Anyone use this device to change their oil?
http://www.griotsgarage.com/catalog.jsp?&SKU=10122
It looks like it would make oil changes very easy and quick to do but I don't know if it's capable of pulling out all the old oil. Anyone use this or a similar device? |
wow! looks like a great product!
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Good stuff man. That would def. make it 10X easier for me to change my oil, since it's so freakin hard to get underneath my car w/ the body kit and all... Oh and that's the same company that makes the super low profile jack, too. Good company...
Sidenote: poorboyracing, do you have any other pics of your car and your rims? Looks sweet! :bigthumb: |
um, no.
doubt its any better and probably takes longer cause you have to wait for that stupid shit to make its way out or sit there pumping till it does. |
Originally Posted by alberto_mg
um, no.
doubt its any better and probably takes longer cause you have to wait for that stupid shit to make its way out or sit there pumping till it does. Oh and I don't think you have to keep pumping for it to fill. You basically create negative pressure, and once the oil gets going, it'll continue to come out until there's no oil left. |
Get ramps. There about $20. If you you need the car level you should have plenty of room to use your mechanical jack on the rear.
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Originally Posted by salamander
Get ramps. There about $20. If you you need the car level you should have plenty of room to use your mechanical jack on the rear.
When I don't feel like dealing w/ this whole ordeal, I just drive up to Jiffy Lube, where I know a couple of guys. They let me drive into the bay the wrong way about halfway lol (so I won't have clearance issues) and do my thing :) |
Rhino Ramps work pretty good. Only if you have 255 series or smaller up front. Also you may have to drive on some blocks first to get up the ramps if you have a kit or you car is really low. I use some of my old Accounting books. (best use I've ever had for a $100 book) Rhino Ramps can be found for $19-$25 at lots of auto stores or your local evil Wal*Mart.
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my jack doesnt fit under my car even with the bumpers off. i have wooden ramps, they were free to make and are easy to use.
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Originally Posted by the_glass_man
Rhino Ramps work pretty good. Only if you have 255 series or smaller up front. Also you may have to drive on some blocks first to get up the ramps if you have a kit or you car is really low. I use some of my old Accounting books. (best use I've ever had for a $100 book) Rhino Ramps can be found for $19-$25 at lots of auto stores or your local evil Wal*Mart.
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Nice product.I would like to know anyone has one.
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Originally Posted by 1revn3rdgen
Nice product.I would like to know anyone has one.
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Ive been using this product for 2 years. This thing is the best thing since sliced bread. You might find it cheaper at a boating supply shop or site (it's actually a boating accessory) The manufacturer is Tempo Products and it is called an "oil boy". I change my oil every 1K simply because its so easy. You have no idea how neat and uncomplicated an oil change can be.
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Originally Posted by iluvmy3rdgen
As for piston motors they aren't good because they tend not to pick up the slight metal shavings that usually accumulate in the botttom of the oil pan. But i don't see why it wouldn't work since we have the apex seals on metal not metal on metal.
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this is ideal for the lazy man
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I have one and it works great. The trick is to warm up the car to thin the oil and stir up any sludge in the bottom first. You shove the hose down the dipstick hole, pump it up until there is a good vacuum and after a few minutes all the oil will be drained. It beats having to jack up the car to drain the oil.
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Its always a good idea to warm the car up before an oil change.
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Originally Posted by Gamezilla
Um, what are apex seals made of?
His point was that in a piston engine, the metal shavings will go directly to the oil pan underneith and collect at the bottom. In a rotary this wont happen because how would the metal to metal shavings from the apex seals re-enter the oiling system? Think about it! Ususally if you find metal in rotary engines oil is because of the oil scraper rings of the rotors slightly scraping away the chrome on the side housing...not the apex seals. |
It's used by the boat owners, mostly, since they can't just open the drain plug and throw the oil out.
Not worth it,,, |
Originally Posted by t-von
His point was that in a piston engine, the metal shavings will go directly to the oil pan underneith and collect at the bottom. In a rotary this wont happen because how would the metal to metal shavings from the apex seals re-enter the oiling system? Think about it! Ususally if you find metal in rotary engines oil is because of the oil scraper rings of the rotors slightly scraping away the chrome on the side housing...not the apex seals.
