t-von

iTrader: (8)

The double wires compensate for the current limitations of the single wire. You can run a bigger gauge in place of the two. If that's the main feed to the starter, then I would replace it with 2 gauge like I menchioned above.

Spec C

Ok so here is an update. We added a ground on the passenger side from the block to the chassis. Car fired right up. I literally started it 10+ times, and she cranked perfectly.

I drive 15 min down the road, turn the car off, and it won't start. Any ideas?

AzEKnightz

iTrader: (24)

Wont start or wont crank?

Crank but no start is one issue, while no crank is another.

-AzEKnightz

Spec C

It would slow crank, then eventually stop..lol The starter was engaging though. I will say either way I am going to throw some sort of "blanket" on the starter because it is getting blasted by the headers.

AzEKnightz

iTrader: (24)

slow cranking then stopped. I'd double check on the condition of the battery + the alternator with the battery fully charged.

Then proceed to load test the battery and have an alternator output test done.

You should be seeing 13.6-14.4 volts at idle. Anything lower or higher, you have an alternator problem.

-AzEKnightz

XLR8

iTrader: (52)

+1 on this.

May be time to get that batter, starter, and alternator tested.

t-von

iTrader: (8)

Sounds like your alternator isn't charging.

Spec C

If that was the case then the car wouldn't fire right up after it had cooled down.

Car has been sitting for like 8hrs now and this is measured at the fuse block it not even the battery.


Woke up this morning, jump in the car and it fires right up, drive to my buddies shop 15 miles away, turn the car off, immediately try and start it...wont start. Cools down, starts up, drive home.

At this point it is just a multitude of issues(wire size, wire routing, etc, etc), and IMO one of them is the inferior wire that was already used to run to the starter. . All that is going to be cleaned up.



Plan of attack:
1. Run new 2awg or 1/0awg(haven't decided yet) wire from the battery to the starter. I am going to run it up the passenger side as it will cut down the length by near 50%.
2. Remove ridiculous rats nest of power wires under the frame rail that run to starter.
3. Run 4 gauge from starter to alternator.
4. Run 4 gauge from alternator to fuse block.
5. Put reflective loom around wires near starter, and possibly starter blanket.
6. Add one more 4 gauge ground on the driver side.

XLR8

iTrader: (52)

With the heating being the common denominator, I just don't think it's a wiring issue anymore. However, your plan of attack will not hurt.

Spec C

From what I understand increased heat causes resistance, and exposes weak connections. I haven't even looked at the starter wires but judging by the "junction" under the bay I am sure it is shitty connections, and getting heat soaked.

Basically as it sits the current has to travel from the passenger bin, across to the driver side, up the driver side, to the fuse block, where it needs to travel down to this ridiculous junction, then to the starter all the way back on the passenger side, and the starter is inches away from the header. Through 4gauge wire.

I am pretty confident once I clean it all up it will be good to go. I am also going to use the best wire I can find. I will spare no expense on this sucker..heh

I will say even with the battery in the bay when the car was heatsoaked it had a hard time starting. At the time I attributed it to the 3 year old battery, but now it is obvious to me it is just the shitty wiring that was in place when I bought the car, that ran from the fuse block to the starter, and now the added length of cable is making it even worse.

I will report back next week with updates.