3rd Generation Specific (1993-2002) 1993-2002 Discussion including performance modifications and Technical Support Sections.
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Old Oct 3, 2002 | 10:50 PM
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Automotive Restore Products

Automotive Restore Products makes what they call Engine Restorer & Lubricant. It comes in a red, white, and blue can for those of you who haven seen it. My question is for those of you who might know a little more about it. They claim that it really restores compression, Horsepower, oil consumption, and engine life. Now I do know that just because it may say stuff like that on the bottle and claimes to be the best when it comes to the other products like it, it doesn't mean ****. But doesn't it sound like its necture from the Gods to an RX-7? Everything it claims to improve by big numbers is everything an RX loses over time. Charts show a big difference in all those catigories. Again i know the charts are there for advertisement. The directions say just add to the oil next oil change. My question is Can this be used for a rotary engine? I know they say you shouldn't use Synthetic oil, but people do and the car runs better and lasts a long time. For more info check out www.RestoreUSA.com.

Thanks..
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Old Oct 3, 2002 | 11:03 PM
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P'cola FD's Avatar
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My parts manager told me about a lot of the products out on the market these days. I can't remember what he told me was in that stuff, but I do rember a few others, such as Bars stop leak=broken up cork; oil flushes=kerosene. That stuff has been on the market for decades, if it was that revolutionary, you would hear people talking about it all the time. It may not hurt your engine, but I don't see it helping. There is no way any additive could restore compression to an engine with worn out seals/housings because it would get burnned up.
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Old Oct 3, 2002 | 11:10 PM
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It says not suitable for 2 stroke engines. I know we aren't two stroke, but that disclaimer alone makes me say no to using it in a rotary.
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Old Oct 3, 2002 | 11:19 PM
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Yeah I know its been around a while. And I know that if it did work wonders that it would be more talked about. I was just curious about the imput you guys would have on it. I don't think I'll be putting it in my engine anyways. I too can't see it helping much either.
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Old Nov 24, 2013 | 08:28 AM
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Thread revival!
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Old Nov 24, 2013 | 08:49 AM
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cock block ransom
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I was skeptical about it for a while until I recently used it in my q45. Whenever I would " stomp on it", I leave a nice oil misting bath to anyone behind me. That was all due to oil blow by. I poured in a can on that following oil change, and it made a huuuuuuuge difference after 1500 miles. The oil bath misting slowly disappeared, and it restored MOST of my torque! I did some further investigation into this and I have found out that the intended purpose of this treatment is to actually " fill in" cylinder wall scratches and other abnormal scratching of the internals. The main ingredients are copper, and aluminum. This does work. But it is mostly used by the hot rod community.
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Old Nov 24, 2013 | 08:50 AM
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....and thread death. Nothing in a can will fix anything magically.

Which was pretty much stated in this thread, I'm not sure why you would bump an 11 year old thread.

Dale
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Old Nov 24, 2013 | 09:03 AM
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cock block ransom
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I have tried it in my rx7 before it was stolen. And one thing that I did notice was quicker engine starts ( low compression on front rotor at 175k n/a 13b) and a little pep in acceleration. Too bad it's gone, because i was going to take it apart to see the results ;(. I brought the 4 cylinder can, SHAKEN IT WELL FOR 5 minutes, and used HALF! Of it! Reason of me doing this is because after it's done its job of filling in scratches, the tiny flakes will continue to circulate around around the engine... So I suggest draining the oil after 1500 miles, so it can set itself in.
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Old Nov 24, 2013 | 11:37 AM
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You do know that we have a sealed oil system unlike a piston engine. The oil would have to be injected through the OMP and somehow not be flashed and burnt before it could do it's magic on the rotor housings. Furthermore I really highly doubt this stuff works anyway...
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Old Nov 24, 2013 | 07:02 PM
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I am with Dale & extremely skeptical that any of these proclaimed fix-all oil treatments are worth your hard earned $$.
If you are burning through oil or have low compression, a rebuild is the only 100% tested and verified way to get your compression back and get things in spec again.

**I will tell you a short rambling story about additives though, based on past experience with other cars.

I used to own a BMW E39 M5 V8 sedan as a daily driver. I ran only the expensive BMW 10W60 synthetic engine oil from the dealers, religiously, with the BMW genuine filters also. I used to pray every night, that the car would not die or break anything, because it would kill my wallet to fix it if anything went wrong. The car paranoid me every time I drove it.

One day, a long way from home, the oil pan somehow got holed and it lost all of its oil within a short distance. The oil level sensor in the sump was faulty and it failed to alert me that anything was wrong at first. I kept driving.

The week before, I had bought a package of this "Liqui-Moly MOS2" molybdenum-disulphide oil additive. The stuff is basically colloidal molybdenum platelets suspended in a 30 weight oil. Nothing more. Not marketed as a magic fix-all. Older piston aircraft used to run moly in the engine oil in case they lost crankcase oil, the engine would not seize and would "emergency run" for a short time, to maybe get the aircraft down and increase survival chances for the pilot. Molybdenum is also used in high load industrial grease and on the surfaces of new camshaft and lifter lobes in piston engines during rebuild/break in to prevent galling. It is known to be useful and we use it here in Hydro power turbine applications at my workplace.

So I kept driving, unware of my holed sump. I only became aware when the oil pressure sensor detected no more oil pressure. The BMW dash lit up and it displayed a warning text message across the dash screen (this was an expensive BMW remember) "STOP! ENGINE OIL PRESSURE LOW!"
I pulled over and looked and there was oil under the car, on the exhaust and nothing on the dipstick. ****. I then decided I was angry with the car (didnt know why it was losing oil, assumed something expensive and fragile had just failed) and I was going to start it back up and drive the 3 kilometres or so, to the nearest fuel stop to get oil and help as it was starting to get dark.

I drove the 3 kilometres with no engine oil, with the car beeping at me and telling me to shut it off. I got there. I got the car home eventually and I ran that car for a further 4 years before selling it, with no issues as a result.

I was fortunate enough to look inside the S62 V8 when I took the cylinder heads off for an overhaul about 2 years later. Everything was fine. Sold the car running well and never heard of a complaint with it, even to this day.
That MOS2 stuff is the only additive thing I will ever consider putting in a piston engine, because I believe without it, the BMW would have seized up on me. I really believe that the $20 bottle went some way to saving me $$$$ for a BMW engine. I dont use the stuff much anymore, and I dont use it in my FD RX7. But if the time came to use it in some other car, I would do it.

Make of that what you will.
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Old Nov 28, 2013 | 09:59 PM
  #11  
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cock block ransom
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Originally Posted by mono4lamar
You do know that we have a sealed oil system unlike a piston engine. The oil would have to be injected through the OMP and somehow not be flashed and burnt before it could do it's magic on the rotor housings. Furthermore I really highly doubt this stuff works anyway...
Yes, I do know that... Curiosity got the best of me back at that time.
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Old Nov 28, 2013 | 10:08 PM
  #12  
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cock block ransom
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From: the whore house, P.G. county ,M.D.
SA3R, that is an amazing situational journey. I've never went through anything like that. You had to be super-stressed!
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