couplers ect....
Good luck
Good luck
06-01-09, 04:09 PM
#33
Ha, thats one of the 8? vacuum solenoids. From your posts you seem to have little to no knowledge of the stock turbo control system. It is very complex and the only way you stand a chance with it is to start reading. Somebody posted a vacuum diagram on the first page of this thread....Enlarge it, print it and post it in your garage. It is your new best friend. You need to start tracing every vacuum line and make sure that they connected, not cracked, and are in the correct position. Every one needs to be in the correct place or your boost pattern will be F'ed.
Still sounds like you might have a boost leak though, so I would still go through the whole run of charge piping between the turbos and intake elbow.
Still sounds like you might have a boost leak though, so I would still go through the whole run of charge piping between the turbos and intake elbow.
06-01-09, 04:24 PM
#35
It really sounds like it may just be a bad coupler.
This sound happens while in boost or only when you let off the gas and boost quits?
Do you get more than 5psi in at any rpm?
You said it recently was rebuilt, has it been like this since the rebuild or did is just start occuring?
I definately empathyze wih your situation. I used to live three hours from anywhere and it was very difficult if I needed help. But I am much better for having gone through it. With the help of others on here and my desire to READ/RESEARCH I have been able to work through many small problems. I know this thing is really agravating, but it is a very simple problem though it is difficult to find the source.
This sound happens while in boost or only when you let off the gas and boost quits?
Do you get more than 5psi in at any rpm?
You said it recently was rebuilt, has it been like this since the rebuild or did is just start occuring?
I definately empathyze wih your situation. I used to live three hours from anywhere and it was very difficult if I needed help. But I am much better for having gone through it. With the help of others on here and my desire to READ/RESEARCH I have been able to work through many small problems. I know this thing is really agravating, but it is a very simple problem though it is difficult to find the source.
06-01-09, 04:29 PM
#36
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Ha, thats one of the 8? vacuum solenoids. From your posts you seem to have little to no knowledge of the stock turbo control system. It is very complex and the only way you stand a chance with it is to start reading. Somebody posted a vacuum diagram on the first page of this thread....Enlarge it, print it and post it in your garage. It is your new best friend. You need to start tracing every vacuum line and make sure that they connected, not cracked, and are in the correct position. Every one needs to be in the correct place or your boost pattern will be F'ed.
Still sounds like you might have a boost leak though, so I would still go through the whole run of charge piping between the turbos and intake elbow.
Still sounds like you might have a boost leak though, so I would still go through the whole run of charge piping between the turbos and intake elbow.
this is what i gotta deal with now.
06-01-09, 04:31 PM
#37
wow a lot of help guys thank you so much! im going to try to find the leak with all this info. and how do you check if its a solenoid thats bad in the rats nest? because maybe thats it. and you can hear boost escaping.
also nowhere around here sells silicone tubing. we have a pepboys, autozone, kragen, and two smaller shops in the area. but once you tell them what you need the part for they just say no with a quickness and say i cant help ya because its an import. hence why im so upset with this problem. the hose i replaced cost me $88 dollars from mazda. so where can i get silicone hose at for a reasonable price?
also nowhere around here sells silicone tubing. we have a pepboys, autozone, kragen, and two smaller shops in the area. but once you tell them what you need the part for they just say no with a quickness and say i cant help ya because its an import. hence why im so upset with this problem. the hose i replaced cost me $88 dollars from mazda. so where can i get silicone hose at for a reasonable price?
06-01-09, 04:37 PM
#39
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06-01-09, 06:53 PM
#41
are they set up to recalculate or vent to atmosphere. have you gotten under the hood and revved the motor to see if you could pin point where it's coming from? Check the hoses coming out of the back of the CRV and BOV they could be old and split causing a leak as well.
06-01-09, 06:56 PM
#42
Now you know that most recent vcacuum diagram isnt complete. You cant just tear out everything till you have whats there in the pic. You still need the first vac diagram from page 1. With the UIM already off like it is, you need to replace the stock rubber vac lines. If you dont, it will for sure come bite you in the ***.
