Boost drop from 6000rpm to redline (searched)
#26
rotorhead
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It's definitely a closed loop system, says so in the service highlights page F-25:
And it's gear-based, says in the SAE paper I referenced in the other thread.
The few people who do know where the ROM addresses are (at least some of them) are not talking. Unfortunately it's not an open tuning platform like a lot of chip-burning cars from this era, including domestics and Hondas.
And it's gear-based, says in the SAE paper I referenced in the other thread.
The few people who do know where the ROM addresses are (at least some of them) are not talking. Unfortunately it's not an open tuning platform like a lot of chip-burning cars from this era, including domestics and Hondas.
#28
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Problem solved: I installer an ebay mbc I have as spare(two pieces: a "T" with a built-in ball and sprin and the adjustable leak venting to the atmosphere) to the wg actuator blocking the line which goes to the wg control solenoid and took the boost signal directly from the extension manifold, so the boost is controlled totally with the mbc. Btw checked the primary turbo and it is in perfect condition.
With the mbc totally closed I got 9 psi all the way since the primary tc is boosting until redline.
Half a turn gives 11.5 - 9 - 12 in second gear, 11.5 - 9 - 12.5 in 3rd gear and 11.5 - 9 -13 in 4th gear all until redline.
I am not going to mess with the precontrol pill because I am comfortable with this transition although it could be better, but the higher the secondary turbo is pushing before it comes in the more time it is surging thus creating heat. Also, my ppwerband is much wider now so it is not going to fall below 4500rpm after shifting at peak power.
Thanks a lot for your help I have learn important things about this car with your replies
With the mbc totally closed I got 9 psi all the way since the primary tc is boosting until redline.
Half a turn gives 11.5 - 9 - 12 in second gear, 11.5 - 9 - 12.5 in 3rd gear and 11.5 - 9 -13 in 4th gear all until redline.
I am not going to mess with the precontrol pill because I am comfortable with this transition although it could be better, but the higher the secondary turbo is pushing before it comes in the more time it is surging thus creating heat. Also, my ppwerband is much wider now so it is not going to fall below 4500rpm after shifting at peak power.
Thanks a lot for your help I have learn important things about this car with your replies
Last edited by javi174; 05-04-17 at 01:04 PM.
#30
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Yes thats it. Also I took the boost signal for the wg from the extension manifold after the pressure losses of the intake from the turbo, thats why I think without the mbc bleeding it hold 9 psi instead of the 7psi of the wg spring. Car pushes great, although intercooler is hotter than before, I think I have to make a cai for the hks filters or go back to the stock airbox and fix it with better materials. Also I want it to look as stock as possible so thinking about some kind of fan for the intercooler of better ducting...
#32
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When bought 2 months ago it was having ignition break up from 6500rpm so I checked all the coils and the leading one was a little bit sulphated where the L1 wire plugs into. Eventhough the resistance was ok I swapped a spare leading coil in, changed all plugs and ignition wires and regrounded the coils and the whole car. The problem went away but I also installed the hks twin power just in case. Now I am seeking for time to mount the fc leading coil also
The car runs fine, I can feel a progressive lose in torque at high rpm but I think it is normal although a turboed fc with stock na ports and stock s4 turbo with pre and post water injection pushes always strong until 8000rpm without torque falling.
I am curious to get the fd dynoed to check if it looks ok or not and where the peak power is because I feel like 6500rpm could be the shifting point and with the flow mods it should be at higher rpm probably
The car runs fine, I can feel a progressive lose in torque at high rpm but I think it is normal although a turboed fc with stock na ports and stock s4 turbo with pre and post water injection pushes always strong until 8000rpm without torque falling.
I am curious to get the fd dynoed to check if it looks ok or not and where the peak power is because I feel like 6500rpm could be the shifting point and with the flow mods it should be at higher rpm probably
#34
Rotary Freak
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I'm chasing a similar problem, but with an older style greddy profect B controller. Car is fully modded for seq twins. Relevant mods are:
- M2 Style intake with clean filters
- Greddy / M2 Medium SMIC
- 99 spec twins and y pipe
- Unknown HF cat (pettit or bonez?)
- RB single tip exhaust
- 1300 secondaries
- XS engineering ignition
- Double throttle disabled / plates remain
Boost is ~14 psi until 4500, then 12 at the transition, then 14 until 6500, then a distinct drop to ~10 psi.
I've been playing with the profec settings and pushed the drop from ~6000 rpms until around ~6500+ rpms, but it's still an obvious drop off.
I think that the M2 intake may be restrictive, and I'll start my testing there. But, given that i was able to tweak it with the profec, it could be just boost control / solenoid related.
Any ideas are welcome.
I'll post what I find as I dig into it.
- M2 Style intake with clean filters
- Greddy / M2 Medium SMIC
- 99 spec twins and y pipe
- Unknown HF cat (pettit or bonez?)
- RB single tip exhaust
- 1300 secondaries
- XS engineering ignition
- Double throttle disabled / plates remain
Boost is ~14 psi until 4500, then 12 at the transition, then 14 until 6500, then a distinct drop to ~10 psi.
I've been playing with the profec settings and pushed the drop from ~6000 rpms until around ~6500+ rpms, but it's still an obvious drop off.
I think that the M2 intake may be restrictive, and I'll start my testing there. But, given that i was able to tweak it with the profec, it could be just boost control / solenoid related.
Any ideas are welcome.
I'll post what I find as I dig into it.