Can someone tell me if the omp in my 2002 fd3s is working or not? logged a video of the car starting showing the voltage in the adaptronic modular ecu

 

I can't make anything out on the screen of your video. IIRC the FD OMP works on 1 - 5v and is both load and rpm dependent. Without load (just raising rpm) I think it'll only go a little over 4v. And it fails to 2.5v. On a stock ECU any one of three related codes also puts the car into limp mode.

 

When I turn the key to the on position and when I start the car the voltage_Servo is reading 2.3V, these means my omp is bad then?

Also these can make my car to be consuming more oil and be smoking on the tailpipes? I was trying to figure why my car is smoking and consuming oil (lot more than usual), the engine is brand new mazda oem from irp and no external leaks.

 

Does voltage change at all with rpm, or does it stay at 2.3v? If it’s unchanged then yes, it sounds like the OMP is bad. And smoking/high oil consumption would likely result.
I doubt the new short blocks come with a new OMP so you’re using the one from your old engine...correct?

 

That’s right, im using the one from my old engine. Haven’t rev the engine too much but from idle to 3k rpm is stuck in 2.3V. Is there a fix to these or it need to be replaced?

 

They’re not intended for repair. You’ll need to source a good used one. If you use the forum I’d be sure to deal with long-time member with a good seller reputation.

 

Ok, thanks alot for your help!

 

I checked again today and after warmup the voltage did move from 2.3 at startup and warmup to 2.08 at iddle and oscillating between 2.08 and 2.15V while driving, Im breaking inn the engine so most of the time im in 3k rpm range and no boost.

Did my omp is really bad or could be some tunning issues? I have the adaptronic modular already tuned from the previous engine.

 

I don’t have a magic wand to wave thru the internet over you engine bay. Voltage and continuity checks are set out in the Factory Service Manual. You should have a copy by now and do your own checks. If you still have your stock ecu you could even plug that back in and see if it goes into limp mode and you get a cel with one of the three codes related to the OMP.
That said, while I’ve never closely monitored the MOP on my PFC commander, it sounds like your’s isn't working as it should.

 

I had the same problem. Mine is a 97 16bit. Same modular ecu. Omp constantly wide open. The ecu is to blame. I kept fouling plugs and had oil coming up the intake runners.
I sent mine in for repair and they confirmed as much.
Disable the omp in the ecu and premix for a couple of tanks to see if it makes a difference.
I am no longer using this ECU.

 

Interesting. I put in a Mikuni OMP when I rebuilt my engine and had issues with it with my Adaptronic Modular ecu.. ended up sending it in and found out there was a blown MOSFET which I had to pay to have fixed. Still haven't figured out what the issue was as the OMP ohms out fine. Been meaning to pull it off the car and bench test it to see if it shorts out or something during operation (maybe at a certain position?) but haven't got to it yet.

Did your OMP end up being faulty or was it fine when you went to a different ECU? I'd assumed my OMP was trash..

 

Never tested it and am not running one anymore.
Omp’s and Adaptronics will never go near any car of mine again.

 

Just understand that with no OMP, when injector duty goes to zero or near zero, so goes lubrication on the hard seals.

 

I have overrun fuel cut disabled so it should hardly ever see those conditions.

 

Long periods of decel, often from relatively high rpm. A pretty common condition. Just because fuel isn’t cut doesn’t mean lubrication is always sufficient. That’s why the OMP was load AND rpm dependent.