Sonny

I was cruising around today after installing my new downpipe. The car started hesitating under boost, so I let off and then the engine immediately died.

I started her back up and found that she was running very rough. I limped her back home (about 2 miles) and pulled into the garage. I popped the hood and heard what sounded to be an air leak.

Sure enough, the hose going to MAP sensor had popped off. I reattached it and that smoothed things out, but something doesn't feel quite right yet. Trailing plugs are out and using my piston motor compression tester (with the bleeder valve locked open), I see consistent needle bouncing between 80-120 psi on each rotor. The needle drops to 80 and then pulses to 120 in a consistent manner. I'm encouraged to see that the pattern is the same on each rotor.

I'm gonna toss in new plugs and see what happens. Man, those things are a pita to get out.

Wish me luck.

Sonny

ObliqueFD

iTrader: (32)

Reset your ECU. That can be done by diconnecting the battery for 30 minutes.

Sonny

Well, looks like I'm ok. Idle is smooth at 750 rpm and it's pulling a solid 19" of vacuum. Boost is good, too. I'd like to think that the J&S Safeguard did its part. I can almost pinpoint when the hose fell off because I could see the J&S pulling timing from both rotors.

I've had a J&S in every boosted car that I've owned and I was pleased to see that this car had one when I bought it.

ObliqueFD: I think I'm ok without an ECU reset, but it can't hurt.

Sonny

93BlackFD

no, disconnect negative battery terminal, push brakes for 5secs to drain ECU

reconnect

bee

lol, Everyone has their own method of reseting the ecu. I prefer the disconnect/stepping on the brake 5 times. Always worked for me.