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battery relocation kit

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Old Dec 23, 2003 | 02:34 AM
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battery relocation kit

Anyone know where I can get a battery relocation kit. Any advice...best kit? Thanks
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Old Dec 23, 2003 | 02:58 AM
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i dont know about the best kit but cheapest kit is alway DIY kit. im also interested to hear from other forum members with the kit.
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Old Dec 23, 2003 | 03:08 AM
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summit or any of the big car parts sites, pretty non specific piece so you can shop around. might want to find a kit that leaves a possitive termninal in the engine bay, or get something like that on your own, so you can still jump the car from the engine bay.
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Old Dec 23, 2003 | 03:13 AM
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Yeah I guess I really should have searched first. I think I am going to just make my own. I have a question about the fuse though. I'm not really seeing why you would need a fuse, if you are just running the + wire from the original +terminal. Aren't you just extending the terminal and the stock fuses would be sufficient.
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Old Dec 23, 2003 | 03:19 AM
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got me there. maybe kits just include it so you have the option.
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Old Dec 23, 2003 | 03:24 AM
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never seen a fuse in a kit. but M2 performance sells one for $289. it comes with (1) Sealed drycell battery with integrated metal mounting case; (2) pre-cut lengths of positive & negative 2-gauge battery cables; (4) cables ends; (2) terminal covers.
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Old Dec 23, 2003 | 04:40 AM
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I have a battery relocation kit from M2. BUT GOOD LUCK GETTING ANYTHING FROM THEM. Anyhow it is an Odyssey 920C Dry Cell battery that I relocated to the drivers side bin. I ran the cabling from the engine compartment down along the firewall, through the brake line channel to the underbody just below the bin. Drilled a hole and punched through to the bin. It was pretty easy. Connected the extension cables directly to the original battery mountings.
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Old Dec 23, 2003 | 05:26 AM
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Kits are a waste of money.

Go to checker auto parts (or something like it). They have the battery boxes, terminals, etc. Then just get the right gauges wire and run it. You wont need the box if you are planning on trying to fit it in the rear bins, but i found it easier to just by a box and put it in the hatch.

Then, just make sure you ground it well.
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Old Dec 23, 2003 | 08:43 AM
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www.gothamracing.com has a mini battery kit. Little pricy for a BATTERY though!

you will appreciate the DIY method, imo...
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Old Dec 23, 2003 | 08:55 AM
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widebody. I've got a new relocation kit I never put in. It's out of the box but hasn't been used. I'll sell it to you really cheap. Also have an optima red top if you want it.
-Nic
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Old Dec 23, 2003 | 09:43 AM
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www.batterymart.com

order a hawker mini battery, buy 13 ft of 2 gauge wire red, 2 feet of black and some terminal crimps... It will cost you under 150 and you can mount it in your rear bin, (or under the rear bin like me )
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Old Dec 23, 2003 | 10:06 AM
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i did mine myself just a few days ago. was so easy to do and came out really well.

took about two hours total work time.

$110 for the Optima Red Top battery

$80 for 13 feet of 0-gauge wire, the gold battery terminals, 1.5ft 2-gauge grounding wire w/ terminal, battery box and tiedown kit, and a 150a fuse and box.

heres a pic:



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Old Dec 23, 2003 | 12:17 PM
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^looks EXACTLY like mine except I run a yellow top because of my sound system.



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Old Dec 23, 2003 | 12:19 PM
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here is a pic

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Old Dec 23, 2003 | 02:27 PM
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You really dont need kit, just put together one of your own. Its cheaper and you know what your getting. It cost me about $50 to relocate mine. Except it was a bitch and a half to run the wires and cut the bin.
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Old Dec 23, 2003 | 02:49 PM
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just nit-picking here but both your bins look completely different, the catch that it slots into is 2 part in the top one and 1 part in the bottom one. Also Fujikuro you seem to have some sort of button/lock thing where as 0110-M-P you do not. Never had bins so could someone please tell me the differences with the above two and why etc?

Thanks

Ryan
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Old Dec 23, 2003 | 03:06 PM
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You have to have a fuse no less than 12" from the positive terminal. I read that somewhere. Don't ask me why.
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Old Dec 23, 2003 | 03:10 PM
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Originally posted by widebody2
Yeah I guess I really should have searched first. I think I am going to just make my own. I have a question about the fuse though. I'm not really seeing why you would need a fuse, if you are just running the + wire from the original +terminal. Aren't you just extending the terminal and the stock fuses would be sufficient.
the reason you fuse it is for protection in case you short the wire from where you're "extending the terminal" to the battery, which is a potential fire hazard. the fuse isn't for added protection for your systems.
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Old Dec 23, 2003 | 03:42 PM
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Originally posted by rybrx7
just nit-picking here but both your bins look completely different, the catch that it slots into is 2 part in the top one and 1 part in the bottom one. Also Fujikuro you seem to have some sort of button/lock thing where as 0110-M-P you do not. Never had bins so could someone please tell me the differences with the above two and why etc?

Thanks

Ryan
One is the passenger side and the other is the drivers side.
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Old Dec 23, 2003 | 04:11 PM
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so one has a lock/button (does it lock or push button open?) and the other does not??

Ryan
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Old Dec 23, 2003 | 04:16 PM
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yeah, mine is on the pas. side, and his is on the drivers side.
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Old Dec 23, 2003 | 04:21 PM
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Originally posted by rybrx7
so one has a lock/button (does it lock or push button open?) and the other does not??

Ryan
Correct. It locks.
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Old Dec 23, 2003 | 04:23 PM
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100$ optima battery, $125 or so for the summit kit.

I didnt want to hurt my nice black interior and cut the bins up
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Old Dec 23, 2003 | 07:52 PM
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what do you do with the engine bay ground? rig it to ground into the body?
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Old Dec 23, 2003 | 07:53 PM
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think i mite have to be getting myself some rear bins and doing this. Is there a tutorial anywhere?
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