As the subject says... looking for the best cold air intake system made for a 94. Don't really want to spend a fortune, but don't want to put something on that's going to draw in a bunch of hot air either...

Thanks
Chuck

 

the m2 is the best....

the pettit looks ghetto and home made.....but it works very very well.


j

 

Ok, what about N Tech? Are they still in production? The site says they're not...

Thanks
Chuck

 

Best Cold Air intake can be bought at Home Depot. Before I got my Geo Turbo'd I built my own intake at Home Depot for under 40 bucks.

 

Pettit's looks very simple but is the best one from a functional standpoint. It allows cooler fresh air to flow over and past the filters and into the engine bay instead of trapping it in a box. This way it always has a steady stream of fresh air to suck in.

N-Tech's is also a very nice unit, but I do believe it is out of production.

 

Pettit it is! Thanks guys.

Chuck

 

i have the pettit and i like it....it does make some strange sounds sometimes, like a moo or something.....

 

There is no such thing as a cold air intake. I guarentee you no matter what you buy the air going into that engine is not cold. Unless it's 30 degrees outside. Get some K & N's and call it a day. Don't fall for this load of BS about needing a box for "colder air flow"

 

That would be the wonderful airpump that you're hearing. The silencers do a pretty good job of quieting it down. Take the hose from the airpump to the intake off sometime and rev the car, you'll see how loud it really is. If you ever run a midpipe it'll go away because you can just unplug or remove the airpump.

Ryan

 

I have the CWC cold air intake. I like it. I know one person who removed the M2 intake because they were having problems with the filters coming off.

My CWC is not as sealed as the M2 but it has never shead a filter and I've just used Aluminum duct tape to seal up gaps.

Interesting assertion by Fd3boost. Can you elaborate?

Yeah mooing is definately the air pump.

The ARC air box looks nice. Is it a cold air intake?

Pictures of the pedit Anyone?

 

I agree that the engine going into the engine will not be cold because the turbo will raise the temp of the intake air as it compresses it but I think the colder the air that you start with, the colder it should be by the time it reaches the engine (in theory anyways). Now in reality, according to my APEX'i PowerFC, the intake temps that I see now with my APEX'i intakes are only very slightly higher than when I still had my stock airbox which draws air from the front of the car. So it could be that the difference that the cold air box makes is very neglible for my setup. With my open intakes on the fwy here in CA, I'm seeing betweent 40C-45C when it's warm in the afternoon and between 37C-41C when it's fairly cool at night. With my stock airbox I saw very similar numbers. What kind of intake temps are people seeing with the cold air boxes?

 

Ok, now I get it. Just get a better IC. Thanks for the insight. As far as IC temps, with the stock IC I'm seeing about 4 or 5 degrees higher. I did just seal up a big hole in my IC duct so maybe temps will be lower now.

 

Does 4-5 degrees justify the $300-$400 bucks for the box? I usedto have a CWR intake which is totall junk BTW. Now I use a PFS intake. I think I coud have gotten away with just some K&N filters and ended up with the same results

 

Depends, do you want the engine bay to look good or ghetto? Also if you are going to upgrade to a larger IC, then you need another airbox than stock, it all depends on your needs and wants.

No you really do not need a$300~$400 intake, my car ran just fine with the stock setup.

 

I bought my R1 with the Pettit kit on it and seems to work fine but if it were stock I'd probably just do the $40.00 K&N mod the the stock set up and put the money I saved toward something else.

 

rx7fashion

has a well put together cold box...similar to m2, but build quality is far better

 

Maybe...but it's $500

I'm sure as hell not paying $500 for a sheet metal box and a couple filters.

 

LMAO!!!!!!!

You cant be serious? The 'cold air' name is not referring to the temperature of the air. Its just another name referring to a steady stream of FRESH air. THATS IT!

Just about every high performance motorcycle(and plenty of cars too) uses cold/ram air induction. Why? Cuz it works!

The only thing I will agree to is there is NO particular unit (that I know of) that does exactly that for the FD. Not even the M2. Im currently trying to find some time to make a duct I cld attach to the bottom of the unit, between the rad and frame to allow a better stream of FRESH air coming in than it uses now. Ofcourse I wld also need to place a gasket of some sort between the lid and box but then I cld say its the closest thing to true RAM/fresh air intake out there.....
As for the filters popping off, I havent had that problem yet....I think thats more of a fitment problem(installer) than anythng else.
The one thing I love about the M2 CAI is the room I now have in the engine bay.

Those of you playing with ur OEM set-up...... Take a look at that plastic unit that connects ur duct to the airbox itself. If you notice looking into the hole where the air comes in, it just a dead end. IMO airflow needs direction to run more efficiently if it slams into a wall it just stumbles and causes turbulence which makes it less efficient. I made a shield out of sheet metal and placed it inside that opening to help deflect the air in the right direction. LOL....not sure if it helped matters but it made me feel better knowing the air was traveling in the right direction now.

btw- I got my M2 for less than half the goin rate.....keep ur eyes open in the classifieds, you'd be surprised whats selling for decent prices.

 

I have an APEXi Dual intake for my '93. Was considering fashioning a "fresh air" intake to channel in some cooler air into the engine bay, by way of routing some pipes around the edge of the rad, or utilizing the extra oil cooler opening on the passenger's side and "scooping" air through there. Any thoughts on that?

Also, does a vented headlight REALLY do anything?

Thanks.

 

Yeah, I was curious about the vented headlight too...

Thanks
Chuck
BTW. Ordered the Pettit.

 

You're gonna eventually overheat your motor on hot days if you leave that foam off the radiator. There's a reason it's there. It's made to force air through the radiator before it enters the engine bay. If too much air goes AROUND it, it'll do 2 things: First, lessen the amount of air going through the radiator. Second, it'll build up higher pressure in the engine bay, disallowing even MORE air from coming through the radiator. Your engine will not like you for it.

Same story goes for the plastic underbody of the vehicle, it prevents air from going under the car then into the engine bay. Most air entering the engine bay is forced to enter through the radiator (which makes mr engine happy because he's cooler)

 

Yeah there is. The colder the air entering the intake cone, the denser it is, the more energy (heat) you can put into it before knocks occur, etc..

The way you do it is to get some air from NOT in the engine bay, somehow, I haven't worked on my TurboII long enough to find out how to do it on mine, and I haven't worked on a 3rd gen besides my friend's for more than a few minutes, so I don't know there. But on Hondas there's a hole in the engine bay that goes down into the fenderwell, and it can suck air from there. Only problem with that is it's fairly low down so if you hit a DEEP (and I mean DEEP puddle, you could suck air into your engine. So they make an air bypass valve for that occasion, it opens up when pressure drops real low in the intake tube (when water enters it) to prevent water from getting in your engine (which is baaaad).

If 20 degrees cooler air enters the intake cone, then it's gonna be (approximately) 20 degrees cooler going into the engine. That is a good thing.

 

the belief that warmer air increases the chance of detonation is complete B.S. the temp of air entering teh combustion chamber has a negligible effect on combustion temperatures. However cold air always makes more power. Primarly the A/F ration dictates the temperatures. Our cars have air intake temp sensors. Furthermore, wamrer air is less oxygen, thus a richer mixture. baically if there were no intaek temperature sensor, wamer air woudl decrease combustion temps, and reduce chances of detonation if anything. What you haev to watch out for is a huge drop in intake tempsbefore computer can compensate with more fuel.

I also bet that the temps of the pettit cold-air intake and M2 are the same when driving, porblemw ith open air intakes is that they get hot as hell when stopped.