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APEXi Turbo Timer Primer

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Old 07-18-02, 08:32 PM
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APEXi Turbo Timer Primer

This thread is to combine what I have read in others, and cover everything in one fell swoop.

1) Disconnect negative ground

2) Add the harness into the ignition harness

aztecwell: The harness plugs in under the steering wheel. If you remove the black plastic covers (one has the heater vent and the other goes around the steering column), you will see it. It is right behind a blue, flat, three inch plug. I had to disconnect a lot of wires before I got the harness situated correctly. Here's a tip... my ignition harness was a biotch to get apart... I had to use a small screwdriver to depress the tab so I could pull the plug out. Everything was pretty tight in there, but after some re-arranging it all fit together nicely.
slopoke: ok here you go, under the steering wheel there is a plastic panel, take this off (hint, you must take the little acess panel off the side to get to a screw) now this is where i used little skinny screwdrivers, look up and you will see the iginition harness coming down the underside of the steering colum, right under a metal brace you will see a white connector in the harness, you must slide the red thing out to unlock it then pull it apart, it is tight in here so be patient. then you plug the harness in between the two facotry plugs.
Now we have 3 wires coming off the relay. These are black (ground) white (02 sensor) and grey (E-brake sensor).
APEX'is instructions list ground then O2 then Ebrake. I can't imagine it mattering since the battery is disconnected. Lets do the E-brake 1st.

3) Remove the center console and splice into the E-brake wire.

Quickfini: To take off the center console to expose the parking brake wire, just run your hands along the edge of the console, and pull outwards.. slowly.. u'll hear a snap sound, but don't worry.. most of the parts inside are plastic and snap together.. i think there are about 4 snaps holding the center console in place..
Want2race: Pull the center console cover off ( put your hand in the ebrake area and lift gently and then,move around till its off..Then @ the back where the ebrake pivots there is a screw holding the boot inplace, remove that screw and slide the boot up.. Then you should see 1 wire grab teh wire and pull upwards. it will slide off.. then remove some of that foam crap I guess and attach it however you would do that...
BigRed: to the left of the e-brake, there is a single wire coming from the main harness. it has a thicker insulated black cover on it protecting it. if you move that cover out of the way and look straight down, you can see the metal end piece that is connected to something else that you can't unplug it from. it's pretty short, so there's not much play between where it is seated and the harness.
Photo courtesy of MastaCow

The black shrinkwrapped one is what you want.

4) Connect the 02 and Ground wires to the ECU

The diagram provided is a little fuzzy, the one on APEX usa is a lot nicer. Go to the top of page 4. US FD3S, 91-96 is image Z-3a. To get to the ECU, remove the passenger door sill (plastic trim piece, then the panel in the right of the footwell. The ECU is there. Remove the harness connections carefully.

Look here


5) How to make the turbo timer work with the factory alarm.

From http://www.rx7turboturbo.com/robrobi...turbotimer.htm

How To Make the Stock Alarm Work With a Turbo Timer
This mod will allow the stock alarm system to be armed when the key is removed from the ignition with the vehicle idling using a turbo timer. Make sure you disconnect the negative cable to the battery before performing this mod.
The 20 pin connector from the car’s alarm CPU located behind the driver's left foot kick panel (see below, this is not the main ECU) has 2 wires you need to look at, cut wire 1C (Black with Yellow) and tape up the non-ECU end (it goes to the ignition switch). Using a splice connector connect the ECU end of wire 1C into wire 1B (white).
How to Identify the Alarm CPU
My 93 manual shows a half decent picture on page Z3-9. I found the page number last night... Remove the drivers left foot kick panel (have to remove the plastic door sill). On my 93 Touring, from the edge of the door working forward green door lock relay blue (relay?) with some big wires ECU #2, black .
It is the largest box, black. About 2 3/8" by 6.5" (without wire or bolt attaching points). The box gets thicker in the bottom half, right below the 20-pin connector. A 10 (?) pin connector in the upper left corner, the 20-pin maybe 1/3 of the way down, 2 connector ports out of the bottom but only the right one is used. I'd try and draw a picture, but it didn't work too well the last time...
Steve Stover
Note the following though

jmo87: ok, here is how I did mine. http://www.rx7turboturbo.com/robrob..._turbotimer.htm . It works. It's weird though. After you get out of the car you have to shut the door and then open it back up and lock it from the inside and then hold the handle up as you shut the door. You will hear it beep when you push the lock lever thing. But it's that easy. It only took me a few minutes. And I know what ya mean having to wait to set it. I used to have to do that here at school. it sucks! good luck
Old 07-18-02, 08:34 PM
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Comments please?

Can someone tell me why we are supposed to ground to the ECU???
Old 05-04-03, 07:56 PM
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Followup related to Gauge installs.

The Apexi Turbo Timer harness makes gauge connections a snap. If you don't have a Turbo Timer, get the harness if you are going to run electrical gauges.

There are 3 main wires in the harness, Red Blue and Green. Red is 12V power (unswitched), Blue is Ignition. I ran ground elsewhere. Illumination is 1 of the ashtray lightbulb wired. I forget which one.
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