When powerbreaking my car getting ready for a race the RPM's just stop at 2000. I have it in D and have one foot on the break and one foot on the gas and pushing it in and out or just holding it makes no difference it always stays at 2k. I have a 93 with a DP MP catback and HKS SMF intake.

Why wont it go any higher?

THANKS

 

Various things are mentioned in the service manual, you should be seeing a much higher stall speed than that....3000 to 3300 if memory serves me correct.

Do you have a factory service manual yet? If not, they are your next best friend. I highly recommend you purchasing one.

 

But why would my stall speed drop? Is it from the exhaust system? I would like some input from other auto owners who could tell me how theres works with their setup.

Thanks

 

When mine was a auto i couldn't bring the revs past 2200 , the brakes couldn't hold it still any more. I didn't do that to much either since i knew i was probably doing damage to something. I remember people saying that the stall was higher,but i didn't want to waste the money in labor hours and parts. I assume it was normal, i'm sure there's alot of auto owners that can't rev up that high.

 

Just reef on the breaks and hold the throttle floored for like 10 mintues...After that you should see your RPM's climb much higher.

Course your TC will be shot, but wouldnt it be cool to launch it at like 7k!

Just kidding, seriously powerbreaking your Auto FD is GUARANTEED to greatly reduce the life of your tranny.

Which if you have anything over 50k on the tranny, it probably doesn't have much left in it anyway.

Search for Automatic and Launching there is some good techniques posted by Jonski.

 

I cant powerbrake mine past 1300 rpms.Probably need some new pads.Or im making too much power.But with only a vacuum hose job and a blitz intake its probably the brake pads.

 

I've seen the same thing happen on several cars, and I think it's the ECU.

The ECU knows you got the foot on the gas AND the brake. Try putting the car on a wet surface or on grass, floor it, and you will see the engine will rev up as far as it can go, but power braking and the ECU will be tellin ya nono.

Personally, I'd call someone that repograms ECUs and ask them if that is something that can be remedied. Actually, I never would have gotten an Auto to begin with

 

are you saing that your tires spin at 2k or that it just wont go any higher? if your tires spin at 2k, you need better brakes. if it just stops reving at 2k their may be something else wrong.

as for the launching technique:
this is a technique i learned from reading a post on here left by jonski. this has worked really well for me
here are the instructions:
1. put the shifter in L and press hold
2. brake tourque to about 2500rpm, just before your tires start to spin (you dont want them to spin)
3. when light turns green, let off brake and hold the gas pedal still until 3000rpm or so, when the boost is built up, then mash it to the floor, and release the hold button when you get to 6500rpm, you will go a little over the 7000rpm red but its ok. then shift into "S" when 2nd gear is finished.

 

I am saying that it just wont go any higher. The wheels wont/dont spin it just stops. No matter if its on dirt, gravel, wet or dry tarmac, still the same.

 

Does it STALL or just get to 2k and keep running? - The Engine should STALL @ 3000-33000 rpm if all is working correctly. it sounds like you are not producing enough torque to get the TQ Conv to full stall - and/ or you have other problems - the FSM has a good discussion of STALL testing and is available on-line.

 

rev to about 2,500rpm with shift lever in L and hold button selected. I have downpipe, catback, smic, induction, apexi ecu and mine shoots off the line when power braking.

rgds

 

look........, u gotta AUTOMATIC correct? its for cruising only! NOT FOR RACING!

 

yea well that still doesnt explain why hes only getting a 2k stall speed when he should be getting over 3k. I have the saem problem but would faulty turbos have anything to do with it. Seeing as im getting a max of 5psi on them would that have any effect on the stall speed when powerbreaking?

 

Like what people have said, its very bad for the tranny and Torque Converter!

BUT if you still insist then follow the suggestions above. Put in L and press the hold button. That should do it...

 

I wish i could put my car in L and rev to 2500rpms but even there and in S it still stops at 2000.
It doesnt stall it just keeps at a constant 2k.

You say i dont have enuf torque to get any higher?
could the midpipe take away the low end torque or is there another problem?

Would an ecu upgrade and a tuning help this?
In doing one of my searches on this great site someone said that they put the PFC on their car and it blew out thier auto tranny. Has anyone else had this problem?

Thanks

 

do a manual swap

 

The manual swap is on my list of things to do but since its 3000$ its near the bottom.

The next thing I plan on getting is the Power FC.
Then pulley kit, radiator, front mount intercooler, non-sequential conversion, nitrous kit...... thats probably all for performance. anyone think i should do any of the things in a different order or add anything.

I also want a c west front, a scoot sports replica hood, and the rotaryextreme headlight conversion.

After all that then comes the manual tranny unless of course my auto decides to go out before then.


Does anyone know what frontmount this is.
http://www.rotaryextreme.com/product/scoot/recar-1.jpg

 

with the car reving to 2k and just sitting there, with no tire spin or stalling, sounds like a tourque converter problem. also could be a turbo problem. does your car boost fine when you drive w/o brake tourquing? if you dont have a boost controller, get 1. your boost pattern should be 10-8-10. 10, then drop to 8 at 4k rpms, and then back to 10 until red. hopefully this will get you started on what to look for.

 

I just bought a boost controller and a boost gauge and an a/f gauge today. i also got the pillar mount.

after i get this stuff installed hopefully you guys can give me some good advice and info on my car.

Ive just spent the last 2hours reading posts about the automatic to manual conversion and from what im reading this seems to be a pretty simple but time consuming swap.

I also read some people were using parts from japanese cars to do the swaps. could/does this work? is their gearbox any different since the cars are right hand drive?

thanks