3rd Generation Specific (1993-2002) 1993-2002 Discussion including performance modifications and Technical Support Sections.

Bnr stage 3 twins issue please see.

Old 10-12-17, 07:39 PM
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Unhappy Bnr stage 3 twins issue please see. SOLVED

Ok to start off just about everything has been bolted up and torqued with all new gaskets. The issue that I was having, I could not get that fking Infini y pipe mounted if my life depended on it. I just could not get the y pipe aligned to all four studs. It wasn't by much and so I got the bright idea to get it to aligne to the studs was to open up the two stud holes on the front portion of the y pipe. Hopefully It doesn't come back and bite me in the rear end. Now when I went to install the crossover pipe on the Infini y pipe it seams to me that the twins were clocked incorrectly by bnr. The crossover pipe will not clear the thermostat housing/coolant fill (see pics). I did see another thread were another member was having an issue with just the y pipe itself. It was way off and Brian from bnr did comment that when he gets the factory twins in to get modified he marks them to keep the right orientation before disassembly then when reassembled they are clocked to factory. But he mention that if people did mess with the twins before shipping them to him that he would just marked them and reassembled them the same way that they came in. It's be on me why bnr doesn't verify the correct orientation and clock them before shipping them. What do you guys think clocking issue? How about all the gaskets? If I have to remove them in order to clock them correctly, will I still be able to reuse all my gaskets. Thanks in advanced
Attached Thumbnails Bnr stage 3 twins issue please see.-img_4475.jpg   Bnr stage 3 twins issue please see.-img_4476.jpg   Bnr stage 3 twins issue please see.-img_4477.jpg  

Last edited by existanzrx7; 11-08-17 at 07:42 PM. Reason: Solved
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Old 10-12-17, 09:42 PM
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Ok now I am a little confused. I just read a thread that said that it is possible to clock the twins on the car via the snap ring. Is that possible? I read a bunch of post that said you have to remove them and loosen six bolts on each turbo and then you can clock them. Which method is right or are they both right?
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Old 10-12-17, 09:49 PM
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Did you send out the rear part of the y pipe to BNR?
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Old 10-12-17, 09:50 PM
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Don't clock anything just yet, most likely your y pipe is the issue and the clocking is correct.
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Old 10-13-17, 12:51 AM
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Definitely looks like clocking to me.

Assuming they're the 255/265 hp turbos, the compressor housings will be held with a big circlip. If you carefully use a bit of force, you can normally rotate them without getting out the circlip pliers. Normally a bit of high temperature orange silastic is used in the assembly too which might provide a bit of resistance initially.
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Old 10-13-17, 12:56 AM
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You have to clock the compressor housing by loosen up the 6 bolts.
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Old 10-13-17, 08:11 AM
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Originally Posted by Moe Greene View Post
Did you send out the rear part of the y pipe to BNR?
Correct me if I am wrong. But no i did not that part of the y pipe does not get modified.
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Old 10-13-17, 08:16 AM
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Originally Posted by billyboy View Post
Definitely looks like clocking to me.

Assuming they're the 255/265 hp turbos, the compressor housings will be held with a big circlip. If you carefully use a bit of force, you can normally rotate them without getting out the circlip pliers. Normally a bit of high temperature orange silastic is used in the assembly too which might provide a bit of resistance initially.
I do believe that my self i also think it's a clocking issue. So they can be clocked via the c clip? A lot of members say to undo the six bolts. The bnr's are there newest version. Thanks
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Old 10-13-17, 09:25 AM
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Originally Posted by existanzrx7 View Post
Correct me if I am wrong. But no i did not that part of the y pipe does not get modified.
Unless something has changed since when I bought BNRs (about 10 years ago) you *will* need to modify the y-pipe where the rear section slips into the front section. IIRC the pipe needs to be extended by approx 1/2". I could be wrong though, since it's been a while since I had/looked at a y-pipe.

