Best bolt on aftermarket radiator
#1
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Best bolt on aftermarket radiator
Just bought my 93 fd about 4 months and wanna replace the radiator. Searched around and saw a couple that I was interested in. The SR Motorsports, Fluidyne and Koyo looks good. I wanted something that bolts right in with no modifications needed. Also I live in vegas and need a radiator that can handle the damn heat out here.
#2
Huh?
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I believe the fluidyne is a direct bolt in, as it is the same dimensions as the stock rad. The koyo is a little thicker, and this causes fittment issues for some people.
If you really want your car to run cooler, I would suggest that you install the FC thermoswitch. It turns the fans on at 95c, instead of 108c, and is a direct replacement. Check out the thread here for more info: https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generation-specific-1993-2002-16/its-official-do-not-buy-miata-thermoswitch-until-you-read-397156/
If you really want your car to run cooler, I would suggest that you install the FC thermoswitch. It turns the fans on at 95c, instead of 108c, and is a direct replacement. Check out the thread here for more info: https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generation-specific-1993-2002-16/its-official-do-not-buy-miata-thermoswitch-until-you-read-397156/
#3
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Alot of threads on this subject. A quick search and some reading is in order. With the heat where you live, increased capacity is probably a good idea. But as crcleofdst suggested, there's also other things to do for cooling that are relatively cheap.
A quick review......Fluidyne is 50% larger, usually less issues with fitment but not necessarily "bolt-in". KOYO is 100% larger than stock, generally more fitment issues. Both are quality units though. Don't know about SRMOTORSPORTS. It might be OK, but based on some things I've read about them, I suspect it's probably just a re-badged overpriced unit.
A quick review......Fluidyne is 50% larger, usually less issues with fitment but not necessarily "bolt-in". KOYO is 100% larger than stock, generally more fitment issues. Both are quality units though. Don't know about SRMOTORSPORTS. It might be OK, but based on some things I've read about them, I suspect it's probably just a re-badged overpriced unit.
#5
17 second FD
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The welds on my Fluidyne are absolute garbage. I'm glad I paid top dollar for a "reliability mod", when the damn thing started leaking from the MIG welds after 3,000 miles. They only TIG in a few spots. I swear, companies are selling shittier and shittier parts every year...
Threw my stocker back in, no problems...
Threw my stocker back in, no problems...
#6
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I'd get one of these. They are pretty close to you
http://rx7.com/store/rx7/fdengine_cooling.html
http://rx7.com/store/rx7/fdengine_cooling.html
#7
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The fitment issues they are referring to with the Koyo are that you will basically need to heavily modify your stock air box (basically cut the bottom off) or be running an open-filter style (like the HKS) intake.
One more thing I'd say about cooling is that localized boiling is what will cause coolant seal faliure, therefore getting a more hefty rad (like the Koyo) and running a higher porportion of coolant is better IMO, as it will lessen localized boiling!
One more thing I'd say about cooling is that localized boiling is what will cause coolant seal faliure, therefore getting a more hefty rad (like the Koyo) and running a higher porportion of coolant is better IMO, as it will lessen localized boiling!
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#9
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STAY AWAY FROM SR MOTORSPORTS
Their rad is a rebadged koyo. Not even that, they just put a sticker over the koyo tag. And the rx7store sells koyos for $370 compared to SR's $550.
Their rad is a rebadged koyo. Not even that, they just put a sticker over the koyo tag. And the rx7store sells koyos for $370 compared to SR's $550.
#10
Racecar - Formula 2000
The fitment issues they are referring to with the Koyo are that you will basically need to heavily modify your stock air box (basically cut the bottom off) or be running an open-filter style (like the HKS) intake.
One more thing I'd say about cooling is that localized boiling is what will cause coolant seal faliure, therefore getting a more hefty rad (like the Koyo) and running a higher porportion of coolant is better IMO, as it will lessen localized boiling!
One more thing I'd say about cooling is that localized boiling is what will cause coolant seal faliure, therefore getting a more hefty rad (like the Koyo) and running a higher porportion of coolant is better IMO, as it will lessen localized boiling!
Good point. While 70 water/ 30 antifreeze improves heat transfer, it does lower the boiling point, and makes hot spots (which can ruin the seals) more likely. 70/30 is also not as good at preventing corrosion as 50/50, even when used with distilled water.
Dave
#13
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When I receieved the unit, it was packaged remarkably well. The leak was caused by shitty welding. Why they used MIG instead of TIG just baffles me, it just flat out looks like garbage.
#15
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That would **** me off too and here's hoping you were an anomaly. I had my car up in the air just the other day when a friend stopped by and remarked how nice all the welds were on my Fluidyne. I replied with some remark that it should be nice given the cost....but mine really did seem like a quality piece. And it's been in the car nearly 3 years with absolutely no issues.
#16
Call me gramps!
Keep in mind, I had the stock airbox/IC at the time of the install.
#17
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Thanks everyone for the info. My fd is still all stock. I'm sure going to stay away from the SR rad. I ordered a Koyo rad because of the good price I got.
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03-17-22 02:46 PM