If I were you, while you have the UIM off I would throughly test each and every vac solenoid under there with a mity vac. Make sure you do the real test and heat them up in the oven also to make sure they work under operating temps. There are numerous write ups on how to test the solenoids.
From the pic you posted of the engine bay you are still using the stock charge piping couplers, which is fine, but they are know to fail from all the heat under the hood. Make sure you test them first, followed by each rubber pipe on the charge piping tract.
The one other thing that has been known to happen, kinda rarely, but does happen, is the turbo inlet pipes will crush under the suction of the turbos pulling air though them, thus limiting boost and making funny noises. Just something to keep in mind if none of the above works.
Oh yea, one more thing. Tell your cousin to BTFU off your car. Thats instant family ban in my book.
If I were you, while you have the UIM off I would throughly test each and every vac solenoid under there with a mity vac. Make sure you do the real test and heat them up in the oven also to make sure they work under operating temps. There are numerous write ups on how to test the solenoids.
From the pic you posted of the engine bay you are still using the stock charge piping couplers, which is fine, but they are know to fail from all the heat under the hood. Make sure you test them first, followed by each rubber pipe on the charge piping tract.
The one other thing that has been known to happen, kinda rarely, but does happen, is the turbo inlet pipes will crush under the suction of the turbos pulling air though them, thus limiting boost and making funny noises. Just something to keep in mind if none of the above works.
Oh yea, one more thing. Tell your cousin to BTFU off your car. Thats instant family ban in my book.
06-01-09, 07:35 PM
#44
Where does this bolt go?
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You can do this. Do you have the FSM? If not you can download from a link on this site. Follow the diagram check every hose. Be careful around the solenoids as they can be fragile. Use the mity vac to test hoses going to actuators. You can also remove the hood and have a friend drive while you hang on to the front bumper and try to pinpoint where the sound is coming from. Just kidding. Good luck.
06-01-09, 10:24 PM
#46
If you end up pressurizing the system from the brake booster, a spray bottle of soapy water is your best friend. Spray it on anything that could leak and if you see bubbles you've found your problem. Sometimes without it you can hear the leak but you can't feel it.
06-02-09, 01:29 AM
#47
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so ive done everything that the people have said and looked up how to do the vacuum test but the thing is i would have to have the car back together to do it. and not to mention i think the guy that installed my engine messed up on the solenoids because as slocalsvt stated the aqua line is the orange solenoid well my blue solenoid is hooked up to where the orange one is. so im assuming that the guy that but my car together didnt know what he was doing. and i was looking at my bills from when i had the engine installed and i have all new hoses where the "rats nest" is and they all came from mazda. and i guess i bought some other hoses too. but all my replacement parts came from mazda. and yes me and my cousin are not on good terms right now lol i say he should help pay to get it put back together and he doesnt seem to agree.
and thanks FixableUnknown for the encouraging and motivating words. but im mostly scared to get that in depth with the motor that i think would be needed to fix it. i might make it worse, or inadvertently do something to damage it more or make it more work for someone id have to pay to help me fix it.
and thanks FixableUnknown for the encouraging and motivating words. but im mostly scared to get that in depth with the motor that i think would be needed to fix it. i might make it worse, or inadvertently do something to damage it more or make it more work for someone id have to pay to help me fix it.
06-02-09, 02:52 AM
#50
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Because of idling problems, i decided to change the vacuum hoses for myself. After a while, i thought i cant put that hoses correct together, so i gave my car to a "self declaimed" FD professional - what a big mistake.
I mean yes, i put the car back together but i ran terrible after that and he broke screwheads off and brought me much more troubles.
When i had the car back, i decided to try it again and if you have the repair manual AND the diagramm from the first side ( which is the most important part here ), it is still doable.
But you need time and dont get angry if somethings not clear. But i can tell you, i would do it again, because i learned a lot from "do it myself".
regards
Andi
I mean yes, i put the car back together but i ran terrible after that and he broke screwheads off and brought me much more troubles.
When i had the car back, i decided to try it again and if you have the repair manual AND the diagramm from the first side ( which is the most important part here ), it is still doable.
But you need time and dont get angry if somethings not clear. But i can tell you, i would do it again, because i learned a lot from "do it myself".
regards
Andi