Thank you :), there may have been confusion but the only oil that meets an apex seal in my mind is from pre-mix or the omp. |
what i think is really good about it is you can get the oil from around the drain plug that never comes out since the hole the plud goes into is a little raised up. if your car is level or on a tilt it will never get that oil out,you'd have to drop the pan to get it properly. imo
mike |
Originally Posted by scratchjunkie
this is ideal for the lazy man
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I doubt my car sits as low as FDNewbie's, but getting the car up on ramps (then stands) is still the biggest time consuming job for changing oil. I'm just not seeing the metal shavings thing as much of an issue. Use a good filter. And since the oil cooler(s) don't really drain anyway, possibly leaving behind a couple more ounces of oil is no big deal. It'd also be handy for draining the transmission and diff when it's time too. For those who tend to procrastinate, or who track their car and want/need to change more often, it could be a real plus.
Other than the cost, where's the downside? |
Originally Posted by Sgtblue
I doubt my car sits as low as FDNewbie's, but getting the car up on ramps (then stands) is still the biggest time consuming job for changing oil.
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Yeah and its not even that expensive, add up time spent putting the car up to get to do the change and after a few changes you will have spent more than enough time to spend the money.
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Originally Posted by FDNewbie
Absolutely. I still haven't figured out how you guys get the car onto the ramps w/o having them slide back on you. You definitely need someone's help guiding you up the ramp, plus to hold the ramps in place (which is real difficult) etc. 99% of the time, me changing the oil on all the household cars is me doing it ALONE. No one's there to help out. So this product seems like a dream. While undoing the filter on one car, the other car is already draining, etc
2. Cut it in half with a 45-degree angle. It doesn't have to be exact. 3. Cut a ~2-foot piece off of each of the halves, again with a 45-degree angle. 4. Take the short piece and nail it onto the top of the longer piece with the square ends flush and the far edge of the angled end down. _____________________ |_____________________\____________________ |__________________________________________\ There you have it. Two little ramps that you can put in front of the tires by yourself and then drive up on to get enough clearance to get a jack under the front. They won't slide out from in front of the tires because it's a very gradual transition. |
Its ideal for tranny fluid, but for the oil hummmmm
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Originally Posted by jimlab
1. Buy a 12-foot 2x12.
2. Cut it in half with a 45-degree angle. It doesn't have to be exact. 3. Cut a ~2-foot piece off of each of the halves, again with a 45-degree angle. 4. Take the short piece and nail it onto the top of the longer piece with the square ends flush and the far edge of the angled end down. _____________________ |_____________________\____________________ |__________________________________________\ There you have it. Two little ramps that you can put in front of the tires by yourself and then drive up on to get enough clearance to get a jack under the front. They won't slide out from in front of the tires because it's a very gradual transition. I LOVE the illustration :p: Actually, my body shop has this: ___________ |___________\_______________ |___________________________\_________________ |_____________________________________________\ He made it himself, looks like it'll only take a couple hours to make. It's not wide enough though, of course I can just make mine wider. But guess what? We STILL have to have someone (not me lol) hold the blocks w/ their feet so they don't slide backward, even though the edges are cut at at 45 degree angle. Go figure... |
Originally Posted by FDNewbie
Jim,
I LOVE the illustration :p: Actually, my body shop has this: ___________ |___________\_______________ |___________________________\_________________ |_____________________________________________\ He made it himself, looks like it'll only take a couple hours to make. It's not wide enough though, of course I can just make mine wider. But guess what? We STILL have to have someone (not me lol) hold the blocks w/ their feet so they don't slide backward, even though the edges are cut at at 45 degree angle. Go figure... If you drive up to the board and try to push your way up onto it, you're going to push it ahead of the tire. If you put it a few inches in front of the tire and get a short run at it, you'll pop right up onto the boards. If you wedge the front of it under the tire, you should also be able to get up on it without it moving. The reason I only recommend a "double-decker" is because it gives you a good couple of feet to be able to stop on before going over the back of the ramp, and if you do go over the back of the ramp, it's low enough that it won't contact your floor pan. |
Originally Posted by jimlab
Jeez, I've never once had to have someone hold the boards for me, even doing all four wheels at once. Go figure... :)
If you drive up to the board and try to push your way up onto it, you're going to push it ahead of the tire. If you put it a few inches in front of the tire and get a short run at it, you'll pop right up onto the boards. If you wedge the front of it under the tire, you should also be able to get up on it without it moving. The reason I only recommend a "double-decker" is because it gives you a good couple of feet to be able to stop on before going over the back of the ramp, and if you do go over the back of the ramp, it's low enough that it won't contact your floor pan. |
Originally Posted by FDNewbie
I dunno what to say, Jim. I guess we're all not as talented as you are :p:
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Originally Posted by jimlab
Apparently not. :)
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I made the 3-level one. At the time it was for leveling my pop-up trailer on an uneven campsite. (no, my FB doesn't tow it, my suburban does).
