Apex Intake Installation Problems
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I can't tell you that much about the commander. Mine went off the AVCR i had. Like I said As a LAST resort put the stocker back on. I think you'll have the same boost problem regardless of which intake is on. Try checking the actuator rods and make sure they are still hooked onto the proper places. They have little E/C-clips that hold them on. They need to be replaced whenever they are removed/ or they get old and fall off as I had happen. I know that is a stretch but without seeing it I'm running out of ideas.
I can't tell you that much about the commander. Mine went off the AVCR i had. Like I said As a LAST resort put the stocker back on. I think you'll have the same boost problem regardless of which intake is on. Try checking the actuator rods and make sure they are still hooked onto the proper places. They have little E/C-clips that hold them on. They need to be replaced whenever they are removed/ or they get old and fall off as I had happen. I know that is a stretch but without seeing it I'm running out of ideas.
Can you reach in the turbo inlet and feel for any excessive shaft play? Rotate it and see if it goes smoothly and no grinding and contact. I believe somewhere there is a "paper test?" to see if clearence is good between housing and blades.
I know for a fact that there is no shaft play.
The turbo's are new. Only about 40K Miles.
I can hear the turbo's wind up now but I figure that is because I have the new open intakes instead of the stock box.
I mean, if one of my vacc lines were bad, wouldn't that mean i would have no boost?
What is with the backfiring during WOT around 6000 RPMS?
The turbo's are new. Only about 40K Miles.
I can hear the turbo's wind up now but I figure that is because I have the new open intakes instead of the stock box.
I mean, if one of my vacc lines were bad, wouldn't that mean i would have no boost?
What is with the backfiring during WOT around 6000 RPMS?
Originally posted by NorthwindHost
I was just wondering on the third picture, what is that?
I was just wondering on the third picture, what is that?
What is what? The brown thing is the charge relief valve
Originally found on http://www.autosportracetech.com/RX-...leshooting.htm
Test for leakage and operation. With nothing connected to port (A), verify that port (B) can hold 15 psi of pressure and/or that port (C) can hold 30 inHg. With a vacuum tester apply 6.5-9.3 inHg of vacuum to port (A), verify air will flow from port (B) to port (C). The Charge Relief Valve vents boost during the pre-spin stage of the Secondary Turbocharger, (3,000 to 4,500 RPM). The Charge Control Valve isolates the Primary Turbocharger boost from the Secondary Turbocharger during the pre-spin stage. After 4,500 RPM the Charge Relief Valve is closed to allow Secondary boost to be added to Primary boost. Note that the operating points of the Charge Relief Valve are different from the Air Bypass Valve, but can be interchanged temporarily for testing.
Test for leakage and operation. With nothing connected to port (A), verify that port (B) can hold 15 psi of pressure and/or that port (C) can hold 30 inHg. With a vacuum tester apply 6.5-9.3 inHg of vacuum to port (A), verify air will flow from port (B) to port (C). The Charge Relief Valve vents boost during the pre-spin stage of the Secondary Turbocharger, (3,000 to 4,500 RPM). The Charge Control Valve isolates the Primary Turbocharger boost from the Secondary Turbocharger during the pre-spin stage. After 4,500 RPM the Charge Relief Valve is closed to allow Secondary boost to be added to Primary boost. Note that the operating points of the Charge Relief Valve are different from the Air Bypass Valve, but can be interchanged temporarily for testing.
It could also be that the Charge Control Actuator is staying open so boost is escaping back into the secondary below 4500 rpms, where it shouldn't be.
These both have nothing to do with installing the intake, but could be problems.
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trickster
2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992)
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Jul 1, 2023 04:40 PM




