RotorMotor

iTrader: (5)

Hey everyone... so what kind of brake fluid do you use? I just bought another bottle of ATE Super Blue (i put it in my dads miata and so far works really well... the miata forum guys love it and so do the Porsche freaks). they make a blue one and a yellow one that you're supposed to alternate every time..you can tell when all the old fluid is out because the color will be different. Anyway give me oppinions!!!

jimlab

Motul 600

Kento

Agreed. Motul is the sh*t.

kyle@insight

Motul 600 without a doubt. Real good ****.

dclin

iTrader: (4)

Super blue works for me. I'm sure the Motul stuff is just as good if not better, but I will not worry about it until I start doing some track time. You'll get more (and relevent, if you race) input from the track guys in the Susp/Wheels/Brake section.

bajaman

Hmmmm, most other forums I have visited don't agree with what has been posted here so far, neither do I.

I think using DOT 4 fluid is the best way to go, pick any one of several manufacturers. A lot of the pure synthetics and other high-end or "racing" fluids are not really cost effective nor even "better" than a standard DOT 3 or DOT 4 fluid. If you are a true enthusiast and change your fluid often, then yeah maybe the high dollar stuff is worth it. But don't think you can just leave it in there forever, as the hygroscopic properties and the corrosiveness is much, much greater.

SanJoRX7

Please to explain.

Motul 600 is "high temp" fluid, meaning that it doesn't boil and become ruined as quickly as say, whatever you get from the dealer/kragen/autozone. It's definitely cost effective on the street as well as the track as it not only lasts longer, but is less prone to boiling and needing to be bled.

It would make LESS sense to spend more on fluid, as you imply, if you change it often, since you're basically flushing expensive fluid more often. The reality is that you're not interested in how often you do a complete flush as you are with incremental bleeding, and in this case, with fluid that's higher temp, you won't be flushing the whole brake system as often.

Higher temp fluid has very little relationship with actual braking ability, and more to do with the duration of time you can be hard on the brakes before ruining the fluid and fading.

RotorMotor

iTrader: (5)

does anyone know the boiling points etc. of motul 600? the ATE Super Blue stuff says:
Dry boiling point 280 degrees C (535F).
Wet boiling point 200 degrees C (392F).
Exceeds all DOT4 standards.

Anyway is brake fluid really just brake fluid if you're not on the track? on the street/highway, i can't see my self making enough consecutive high speed stops to develop brake fade. how much is mogul? super blue is like $16 something after shipping.

Trout2

iTrader: (5)

Per the bottle's label, Motul RBF600 is 312-C dry and 216-C for wet boiling point. Cost was about $12 per pint from Petit, little over 1 pint is needed to flush the system.

Typically, the high end brake fluids absorb moisture faster than commonly available fluids so they need to be flushed more frequently. As moisture is absorbed, the boiling point decreases.

Jack

RotorMotor

iTrader: (5)

ok, i'm convinced...it will be motul 600 next time

Kento

If this were a Volvo or Hummer enthusiast forum, then I'd agree with the "cost effectiveness" of using DOT 3 brake fluid (Motul RBF 600 and ATE Super Blue are basically classified as DOT 4 fluids; while they may be labeled "synthetic", they're all still polyalkylene glycol ether-based, or borate ester derivatives of such. Thus, their hygroscopic properties are no more drastic than your common DOT 4 fluid). And for those FD owners who rarely stop hard several times a day and fear working on their cars, I'd agree there too. Yes, the racing brake fluids can't be left "in there forever", but then again, neither can your off-the-shelf DOT 4 fluids. Flushing your brake fluid yearly isn't that big of deal to me. And I'm much happier spending the additional $4-$6.00 a bottle (which would end up costing about $24 more max)knowing that the higher boiling point not only prevents mushy pedal feel and brake fade from gas pockets forming in the calipers during driving like the car was intended, but also retains a higher boiling point longer.

merc 93

And so Kento... which do you prefer and use?????
Motul?

Nathan Kwok

I use Valvoline Synpower but also heard Castrol LMA was good for the street. The prime factor I look at isn't boiling point but how hydroscopic it is. Motul has a very high boiling point but it absorbs water quickly so you have to change it more often, thats why its more of a track fluid. Getting water in the brake fluid destroys the braking system so you want to keep it as dry as possible. The LMA in Castrol stands for "low moisture activity" btw. Valvoline also advertises low moisture activity as well.

RotorMotor

iTrader: (5)

yeah thats why i thought the ATE Super Blue would be so good... i read that it was quite good at not absorbing water compared to motul. anyway....

jimlab

If you flush your braking system once a year, there's nothing to worry about with Motul. You should probably be flushing the system at least once a year anyway, in a car that may and probably will see 120+ mph blasts...

I bought a pump from Griot's that will easily pull all of the old fluid out of the system, and a reservoir bottle keeps the reservoir full so that no air is introduced. It takes all of maybe 5-10 minutes.

radkins

Does anyone use Castrol SRF? I just put this in my car and it is supposed to have extremely high boiling points. Then again, it is $70 a liter, but cheaper than running into the back of a Porsche at the track.

redrotorR1

ATE Super Blue. As far as brake fluid goes for a street/track car, I think this is the best bang for the buck. I'm especially fond of the fact that they offer an Amber version for easy flushing.

Fish

I have used the ATE Super Blue for the last couple of years, on both road and track. This is on both my Impreza and FD3S, using OE, AP (Stillen) 4 and 6 pot calipers. Never had fade due to boiling the fluid, just over using the OE setup.

I have yet to try the Motul, but will be when the FD gets the 6 pots fitted. Will post back then.

Dan

maxpesce

My vote goes to ATE Super Blue also - It is (was) the OEM fluid on all my Mercedes Benzes (I am ashamed to say the same ATE Blue fluid has been in my current MBZ for at least 6 years now) and is also Porsche's OEM fluid of choice, I tried Valvoline SynPower in the FD but have since discovered that while Synthetics are good for High Dry & Wet Boiling points and Low Moisture Absorption, they are more compressible than the std fluids, so reduce pedal feel and increase pedal travel. This IMO makes full synthetic brake fluids a poor choice for a high perf sports car.

M104-AMG

iTrader: (8)

ATE Super Blue and the regular ATE "amber" are identical.

Use the color-change to know when you have thoroughly flushed.

:-) neil

DaveW

^Right on all counts!

I use LMA in my FD, and also in my SCCA Formula Continental racecar. No boiling problems, low moisture absorbency, low cost.

Dave

M104-AMG

iTrader: (8)

The ATE Super Blue and it's "amber" sister are also VERY low moisture absorbency. Hence, the reason for factory-fill with Mercedes & Porsche, and an interval of 2-3 years between flushes.

:-) neil

rynberg

I've always thought the ATE Super Blue has the best price/performance ratio.

TitaniumTT

Benefit to the Castrol LMA though is that I can run down and grab it @ Napa. No need to order it a wait as was the case Sunday when I had a sticky caliper on my Jeep that needed to be changed, so while I was bleeding one brake I flushed the entire system with the LMA. In all seriousness the pedal feels better now than it did after I changed both rotors, new pads, both drums, new shoes & wheel cylinders. I swear by the LMA but my experience is limited, IE never used the ATE. However, the LMA was recomended to me by Tony - KVR Performance Co-Owner when I did the brakes on the Mazda.

Section8

iTrader: (6)

Unless you are tracking your car regularly, there's really no point to spend a lot of money on brake fluid. And if you DO track regularly, there's no point in using anything other than ATE Blue or Gold unless you just like to spend more money than you need to.