It works well for oil changes and any time you need to drain the coolant. It never slides when driving up on it either. |
I had 2x12's screwed to my garage floor at FD width to get the car over the lift.
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Originally Posted by FDNewbie
Jim,
We STILL have to have someone (not me lol) hold the blocks w/ their feet so they don't slide backward, even though the edges are cut at at 45 degree angle. Go figure... |
Kindof back on topic...Herblenny and I use this to change the oil on our 7s. He also has another one dedicated to doing coolant flushes. This is great for someone who doesn't want to hassle with jacking the car up. You just put the hose in...give it some pumps to get the pressure going, and walk away. Come back every few minutes to give it a couple more pumps and you're done. It's kindof nice being able to just pop the hood and change the oil without worrying about jacks/jackstands/dripping oil/etc. I'm sure its not for everybody, but it is really nice.
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Originally Posted by FDNewbie
Absolutely. I still haven't figured out how you guys get the car onto the ramps w/o having them slide back on you. You definitely need someone's help guiding you up the ramp, plus to hold the ramps in place (which is real difficult) .........
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Go to a boating supply store, like West Marine, and look the the "Top Sider".
I have one dedicated for oil-changes, and another for anti-freeze and water (like when you need to drain a stopped up sink or toilet). They are about $39 or $49 and hold the same amount and can be transported much easier than Griot's to your nearest recycler. :-) neil |
Am I understanding that people are changing oil while the car is on a jack or ramps? With the drain plug not at the rear of the pan, how much extra undrained oil is being left in the pan? Considering that you can't get at up to 1.5 quarts (R1/R2), thats more unchanged oil being left unchanged for no reason.
These oil extractors are most likely getting more oil out with one quarter of the effort. I promise you these puppies work! |
Originally Posted by diyman25
you can alway push your CAR. that what I alway do for ramp. and put anti slide paper under you ramp they kind da look like a sand paper.
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FDnewbie I've gone through the same crap as you with the stock jack then the regular jack. I also used to use the ramps with those extensions...boy was that scary. Like you said the tires were wider than the damn ramp. I stopped using the ramps when I finally drove off one with my altima...if that had been my FD it would have been hundreds of dollars worth of damage. This gizmo seems like a worth while investment. It won't work for all cars though since with many cars you can only take the oil filter off from underneath, so you'd need to jack the car up anyway.
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Originally Posted by Rhode_Dog
You mean like grip tape (the stuff that goes on the part of a skateboard you stand on?)
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Boy, you guys having problems with the ramps must have little patience. Yes, my tires are larger than the ramp (275s), but as long as they're fairly centered, no drama. The ones I have are the same basic type you see at auto parts stores-- they're stamped steel, and have two plastic removeable lips to help the tire roll up the ramp by easing the angle of attack. I use mine on the smooth concrete floor of my garage, and have no problem with driving onto them, as long as I do it smoothly and slowly; yes, if you try to do it too quickly, they will slide, but take it easy and it's no drama (I'd like to see someone stop one that is sliding with just their foot or somehow "hold it"...). I also don't need to have someone guide me up the ramps; I basically sight it first, then drive up onto the ramps to determine where the tire is "landing"-- if I need to make any adjustments, I just roll back, adjust, and drive up again to check. It never takes me more than two tries. It's called "taking your time to do things carefully"....
