Hello fellow Rotor-Heads.......

I'm in the middle of putting my car back together and was wondering if doing a battery relocation is a good idea? and is it really that hard to do? thanks a lot and have a merry christmas or happy holidays.

Regards, Matt

 

it's not difficult. Too bad the search doesn't work now. coz we have a lot of info about it on this forum.

 

Really easy to do. Depending on what battery you will use you may or may not have to cut your bins...of course you can put it in the hatch area.

email me with questions and I'll help ya out or at least give you an idea of what to do.

 

Any concerns about fumes from batteries in the passenger compartment?

 

Right rear bin is best place as far as weight distribution.

 

Leprechaun is right on that ^^^

No problems with fumes if you use a completely sealed battery. I'm using Hawker Genesis (22 lbs).

 

so what do you do with the grounding strap wiring harness? or do you just not use it? any info is apperciated. oh ya and dry cell or not?

Matt

 

Dry cell...I leave the stock ground strap alone. Make a new one from the rear bin...make sure you scrape paint to get good contact. Positive wire to the starter.

Dry cell.

Eddie

 

My car had the battery relocated by the previous owner so I cant comment on the work involved there. I can say that the space it frees up in the engine bay is incredible!

 

Thanks for all the great info guys. I'll go ahead and to the relocation.

Matt

 

There is one more thing you need to think about when doing the battery relocation. At least in Az if you drag race, when moving a battery away from "in front of the driver" or out from under the hood, you need to have an on/off switch mounted on your back bumper. You may not have to worry about it where your at, but it made me put mine back up front, and I went with a smaller battery. It fit fine. And I still have the room to put in a fmic.

 

Haha, at Firebird the tech asked me if the battery came like that and I said no, then he asked me again while shaking his head as if to get me to say no, so I said no. Then he explained the rules about the cutoff switch in the back and needing a fully sealed NHRA approved battery box if it is located in the passenger area. He told me to say it is stock if I am ever asked again

 

Another good idea is to add a fuse or circuit breaker to the positive side near the terminal. If you don't, a short during an accident or other mishap will cause a fire.

 

It is a very good idea to run the neg side directly to the engine block with the same guage or thicker than stock. Why? you ask. Because if you dont, all of the power must be directed through the body, and or the very small ground strap at the rear of the engine(the one that goes to the body) Ground is just as important as the Positive. Make sure the positive cable is well insulated when it passes either by or through metal, or you will have made yourself a very expensive DC welder.