Definitely looks like a clocking issue though!
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Old 10-13-17, 10:51 AM
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Nothing has changed. I bought a set last year and sent my y pipe in.

EDIT: There's a pic of the modified y pipe in this thread.
https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generati...-pipe-1099795/

Last edited by Natey; 10-13-17 at 10:57 AM.
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Old 10-13-17, 11:03 AM
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Originally Posted by Natey View Post
Nothing has changed. I bought a set last year and sent my y pipe in.

EDIT: There's a pic of the modified y pipe in this thread.
https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generati...-pipe-1099795/
So yea only the bigger y pipe peace gets modified. Not the rear smaller peace
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Old 10-13-17, 11:13 AM
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Imagine where everything will be orientated once you add that inch or so to the other side of the pipe.

BNR wouldn't spend the time and money to pay for modding and shipping everyone's Y-pipe if it wasn't necessary.

GLWInstall!
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Old 10-13-17, 11:14 AM
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Ok just got off the phone with Brian over a Bnr. I am a little worried. He told me that I did not need to losen anything to clock them just to stick a pry bar in the y pipe and pry it to get it to were I need 😨😱.
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Old 10-13-17, 12:47 PM
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^^ Right.
This will rotate the Aluminum compressor housings which are held onto the cast iron turbo center section with the circlips.

I would be careful what I pried on and what I pried with so as not to damage parts, but constant firm force will probably move the compressor housings better/safer than a whacks with a rubber mallet.

You do not want to take loosen any bolts and re-clock the centers as some have suggested in this thread if your oil and water lines are already aligned and mounted up- doing so would rotate the cast iron turbo center section as well as the Aluminum compressor section.

Here is a picture of the twins that shows the Aluminum compressor housings held onto the turbo center sections with the circlips and grooves. If they are freshly assembled and there is no silicone sealant in there they may rotate fairly easily. If they have been run on the car or a hardening sealant was used, it could be quite a chore to get them to rotate.
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Old 10-13-17, 03:41 PM
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The cast iron bolted sections should have centrepunch marks for alignment done at disassembly, so I'd avoid loosening those.

If the oil drains and water feed line up ok without stress, you know it's the compressors anyhow. I wouldn't be too worried moving them, unless a touch hamfisted.
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Old 10-13-17, 05:24 PM
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I had the same issue, but less severe than your pic shows. I drilled out the crossover pipe holes as big as i could so that I could rotate the crossover pipe about 10 deg or so. I also clamped the IC coupler down with the pipe uninstalled, so that it compresses it. Otherwise, the extra thickness of the coupler would hit the filler neck. I did this because the compressor housing didnít rotate easily (I didnít know that I was supposed to use a pry bar to re-clock them, and I didnít want to remove them).

Whatís interesting is that after my first few test drives, the cross over pipe seemed too move into a better position by itself (away from the filler neck). My theory is that the heat loosened up the housings and tension on the pipe (from who knows where) slightly rotated the housings to an equilibrium.
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Old 10-13-17, 07:24 PM
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Not a big fan of taking prybars to turbos, those two terms don't mix well in my vocabulary. If at all avoidable, do so.

Next time I speak to Bryan I'll be sure to break his ***** over this, ideally they'd ship without this problem. He's an awesome dude, honest and hardworking---- not as common as you'd think around these parts. Humble too. He just needs to clock the damn compressor housings properly before sending them out
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Old 10-13-17, 10:54 PM
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Smile

As always thanks guys for the help. The pry bar method worked and it didn't take that much effort. I am so glad it worked because I installed all new gaskets and everything was torqued down and in the car. I didn't have to undo anything just put some old rags to protect around the y pipe and used a torque bar since it doesn't have any sharp edges like a pry bar and it worked.
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Old 10-13-17, 11:02 PM
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Using a torque bar was a good idea, glad you got it sorted, now let us know how those BNRs feel after throwing some boost at them
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