I've used a small level on the bottom of the oil pan to determine how high the rear needs to be to get a decent drain. |
Originally Posted by R. Gambino
Am I understanding that people are changing oil while the car is on a jack or ramps?...how much extra undrained oil is being left in the pan? These oil extractors are most likely getting more oil out with one quarter of the effort. I promise you these puppies work!
Still, I'm liking the idea of this pump. |
Originally Posted by academytim
Kindof back on topic...Herblenny and I use this to change the oil on our 7s. He also has another one dedicated to doing coolant flushes. This is great for someone who doesn't want to hassle with jacking the car up. You just put the hose in...give it some pumps to get the pressure going, and walk away. Come back every few minutes to give it a couple more pumps and you're done. It's kindof nice being able to just pop the hood and change the oil without worrying about jacks/jackstands/dripping oil/etc. I'm sure its not for everybody, but it is really nice.
Originally Posted by widebody2
FDnewbie I've gone through the same crap as you with the stock jack then the regular jack. I also used to use the ramps with those extensions...boy was that scary. Like you said the tires were wider than the damn ramp. I stopped using the ramps when I finally drove off one with my altima...if that had been my FD it would have been hundreds of dollars worth of damage. This gizmo seems like a worth while investment. It won't work for all cars though since with many cars you can only take the oil filter off from underneath, so you'd need to jack the car up anyway.
Kento, widebody2 said it for me. I'm NOT about to guess whether I'm lined up or not, or whether the car is far enough forward on the ramps w/o being able to see... EVERY SINGLE shop I've seen in my LIFE has someone to direct the driver (who's also employed at the shop) as to how far forward or back to go, and to move right or left, and that's for aligning the car for a LIFT - so there's MUCH more room for error. Can you do it? Sure. Do I wanna risk it? HELL no...no thanks...not me. |
Since this thread has been hijacked by ramps over original subject......I'll go ahead and add my $.02. First off the oil you guys are so worried about getting to (left in the pan around the drain) is such a small amount compared to all the oil left in the oil cooler and lines. You "NEVER" get all the old oil out of the system, so wether you use the pump or the gravity method you'll only get most of what's in the pan any way. Jack
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Originally Posted by FDNewbie
Kento, widebody2 said it for me. I'm NOT about to guess whether I'm lined up or not, or whether the car is far enough forward on the ramps w/o being able to see... EVERY SINGLE shop I've seen in my LIFE has someone to direct the driver (who's also employed at the shop) as to how far forward or back to go, and to move right or left, and that's for aligning the car for a LIFT - so there's MUCH more room for error.
Can you do it? Sure. Do I wanna risk it? HELL no...no thanks...not me. I'll veer back on topic a bit. While the convenience factor of this pump deal is nice, one of the reasons I don't mind the "hassle" of either jacking up the car or rolling it up on ramps is that getting underneath the car also allows you to periodically check out portions of the chassis and engine that you'd never be able to see otherwise (suspension components, sway bar mounts, transmission, possible oil pan leaks, etc.), thus ensuring that you'll be heading off any potential problems before they get any worse. My $0.04.... |
does the hose fit in the oil dip stick holder? i was thinking the holder was real small. also our drain plugs are magentic so you still need to take it off manually to clean any metal pieces that have stuck to it, because tehre are some every so often.
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I been using that for my FD's and my other cars for past 2.5 years.. You could also use it to drain your cooling system and much more.. I also have the one man brake bleeder from Griot's.. Awesome products and worth the money.
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Originally Posted by Kento
(no offense Ramy :p: just poking fun at your caps usage... :) )
I'll veer back on topic a bit. While the convenience factor of this pump deal is nice, one of the reasons I don't mind the "hassle" of either jacking up the car or rolling it up on ramps is that getting underneath the car also allows you to periodically check out portions of the chassis and engine that you'd never be able to see otherwise (suspension components, sway bar mounts, transmission, possible oil pan leaks, etc.), thus ensuring that you'll be heading off any potential problems before they get any worse. My $0.04.... Phil, didja get yours from Griot's too? |
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