3rd Generation Specific (1993-2002) 1993-2002 Discussion including performance modifications and Technical Support Sections.
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Better to just buy an already built motor?

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Old Dec 22, 2009 | 12:24 PM
  #26  
no_more_rice's Avatar
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RX-7 World in SC built my 3 mm engine and I'm very happy with it.....reasonable rates, too....I'd never hire someone in overpriced, overtaxed CA to do anything
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Old Dec 22, 2009 | 12:44 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by HardHitter
If I were to just pickup a built rotary engine, how much do you guys think my engine would sell for? Although it has low compression, the rotors are milled for 3mm, basically brand new rotor housings, streetported and the whole engine only has 2K on it and I have all receipts of the build from the previous owner. I'm trying to figure how much I'd save of just swapping motors out and selling my current one.
Without cracking it open to know the exact damage, about $1000 as that's basically what a core charge is for Mazda. You'll make more money by disassembling it and parting it out (as buyers will know the parts are good).
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Old Dec 22, 2009 | 01:40 PM
  #28  
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I really want to pull the motor/engine myself. I think that will save a lot as far as labor cost, but more importantly, it's going to help me in the long run being able to know how to remove it and learning a lot more about the car since I'm not planning on leaving this one.

Is there a DIY or anything around here for me to follow as far as what to do for removing the engine?
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Old Dec 22, 2009 | 01:54 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by HardHitter
Is there a DIY or anything around here for me to follow as far as what to do for removing the engine?
Its really not that hard the first time i removed a FD engine i was 16 years old(by myself), took me like 2 days.

Just disassemble the block remove intercooler, piping, turbo, harness, coolant hoses etc.

The hardest part is removing the tranny and dealing with vacuum hoses but there are diagrams for that.
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Old Dec 22, 2009 | 02:05 PM
  #30  
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Yea it doesn't seem like there is much to it, it's just I have pretty limited time. I work 9 to 6:30 minimum every day and I am usually exhausted after the day to do anything. My clients year end is coming up so I'll be working 14-16 hour days for the next 2 months pretty soon.

The good thing about that I guess you can say is going to be building up more mod money
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Old Dec 22, 2009 | 02:18 PM
  #31  
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Yah just do it step by step, take your time and make sure you remember where everything goes when you reassemble...

For example....

Couple hours a day
Day1-Drain fluids, remove piping, intercooler and turbos
Day2-Disconnect wire harness(engine and tranny)
Day3-Undo all the mounts(tranny and motor) and pull the engine
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Old Dec 22, 2009 | 02:34 PM
  #32  
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Arrow

http://www.rotaryresurrection.com/3rdgen/techmenu.html
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Old Dec 22, 2009 | 02:51 PM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by GoodfellaFD3S
I meant 'premix in addition to your working OMP.' Thicker seals cause more friction..... add 4-6 ounces premix (i like idemitsu, www.rx7.com sells it) to each tank.
Gotcha, thanks for the head's up!

Originally Posted by Mahjik
http://www.rotaryresurrection.com/3rdgen/techmenu.html
Nice! That'll really help with my upcoming swap

If I'm reading the page correctly, I should be able to remove the stock flywheel/counterweight from my existing motor and bolt it up to the new motor without worrying about weights/balance problems, right?
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Old Dec 22, 2009 | 02:53 PM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by djseven
If people wouldnt blow $800-1000.00 for bridge/half bridge porting and spend that money on a water/meth kit and a quality tune I think they would be better off.

That's going in my signature.
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Old Dec 22, 2009 | 03:08 PM
  #35  
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Contact Kevin Landers with Rotaryresurrection.com as he sells DVDs with a step by step picture tutorial on how to remove an engine from an FD. My pm offer still stands of helping you over the phone anytime you run into a tough spot.
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