BlouZbee

iTrader: (7)

at first i thought it was the step motor for my profec because it doesn't do it with the profec off, but after a few passengers listening for me its the gauge.

its the same one sold at rx7store model 3301. i know its a cheap gauge but i honestly like the way it looks and matches the stock gauges. i dont want go defi BF until i secure a flyrx7 tri 60mm pod.....that could be years at this rate

so does this happen to anyone else and if so how did u fix it? i dont want to buy another if this is common. i assume most people share the vac source(uim nipple) for their boost gauge and boost controller so my setup is normal.

comments, help, suggestions appreciated. thank you.

Gadd

Yes Autometer gauges are China built garbage. But you can stop the rattling by putting a restriction in the line to the boost gauge. A carburetor jet or even a pill from a turbo control line will do the trick.

Paul


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BlouZbee

iTrader: (7)

that wont effect accuracy?

pwwatkins

I bet it is your profec b. Mine does it too. I have an autometer boost guage and I get the ticking but it's not from the guage and it only does it with the ebc on.

BlouZbee

iTrader: (7)

same symptoms but i think its the gauge.

4CN A1R

iTrader: (6)

mine clicks and ticks while under boost and it bugs the **** outa me. it doesnt always work correctly either. ever since it was installed, vac pressure isnt reading correctly and it sometimes doesnt show any boost.(i know this because i tested it using friends boost gauges)

4CN A1R

iTrader: (6)

i have extra pills to use, but wont that throw off your reading? it is, in theory, restricting boost...

Gadd

Nope, but it will dampen the pulses of pressure from the manifold that make the gauge rattle. It will slow the over all response of the gauge, but so slightly you can tell. The pressure readings will be the same. If you would like to experiment, just clamp the gauge line so that it's almost closed and go for a drive.

Paul

BillM

iTrader: (4)

this worked for me

http://www.newsouthperformance.com/fitting.htm

BlouZbee

iTrader: (7)

thanks for the advise, unfortunately im gonna have to re plumb the gauge to try that, im using the 1/8 compression tubing that came with the gauge....the hard plastic stuff.

guess im going to the hardware store today

BlouZbee

iTrader: (7)

screw the hardware store.......thanks for the link!

BlouZbee

iTrader: (7)

OK, the restrictor did NOT work. to use the stuff i bought i had to replumb the gauge. this allowed me to troubleshoot further. i disconnected my gauge at a gas station and went back out. now im back to my original assumption......

my profec spec 1 step motor clicks when i boost. im gonna open it up and see what i can see.

squirt some wd40 in there? ideas?

thank you.

4CN A1R

iTrader: (6)

wd40? doesnt seem like that would help much...but you could try it

DaveW

Where did you place the restrictor? If it was very close to the gauge, it's no surprise that it didn't do much. You need a significant volume of air between the restrictor and the gauge to have a "cushioning" effect. Of course, a smaller diameter restictor will need less air volume to accomplish this.

Of course, too much restriction or air volume, and response will suffer. You'll just have to try various setups to get the balance between "ticking" and slow response.

Smitter

what series of gauge are u running?
i have the sport comp series and have been using it for 2 yrs without any issues

BlouZbee

iTrader: (7)

its not the gauge. i unplugged the gauge all together and it still did it, its the profec step motor.

it clicks so much under full boost its like a baseball card in the spokes of a bicycle.

im either gonna relocate it towards the front of the car(if i can find room) or dampen or both. it drives me nuts

BlouZbee

iTrader: (7)

i was unable to find room for that huge stepmotor up front(stock intake) so i was left with only one choice....dampen.

i was at pepboys and i wandered into the audio section.....i picked up some stuff called strike dead mat material. one side is sticky, the other looks like thick aluminum foil. it can be cut with a scissors or exacto knife. i wrapped the stepmotor with this stuff(very neatly) and installed it back in the car with a thick rubber washer between the stepmotor and the fender wall.

CHA CHING! with normal cabin noise(windows up stereo off) i can BARELY hear it. with the window open not at all. im SO happy with the results. best part is it only cost 20 bucks and i have a full sheet of it left.

MrNizzles

iTrader: (5)

Now you should rip out the entire interior, from the firewall to the tail lights and install that sound dead material you just bought.. but you'll need more