jimlab

You need to invest in a multimeter and an instruction booklet to go with it...

It shouldn't be that difficult to figure out if power is getting to the starter. As I mentioned above, you can test the starter by jumping current from the positive battery terminal to the positive terminal of the starter solenoid and test it that way. If you have 12V+ at the starter, the engine will likely start unless the starter is bad, the battery is bad, or both.

FD3SR1

2ga. is alot better it has less ohms of resistance (gets more power with less electrical effort)

Does that fit though the gromets well?

GoRacer

iTrader: (2)

ok I tested the voltage at the battery 12.1v, at the fuse box 11.98v, the starter 11.98v, positive battery with my ground location 12.0v and before and after the circuit braker which I relocated next tot he battery 12.0v.

Gremlin1802

I don't understand. Did you say you grounded the wiring harness ground to the paint? Sand it down to the metal. It only takes a couple of seconds. What kind of ring terminals are you using? If they are made out of metal, just beat it down with a hammer. If that dont work, put a punch in the middle of the crimp and beat that down. That's what I had to do with these big 1 guage terminals.

GoRacer

iTrader: (2)

Gound goes to the rear/upper strut bar, where the bolt goes through the bar and attaches to the bracket. The bracket area around the bolt is sanded to bare metal as well as the nut. The rest of the bracket is still painted and so is the top of the shock tower, so I don't know for shure if it's a good ground but it no longer gets hot.

The rings are Fosgate Pro gold plated and I already broke a pliers trying to crimp them. I tried my Sears supervisegrips and even an impact hammer. I don't have a punch, a vise or special crimp tool and the hammer makes the ring fall off when you wack it.

I wish my jump start thing still worked then I could test if it's the car and not the relocation. I used to have to jump it every time when the PC80 battery was in the engine. I am charging that to see if the voltage gets higher then 10.8v. I should have ordered the screw down terminals a long time ago cause I can't get them localy.

GoRacer

iTrader: (2)

Gound goes to the rear/upper strut bar, where the bolt goes through the bar and attaches to the bracket. The bracket area around the bolt is sanded to bare metal as well as the nut. The rest of the bracket is still painted and so is the top of the shock tower, so I don't know for shure if it's a good ground but it no longer gets hot.

The rings are Fosgate Pro gold plated and I already broke a pliers trying to crimp them. I tried my Sears supervisegrips and even an impact hammer. I don't have a punch, a vise or special crimp tool and the hammer makes the ring fall off when you wack it.

I wish my jump start thing still worked then I could test if it's the car and not the relocation. I used to have to jump it every time when the PC80 battery was in the engine. I am charging that to see if the voltage gets higher then 10.8v. I should have ordered the screw down terminals a long time ago cause I can't get them localy.

mad_7tist

droping to 5v under load, cranking,means the batt is bad or under charged

wickedrx7

iTrader: (14)

Did the car start fine with this battery mounted up front? Have you tried jumping the car either at the battery or in front where you connected to the factory battery cables? If there isn't a good connection with either the positive or ground cables, the car WILL NOT START. Use some logic, the car started fine with the battery up front, correct? You move the battery to the bins and now it won't start, correct? Common sense would say that it is something you did, so move backwards. Put the battery back up front and see if the car starts.

GoRacer

iTrader: (2)

One battery is brand new and the other was pulled from my working CRX. They are both Optima 51R's. I had an Odyssey PC680 in the engine which was bad and I had to jump start it every time which killed my jump starter unit and so I don't have one now. There is no way to fit a larger battery in the engine with my custom FMIC setup and there are no longer factory cables. I ordered the screw down ring ends because I can't crimp the ones I have nor solder them. So hopefully by this weekend I will find out if that was the problem. I don't understand how both battery's could crank fine in the 1.6l CRX but not in the 1.3l RX7.

wickedrx7

iTrader: (14)

Becasue it isn't the battery, it is your wiring job. Sorry if I am being harsh but that is the truth of the matter.

Gremlin1802

Yep, Just go back and check all your wires and grounds.

GoRacer

iTrader: (2)

Ok, went through the manual. I have +12.3v to B but nothing to S (with the plastic plug in connector)on the starter with the key on. So one of the options was to check the wiring harness. I tried to find a better location for the gound because I had it attached to the indermidate plate which is painted but couldn't reach anything else. Removing the wiring harness loom close to the starter, I found two broken wires and have no idea what they are for. The white/red has +6.2v & blue/red has 1.5v?

GoRacer

iTrader: (2)

It's not the clutch switch because there is a difference when it's depressed and not.
I can't rule out the alarm system but the power wire to it is disconnected.
When wiggling the wiring harness I can hear a clickity click click which may be a possible short. I beleive one of those wires is for the oil level sensor but I don't know about the other one. ...anyone, anyone ...Beauler?

GoRacer

iTrader: (2)

I rerouted my ground to one of the studs for the Bose base snake, sanded that down to a polished metal and used platinum Stinger screw down type ring terminals and she started.

Can anyone recognize those two broken wires? ...and where is the proper spot for that wiring harness ground?