Another Reason to ALWAYS Run the Undertray
#77
development
rynberg - I noticed you are running Earls coolers...upon searching oil cooler set-ups, I found a statement that noted, you should not mount the coolers by the ears, Earls has some money making brakets/tension rod kits they sell. Just a thought...it appears that your ears are bent, is that the due to mounting or the "snag"?
got any pics with you bumper on?
got any pics with you bumper on?
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Originally Posted by John Magnuson
Interesting...
Originally Posted by GUITARJUNKIE28
check the wheel bearings
Originally Posted by dubulup
rynberg - I noticed you are running Earls coolers...upon searching oil cooler set-ups, I found a statement that noted, you should not mount the coolers by the ears, Earls has some money making brakets/tension rod kits they sell. Just a thought...it appears that your ears are bent, is that the due to mounting or the "snag"?
got any pics with you bumper on?
got any pics with you bumper on?
No finished pics...but I'll be posting a bunch of pics of several different projects pretty soon. There's really not much to see....the entire openings are filled with silver cooling rows... The RE kit mounts the coolers very close to the bumper openings (unlike the CWC kit).
Oh and BTW, finally got a break in the rain and took the red beast out Sat night....from a roll on in first, no traction after 3500 rpm, shift into 2nd, tires start spinning after transition until redline shift into 3rd, at which point the tires finally hook-up, cocking the entire car sideways. Haha, good clean fun! I need better tires....(265/35 Toyo T1-S).
Last edited by rynberg; 04-24-06 at 06:20 PM.
#79
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Originally Posted by rynberg
Oh and BTW, finally got a break in the rain and took the red beast out Sat night....from a roll on in first, no traction after 3500 rpm, shift into 2nd, tires start spinning after transition until redline shift into 3rd, at which point the tires finally hook-up, cocking the entire car sideways. Haha, good clean fun! I need better tires....(265/35 Toyo T1-S).
Put some R compounds on it and take it to the track!
#82
development
Originally Posted by rynberg
No finished pics...but I'll be posting a bunch of pics of several different projects pretty soon. There's really not much to see....the entire openings are filled with silver cooling rows... The RE kit mounts the coolers very close to the bumper openings (unlike the CWC kit).
sounds like one hell of a ride!! I can remember the days of seq and having the rear start to kick out as soon as I floored it...then kick out the other way after the transistion.
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anyone interested can get some good info from here:
http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp_knockback.shtml
if one of your wheel bearings is more loose or worn than the others, you can get more pad knock on one side than the other. this could certainly cause it to jerk while braking.
try this: drive in a straight line and hit the brakes a couple times... does the pulling lessen after pressing the brakes a few times?
now go make some turns--doesn't have to be a canyon run, but maybe scrub the tires nascar style a bit, then hit the brakes. does it jerk more the first time the brakes are applied?
http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp_knockback.shtml
if one of your wheel bearings is more loose or worn than the others, you can get more pad knock on one side than the other. this could certainly cause it to jerk while braking.
try this: drive in a straight line and hit the brakes a couple times... does the pulling lessen after pressing the brakes a few times?
now go make some turns--doesn't have to be a canyon run, but maybe scrub the tires nascar style a bit, then hit the brakes. does it jerk more the first time the brakes are applied?
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Originally Posted by dubulup
Does that size cooler allow you to run the oil cooler undertrays? Are you monitoring oil temp? Last question, I promise...can you give me an idea of your air intake temps vs ambient (15psi, correct?)
I haven't been running this new tune at 15 psi long enough to get much AIT data. The other night it was about 50F out, I would guess, and my intake temps were in the low 40s C after some boosting, pretty much in the high 20s-low 30s C otherwise.
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Originally Posted by GUITARJUNKIE28
if one of your wheel bearings is more loose or worn than the others, you can get more pad knock on one side than the other. this could certainly cause it to jerk while braking.
try this: drive in a straight line and hit the brakes a couple times... does the pulling lessen after pressing the brakes a few times?
now go make some turns--doesn't have to be a canyon run, but maybe scrub the tires nascar style a bit, then hit the brakes. does it jerk more the first time the brakes are applied?
try this: drive in a straight line and hit the brakes a couple times... does the pulling lessen after pressing the brakes a few times?
now go make some turns--doesn't have to be a canyon run, but maybe scrub the tires nascar style a bit, then hit the brakes. does it jerk more the first time the brakes are applied?
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