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Boost fine, power delivery=bad (Picture included)

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Old Nov 8, 2003 | 10:08 AM
  #1  
Pwantwan's Avatar
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From: UK
Boost fine, power delivery=bad (Picture included)

Hi guys,

You've all been amazingly helpful in the past, I've check the search threads on this but can't seem to find the solution:

My car boosts fine up to .70, but even though the turbo runs fine, there really is not much power delivery, like the turbo's hardly having much effect, also, when changing gears, it takes a couple of seconds for the Turbo to spool up to .70 bars again, and once it reaches there, it tends to drop slowly to .66ish.

I did notice some oil around one of the Intercooler pipes, mainly at the bottom of this pipe, here's a picture (rounded in yellow where I notice the leak), could this be a reason? I've heard it's ok to have a little leaking here? Any advice would be greatly appreciated.



Thanks guys!!

Pt.
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Old Nov 8, 2003 | 11:18 AM
  #2  
FormerPorscheGuy's Avatar
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From: The Houston Club's Resident Lush.
Replace the coupler and the clamp.
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Old Nov 8, 2003 | 02:03 PM
  #3  
SleepR1's Avatar
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From: IN
Re: Boost fine, power delivery=bad (Picture included)

Originally posted by Pwantwan
My car boosts fine up to .70, but even though the turbo runs fine, there really is not much power delivery, like the turbo's hardly having much effect, also, when changing gears, it takes a couple of seconds for the Turbo to spool up to .70 bars again, and once it reaches there, it tends to drop slowly to .66ish.

I did notice some oil around one of the Intercooler pipes, mainly at the bottom of this pipe, here's a picture (rounded in yellow where I notice the leak), could this be a reason? I've heard it's ok to have a little leaking here? Any advice would be greatly appreciated.



Thanks guys!!

Pt.
Basically your problem falls under "Poor Acceleration" and "Lack Of Power".

The '93 Rx7 shop manual defines "poor acceleration" as engine speed that increases but vehicle speed slowly increases during acceleration.

The manual suggests checking:

1. Fuel injectors (leakage or clog)
2. Pressure regulator
3. Fuel filter (clogged)
4. Spark plugs
5. Igniter (poor connection of connector)
6. Air leakage in intake
7. Pressure sensor (pressure sensor filter hose clogged, or poor connection of connector)
8. Crank angle sensor (poor conncection)
9. Metering oil pump (oil pump malfunction--fuel injection and ignition timing fixed)
10. Solenoid valves (Turbo control, charge control malfuction)
11. EGR control system (EGR control valve stuck open)
12. Water thermosensor (malfunction)
13. Double throttle control system

The manual defines "lack of power" as poor performance under load.

The manual suggests checking:

1. Pressure sensor (malfunction)
2. Secondary fuel injector (poor connection of injector or clogged nozzle)
3. Turbo boost leak
4. Spark plugs
5. Throttle sensor (full range)
6. Fuel filter (clogged)
7. Pressure regulator (malfunction)
8. Double throttle control system (double throttle valve not open)
9. Sequential twin turbo control system (secondary port not open)
10. EGR control system (EGR valve stuck open)
11. Air filter (clogged)
12. Catalytic converter (clogged)
13. Fuel low octane
14. Metering oil pump (poor connection of connector)

Good luck!
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Old Nov 8, 2003 | 02:30 PM
  #4  
Pwantwan's Avatar
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From: UK
Excellent, thanks so much for your help, I'll get all these things checked over the next week and keep you informed of what they say, thanks.

Pt.
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Old Nov 8, 2003 | 03:56 PM
  #5  
RTS3GEN's Avatar
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Tenured Member 10 Years
 
Joined: Aug 2001
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From: Lee's Summit Mo.
Pwantwan, is this a new problem or something that has gotten worse with time. If it is a new problem is it sporadic or consistant. The reason I ask is if it has just started doing this and the weather is getting cold, the car may not be warming up enough and therefore keeping the timing from advancing. I know the US spec stock and upgraded plug in ecu's use a temperature default of 177 Degree's F(about 82C). If the engine temperature doesn't reach this when you give it full throttle, the ecu will pull timing and actually only allow default(or about 6-7psi )boost. If temperature isn't the issue than follow your earlier suggestions in the thread. This is an often overlooked problem especially in winter and colder weather.
art
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Old Nov 8, 2003 | 06:32 PM
  #6  
FDjunkie's Avatar
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From: Bartlesville, OK.
Your description sounds like what happened to me with a boost leak. I've had two cases where one of the stock rubber coupling developed a leak and both time the turbos could still build full boost. It just took a little longer for the boost to build and the car seems sluggish. I could hear the the leak at boost levels over about 5 PSI. Fixed the leak and all went back to normal.
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