Best Brakes?
 

I have old stock brakes. They are getting very very old. I want new ones. I don't have the much money so i was wondering of the options i have. My mechanic said to get Hawk pads and il be fine with that. Let me know your opinions
-Thanks

stock sized slotted rotors and either hawk hps (NOT hp+) or ebc greens, and stainless steel lines.

http://rx7.com/store/rx7/fdbrakes.html

Bönez Stage 1 Pads

I agree that new pads are probably the best inexpensive way to refresh the stock brakes- which are very good BTW. Although I would consider stock caliper rebuild kits and hardware kits. The rebuild kits are cheap and will refresh your seals, dust boots and clips. The hardware kits will give you new shims and pad clips. I splurged on cryo'd slotted rotors and Endless stainless steel brake lines and SSS pads (package deal at AutoRND), but these aren't really necessary and the less expensive (but not cheaper) pads mentioned above will work great. My brakes were missing shims on the rear, the front shims were heavily corroded and the right rear caliper had the wrong kind of pad clip jammed into place. My dust boots were in terrible shape (although my seals still looked good) and there was no evidence of brake grease anywhere in my brake system. Speaking of brake grease, I recommend Pastelub- not expensive and has ridiculously high temp ratings.
Note: For the front brake hardware kit get the 4-piston 2nd Gen kit, it is cheaper than the FD kit even though the hardware is exactly the same.

I personaly prefer hawk HP+ pads.

tripoint installed hawk pads on mine. seem to work ok. but next time I'll just go with the stock mazda.

Jeff

what are your guys opinion on Xdrilled and slotted rotors?

I bought RedStuf, anyone have opinions on them?

If you ever plan to hit the track (road course), never used drilled rotors. If you are only going to be on the streets, then it won't matter so just get whatever looks nice to you.

This what I run on my RX-7. No issues at all. More than enough brake for the streets and autocross.

Drilled rotors are perfectly fine. Why do you think every high end super car and sport bike, dirt bike anything with race in the name run them?

AMG Mercedes
BMW
Porsche
Bugati
Ferrari
Lamborghini
Noble
Masserati

Before you make such a claim please have facts.

Use high end components, personally I only use 2 piece drilled rotors.

Oh no, not this again.

EBC PADS and rotors all the way green stuff. ran them for a long time low dust no noise great stopping power

Haha, why does this always come up? When you track your car you will crack drilled rotors. Its that simple. If you can afford them go nuts.

https://www.rx7club.com/suspension-wheels-tires-brakes-20/more-drilled-vs-slotted-rotors-480084/

However, there is a difference from the aftermarket 'drilled' rotors verses the rotors 'cast' with the holes (like Porsche and other exotic cars use). Not the same thing.

Helpful info. to know, along with some other responses as well!

I am not interested in what some forum nazis on the net think about brakes. To claim drilled rotors are bad is just false and irate.

I have been in the racing industry my entire life and actually race motocross professionally. Now also moving into super bikes. I am only interested in what is race proven. There is a reason we run 2 piece drilled rotors. When I grab the front brakes with 2 fingers at 195mph into a corner I am confident my brakes work and do not crack. If they cracked that is a good way to become dead!

I am frankly just discussed over all the kids spreading misinformation and hear say from forums and some magazine about products and brakes and drilled holes. Sorry if you take this post personally but it’s an aggravation of a whole and not you. “and the fact im in a really bad mood lol”

The real fact is your brakes have failed and people notion drilled is bad because of misinformation on here and the direct fact they use cheep products and they failed. What the hell do you expect to happen? There is a reason a professional brake system costs between 40,000 and 175,000 dollars and your friend in the FD with 800$ brakes failed. Stop blaming the design and blame the individuals stupidity.

I couldn't stand the squealing, it drove me nuts. The excessive dust kind of sucked, but I removed the HP+'s from my FD b/c of the noise. I'm currently running EBC yellows with cryo'ed powerslot rotors and s/s lines and pretty happy with my setup. I need to flush the fluid though, it's pretty damn dirty :squint:

really lol. I like mine. I have run the EBC green and red and liked them. I have a heavy foot or I apply more solid force to my breaking and they do not squeal for me. The OEM pads on my RX-8 squeal more they drive me insane.

I have personally seen cross drilled rotors crack at track events. It's more than a simple "myth".
https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v..._Rotors001.jpg

Sorry, but it's not a "false and irate" statement. The reason that there is no instances of cracking with "drilled" rotors (actually, the majority of the motorcycle brake disc setups are not "drilled"; they are stamped stainless steel blanks that have the holes punched during manufacture) on motorcycles is because there is a huge difference in the amount of energy that must be bled off between a several thousand pound car and a 350-400 pound motorcycle. That energy gets converted to heat, and even with the comparatively huge size and thickness of car rotors, the amount of heat that an automobile disc must absorb dwarfs that of motorcycle. This is why ceramic matrix discs have found their way onto production cars, but still haven't been used on production sportbikes.

