Moe Greene

iTrader: (2)

Hi Everyone,

After my car started to smoke about a month ago I decided to pull the car into the garage and start my rebuild.
I would like to keep the car "stock" so I was looking at the BNR Stage 3 Turbo Upgrade. From all the threads I have read it seems like most people agree that for the cost of 99+ spec turbos its better to just go BNR Stage 3 Turbo Upgrade. Please correct me if I'm wrong but is it true that their are a few "versions" of the BNR stg 3 turbos?
It seems that the consensus in the "older" threads is that the BNR stg 3 turbos are a terrible upgrade... and in the more recent threads the BNR stg 3 turbos are praised as the best upgrade.
Please chime in with your thoughts about the upgrade.

Q: Car is 100% stock besides a fuel pump upgrade, downpipe, and catback with that said do I need a upgraded ECU to run the BNR Stage 3 Turbo Upgrade?

Q: How does the adjustable wastegate actuator work on the BNR stg 3 turbos? (Props to whoever can get a photo of the adjustable wastegate actuator)

Q: Would I be able to run catless midpipe and adjust the wastegate actuator so that I don't creep past 10 psi?

Q: What is the best place to purchase the BNR Stage 3 Turbo upgrade? (I was going to go with rx7store.net)

GoodfellaFD3S

iTrader: (213)

A lot comes down to your power goals really. The '99 spec twins are getting harder to find, and work well up to a certain power/boost level. At the end of the day they're OEM turbos.

Among other advantages the BNRs have the option of a larger internal wastegate to try and minimize boost creep. If your FD has a lot of intake/exhaust flow mods then you may still find your boost won't hold to 10 psi though.

Khan Racing

iTrader: (2)

Q1: Technically no, but it's highly recommended to get the most out of your current mods and be on the safe side.

Q2: Will provide pics later today. I know that they come preset. And ive used a mac boost solenoid to control boost.

Q3: Seems like every car has different results. In my personal car i'm running the BNR Stage 3+ sequential. I have a DP, catless midpipe, and cat-back and haven't experienced boost creep as the wastegate is ported on the BNRs. I also run adaptronics which i control boost through via mac solenoid and provides safety features in event of overboost.

Q4: We are club sponsors and carry BNR products. We can get you the best deals possible. Contact us for more info either here or at sales@khan-racing.com

IRPerformance

iTrader: (41)

For a reliable 320-330 hp, the 99s work great. However they do not really make any more power than the 93-95 twins and actually tend to fail prematurely when run at more than 12-13psi.


If you like more power than that, you can go with the SP version of the 99 twins. They have larger wheels and flow more. The nice thing is they are still an oem part. Some say they outflow the BNRs but I have yet to see an unbiased back to back test.

BNRs are great for a solid 350-380whp. I've done over 400whp with them on multiple cars and people have done more than that at higher boost levels. They have dynoed higher than any other twins available. There is only one current version. There have been some minor changes throughout they years but the newest are the best. The wastegate actuator is adjustable for preload and travel. It is not intended to change the boost level. You can use the stock control system or an aftermarket controller.

I can get you either of these turbos significantly cheaper than listed.

Regardless of your turbo choice, you will run out of fuel around 300whp. Yes people have pushed it further, but I like to leave a safety margin. You will have to keep the boost down (depending on your turbo choice) Or at minimum upgrade the secondary fuel rail and injectors.

With any of these turbos you should get an ecu and tune by a professional turner. The only thing you could get away with (and I don't recommend it) is with the 99 twins and keep the boost at stock levels. A Power FC is easiest and most cost effective for your setup.

cib24

Nice informative post. In your experience are the BNRs now trouble free? If you look into older threads on BNRs you often read about oil leaks, failed oil seals, etc. at very low miles.

And in your opinion, how do the very hard to find Knight Sports RF420s compare to stock, 99 spec and BNR Stage 3s? Just for comparison purposes.

Thanks.

IRPerformance

iTrader: (41)

Some of the earlier versions of the BNRs had issues with oil getting past the seals. This has been long resolved. Most issues can be attributed to an improperly vented crank case or other issue, not the turbos themselves.

I haven't had my hands on the Knightsports turbos, but because of price and lack of parts availability, I would stay away.

cib24

Thanks. When you are referring to parts availability, are you implying that rebuilding a set of Knight Sports turbos would be problematic as the parts are more bespoke than what any turbo repair shop could order in?

Fair enough point though that it is better to stick to what is readily available although any real world comparisons against the four sets of twins would have been pretty cool.

IRPerformance

iTrader: (41)

A lot of the Japanese turner turbos are difficult to get parts for. BNRs are built from genuine Garrett components which are readily available.

mpk490p

I have some BNR's on a street port motor, made 377 @ 12psi couldnt get any more boost because the wastegate actuator was opening, i understand this can be adjusted though? also looking a MAC solenoid as i'm still using stock at the mo