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Old Mar 20, 2007 | 02:25 PM
  #1  
fd3ETTY's Avatar
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From: St. petersburg, Florida
Boost Issue Possibly

Well i've had the car for 4 months now and its driving pretty well!But i threw on a boost gauge earlier today to check the boost and it was a shitty gauge but none the less it was a gauge...
so hooked it up and noticed it was off big time but noticed a reasonable pattern but when the boost would drop around 4000 it would stay dropped...
anyone know what this meanS?
is my second turbo even kicking in?
im gunna use my friends boost gauge its the stock one off his wrx and see how that works but yeah any help would be great also if you guys could tell me other things to look for that be great too...
as of now my boost would be if it was accurate..10-8-LOW ha but yeah thanks
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Old Mar 20, 2007 | 02:46 PM
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Monkman33's Avatar
Goodfalla Engine Complete
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sounds like your secondary isn't coming online at all...
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Old Mar 20, 2007 | 03:41 PM
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if ur secondary is kicking in ull feel it....after 4500 my car feels like i almost downshifted
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Old Mar 20, 2007 | 11:27 PM
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hmm yeah on my way home i lost the cap to cap off where the boost gauges plugs into and so i left it uncapped i was mad and didnt care! so on the ride home my oil pressure for once is working right! i was like OH **** thne i pull out of the neighboor hood and the car has this HUGE PUNCH to it im like OHHH **** then im like ok well how about going throught the gears so the car flys!!!!!!!!!!!!! down the road fastest ive ever felt it go i was like **** but onl problem is it doesnt idle right it sits at 11 rpms and bounces between 1100 and 1400 its so annoying help!?
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Old Mar 21, 2007 | 12:48 AM
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Have you done a silicone vacuum hose change yet? If not, its time to do it. I had the same problems with no boost from secondaries. Once I did the change, it was like driving a brand new car w/ zero boost issues!
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Old Mar 21, 2007 | 08:18 AM
  #6  
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thats actually what im planning this weekend thanks man i was hopin it had to deal with those if anything so we shall see!
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Old Mar 21, 2007 | 09:50 AM
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While you're in there...

you can.....

eliminate aws, egr, and all the useless solenoids, butterflies, send injectors out for cleaning, change fpd, get jdm y-pipe and crossover, eliminate airpump

It's a '4 hour job' but trust me, it will take longer than that. Get some long needle nose pliers, and hose pullers too.

Some leave the rats nest intact on the car while doing the job, I tried that and I wind up taking it out which made it 100x easier to pull hoses off the solenoids. The philip screws holding down the rats nest will most likely have their heads stripped when removing them, so you'll also need Craftsman Bolt-Off set to take them off.

Yea I'm telling you need to do this because I can foresee the near future of setbacks

Its nice seeing how all that crap works though, goodluck.
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Old Mar 21, 2007 | 10:04 AM
  #8  
fd3ETTY's Avatar
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From: St. petersburg, Florida
yeah i've had a nice look at it earlier when replacing my ignition coils and replacin a few of the hoses

can you explain the "eliminate aws""and all the useless solenoids, butterflies""change fpd"
whats the aws and what useless solenoids ? also what are these butterfly things and the fdp what does that thing do and where cna i get a replacement
-??

i was planning on doin the egr elimination the y pipe i wanna do later on when i have the cash for it
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Old Mar 21, 2007 | 10:22 AM
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Oh boy! there is a site somewhere.. maybe in the helpful links thread, that shows step by step on all the hoses. I wish i saw that site before I started mine but quite an experience. And now I can say I've done it :P

You'll need block-off plates when eliminating most of those things.
AWS is the advanced warm up system that fires up your car to 3k while cranking your car on. Thats not very good..
Removing the butterflies in the UIM will provide better airflow, tho you have to remember not to floor the car until it is fully warmed up. It was there to limit your throttle before the car was up to working temperature.
FPD is the fuel pulsation damper, is what usually fails in high mileage cars (which are all the cars now) and cause engine fires.

You can get the FPD from malloy or mazdatrix or your local mazda stealership.

I'm not 100% sure, but I think you can eliminate the EGR by removing the airpump. I dont remember anymore.

Do lots of research before you start, you can probably search my name and see me ranting during my project. There are a ton of threads on this very subject. But definitely do your share of due diligence else we'll be hearing you rant as well, spare us!!
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Old Mar 21, 2007 | 10:34 AM
  #10  
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oh i have im just not familiar with all the abbrviations haha yeah i know all about the aws and the butterflies up in the throttle body i was thinkin about that doesnt seem too rough i was tryin to figure out the fpd on here and i cant figure out what the hell it does thanks for you help man i got my weekend cut out for me ! damn this sucks i wanted to catch up on some rest oh well!
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