The reason you see holes in many high-end car discs is because-- as was previously mentioned-- the discs were cast that way.

There have been way too many instances of stress cracking with drilled rotors on cars that see heavy track use, FD or otherwise. And they weren't "cheap" products, either.

Well yea taking a drill and boring a hole in the rotor is retarded. When I classify a drilled rotor it is grouping a rotor with holes into it such as a drill like hole and not slots.

I only used bikes because it is a profession I am in not limiting myself to cars or automotive racing.

The main reason behind the brakes lasting is they are 2 piece brakes and not single. No high end brake will be a single cast setup. That is for street use drilled or not and will fail on the track.

Well, motorcycles are my primary profession, but I try and keep up with cars and automotive racing as much as possible...

There are plenty of single cast disc setups on cars that don't fail under heavy track use...

This thread is going to get intresting. stay tuned!

That’s not what I said. Anyways im done before this gets pointless and just argument bs.

woudlnt it rule out that myth if you just cryo the drilled rotors?

theyl be virtually indistructable.

autoRND is beginning to sell racing brake 2 piece rotors for the FD with convergent vanes that allow better cooling. theres some thread about it somewhere here. they currently come only in oe sizing, check out the autornd vendor section or head to racingbrake.com - if i were upgrading my brakes i'd be taking that route

Believe it or not but drilled discs like on AMG,Ferrari etc will crack as well. Maybe not Ferrari though because they are Brembo's by standard but anyway.

Reason mostly is to fast heating up to max temp and cooling down too fast.

People tend to be sitting at the pits warming up the engine and the hiting the track. Brakes need warming up as well. Either for trackuse or 'spirited' driving on the street.

Has anyone purchased rotors from Cquence? They have a website at www.cquence.net. The rotors look pretty nice for only 160. I got a recommedation from a few other people and said they were great with a 120 warranty. I was wondering with anyone here purchaes from them?

That pic looks like a $2 rotor cut and drilled in a garage. I have had Z-Speed drilled/slotted rotors on my CRX since '92 with no problems except when I tried green stuff. That stuff chewed up the rotors so bad I threw them in the trash (they suck). Anyhow, Z-Speed are directionally cross drilled as well as the slotts and the cooling veins inside the rotors. They serve a usefull purpose, not for looks. Those rotrs int hat pic look like ebay chinese crap drilled by kids "lol".

I'm not saying anything about drilled rotors in general. I'm not saying anything about the numerous performance cars and bikes that come with drilled rotors that may work fine on the track. I'm not saying anything about an FD that has stock-sized drilled rotors and never goes to the track. I'm not saying anything about FDs that are used on the track, but have large drilled rotors from a brake upgrade.

But, if you put stock-sized drilled rotors on an FD and you drive it hard on a track, the rotors are pretty likely to crack on the first track day, and are nearly certain to crack before they need to be replaced due to wear. This is not a myth. A lot of people, including me, have witnessed this personally.

-Max

I think that many people who use the "but Porsche does it, or Ferrari ect" argument are overlooking WHY those companies have holes in their rotors. I can only speak about Porsche since that is the only brand I am familiar with.

Porsche casts their rotors with the holes in them not because of cooling or because of increased gas release, but they do so for decreased weight. They looked at the benefits/risks and determined that is was more important to the performance of the car to have lighter rotors than the durability of the disc.

Anyone who has driven a Porsche on the street or the track will certainly acknowledge that they are not morons when it comes to creating brake systems, but please do not believe that since they have holes in their rotors it's a good idea to drill them in yours. They took the time when designing the system to compensate for the deficits of their "drilled rotors" by doing things such as running larger diameter rotors (than they would need to for a solid rotor).

Agreed with Kento and Max. I have personally seen a tracked FD with drilled rotors crack. Not sure what brand though..

I have a Porsche 911, Honda CRF450 and GSXR1k. The CRF is one piece (non-floating)front rotor unlike most of the other dirt bikes and they work fine for the track and 99% of the people out there. I think the main point of 2 piece floating disc is to prevent warping due to thermal gradients, not cracking. But you can't compare cast vented rotors to stamped bike rotors. Way different.

There are two main points to running a 2-piece rotor:

1) weight reduction, as the hats can be aluminum instead of iron
2) the ability to only replace the actual rotor section instead of the entire hat/rotor assembly

And yes, x-drilled stock-size rotors crack during track use. Period.

And why do you think they crack?

I think we should ask you that question. What is your explanation?

That’s why I got out of this thread and why I’m going to stay out. I shouldn’t have said anything on post 35.

The answer has been posted for everyone to read. I am not going to argue with anyone over reason why metal fatigues and brakes. You’re going to believe what you want to believe and argue that right or wrong. Tired of sharing knowledge for people to hack apart from what they heard from this one forum this one time at forum camp. Sorry for posting in the beginning.

