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Anyone know how to bypass CPU #2 for power widows?

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Old Jul 24, 2023 | 10:35 AM
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Dis7rictX's Avatar
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Anyone know how to bypass CPU #2 for power widows?

The cpu#2 under the dash on my car went bad so I no longer have power windows. Anyone know how to hard wire/bypass the cpu #2 to get my power windows to work again. Thanks
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Old Jul 24, 2023 | 01:17 PM
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From: Stuart Florida
Hey there same problem but never was able to figure it out definitely curious to see the answer.
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Old Jul 24, 2023 | 01:41 PM
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its pretty basic.... there are a lot of videos on youtube on how to make it work. dont get caught up in the idea of the flasher relay being necessary or having to "bypass it". your circumstance breaks down simply to wiring a window motor to a toggle switch.

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Old Jul 24, 2023 | 03:12 PM
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The CPU#2 has nothing to do with the power window circuit in the FD. For reference, here's the schematic diagram of the power window circuit from the FD FSM/wiring diagram section. Most likely problem is the 30A fuse blew, or the window switch contacts are burned out.



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Old Jul 24, 2023 | 04:11 PM
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It is not the fuse and I have a new switch so it wouldn't be the contacts. I traced the wiring back and it leads to a blue and white connector in the CPU #2. I noticed I have power at the connector before the Cpu but nothing at the connector between the fender/door.

Originally Posted by Pete_89T2
The CPU#2 has nothing to do with the power window circuit in the FD. For reference, here's the schematic diagram of the power window circuit from the FD FSM/wiring diagram section. Most likely problem is the 30A fuse blew, or the window switch contacts are burned out.


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Old Jul 24, 2023 | 05:18 PM
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From: Elkton, MD
Originally Posted by Dis7rictX
It is not the fuse and I have a new switch so it wouldn't be the contacts. I traced the wiring back and it leads to a blue and white connector in the CPU #2. I noticed I have power at the connector before the Cpu but nothing at the connector between the fender/door.
Take another look at that FSM schematic - CPU#2 is not part of the FD's PW circuit, period. So you may have traced back the wrong bunch of wires if what you traced terminates in CPU#2.

What are the specific problems you're having with the windows? Were they working properly before "CPU#2 went bad"?
  • Using driver's side switch: Driver's AND passenger side window fails to go up or down? Driver's OR passenger side window fails to go up or down?
  • Using the passenger side switch: Does the passenger side window go up/down properly?
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Old Nov 28, 2023 | 07:10 AM
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May be confusing CPU#2 with the Joint Box - which contains CPU#1. The window circuit draws power from the Joint Box yes (connector JB-05, White wire -Blue stripe), but the rest of the circuit is isolated. What sucks is the passenger side stuff runs through the Dash Harness, past the JB, and into the Driver's window switch. So there's quite a few contacts and joints involved. Black and Yellow, and Black and White wires from Door to Door.
Is the window lock on? Could be a simple overlook there as well.
If it's both windows not working - recheck the driver's switch, jump White/Blue to Green and see if it goes down. If that doesn't work, you either don't have power/ground at all or the motor is gone. If it's a not power issue (check with a multimeter) then boom - new motor. If it's a power issue, well then hopefully its a fuse and not something much worse.
Ground is sticking out to me as the likely culprit - whole system grounds through the Driver's switch

CPU#2 does go into the Door Harnesses for the locks to integrate into the alarm, but not the windows.
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