I agree...

If you had $ ~ Porsche GT3 6 piston conversion....

Hmm, well....

Fact is your an idiot. You dont know what your talking about. People posting in this thread have true real life knowledge on the subject and you are still sticking to your guns defending your sweet arguement that "but ferrari does it". Face it, your wrong and thats all there is to it.

Your right, you dont need to post in this thread anymore cause you have already been owned like 5 times. Thanks for trying though.

Cgotto6 ouch man well damn why don’t they just higher you for the next break engineer for bear and design F1 brakes. You obviously have all the forum knowledge you need. Thanks for bringing me back in and the entire name calling thing was great.

You, my friend are a complete moron....
Read everything ppl have writen before you post (specially iceblue, since he was talking about Real RACE Life).

I've race with drilled rotors and know many ppl that race with them (hard or not so hard) in the Track (Estoril, Portugal) and the only time the brakes when bad were due to brake lines failing (stock) and pads wearing out... never saw one break at the track... but did saw one brake caliper piston get welded into the disc.... :P (pads were out, but he kept racing his ITR)

Always think Brembo's are worth the money. At least for the fact they're huge and make quality parts..
EBC Greens are great... Red are even better if you track alot and hard..
Hawks never tested them.... everybody talks good about them, so i'll give them a try next replacement.

Eh go figure the dudes profile puts him at about 19yrs old.

The only reason I wanted to stop posting in the thread is because it was heading towards arguments and would not matter if I was right or wrong or the other is right or wrong and unless a Ferrari engineer stops in, no one is going to provide sufficient information to change anyone’s mind. With that in mind the argument of a thread benefits no one in the group and only wastes people’s time.

If you want to slow down faster put stickier tires on the car.

https://www.rx7club.com/suspension-wheels-tires-brakes-archive-112/more-drilled-vs-slotted-rotors-480082/

https://www.rx7club.com/suspension-wheels-tires-brakes-archive-112/do-rotors-lines-pads-really-make-big-difference-231994/

https://www.rx7club.com/suspension-wheels-tires-brakes-archive-112/cross-drillled-slot-brake-rotor-207758/

That’s true and good and all but this thread was never about stopping power or potential. It was over statements of "never use drilled rotors" and "drilled rotors are the reason they crack" and "drilled rotors serve no purpose" "If you have drilled they will fail"

iceblue,

Nobody is doubting that Porsche, Ferrari and other exotic cars use rotors with holes in them. What people are talking about is the available rotors for the FD which have holes in them have been drilled aftermarket wise, not cast with holes in them like the exotics have done.

We have all agreed (and you have as well) that drilling is less than idea so I'm not sure what the big deal is at this point. If there were true cast rotors with holes in them for our car, most likely they would be in a price range that 99% of the people wouldn't pay for them anyways.

Nobody is doubting that true 'cast' rotors with holes in them are useful. People are doubting the currently available 'drilled' rotors for the RX-7.

I am sure you are 100% correct on this statement. Outside of custom high end brakes there probably is no real good brakes for the car over the shelve.

I was only arguing the notion of drilled rotors in general on any car on any rotor. While also providing information on why to use 2 piece rotors and the fact high end brakes non ceramic will be 2 pieces always.

i recently saved a boatload on my car insurance by switching to geico! (im acually with geico and they seriously do have good rates)

on another note this is like arguing religion at this point lets quit it. this guy wants to hear more about PADS! lets just all agree that rotors are to be determined by personal opinion or to be discussed in pm.

im in the market to replace all of my pads soon... where can i get the shims? am i limited only to ray crowe?

what were looking at so far that i've gathered is that the ebc greens are good for street driving (dont need to be warm to work). ebd reds are good for track (need to be heated to seek benifits). and ebc yellows i have no idea. the hawks i heard eat paint off the car if you dont was the dust off immediately i think i read once.... anyone want to clarify this? please add some info and lets work together as a car community here :)

-Lance

FWIW I know a guy with a pretty much stock gt3 who tracks his car, he runs aftermarket 2 piece slotted rotors after having problems with cracking stock x drilled rotors.

For street pads I like the axxis ultimates - great bite, minimal dust, no noise, cheap and readily available.

Yep, the Axxis Ultimate is the best aggressive street pad I've come across too.

The Hawk HP+, EBC Reds, and other "street/track" pads do NOT work on the track. Maybe the first couple of times you go as a newb, but after that, forget it. You need real trackable compounds (PFC 01/93, Porterfield R4s, Ntech Lapping Day pads, Hawk Blues, etc).

I will never run Hawk pads again. They dust excessively, the dust is corrosive, the HP+ squeal under light braking, the dust from the Blues/Blacks can ruin your paint if left on the car and gotten wet, etc.