Exactly, it is things like what happened to rynberg that are the reason I am retaining the undertray with my v-mount.

 

Not all of us are that care free!

I don’t think it is a lack of wanting one or feeling that they need one, it is a lack of any availability of a part that would function in this way, and have correct fitment.



And no a V mount does not sit all that low as to make it dangerous. But I do fear the exact unfortunate thing that happed to Ryanberg. Hence the effort to protect myself.





Ryanberg, we all wish you a speedy recovery, I think we can see just by the way you take care of your car how much of a bummer this was for you. Good luck with the restoration.

 

Just thought I'd chime in w/ an idea here... I'm not quite sure how well the plastic stock undertray would have held up to a rock of that size hehe, and just how much protection it would have offered (of course, some is better than none at all). But on that note, anyone ever consider making an undertray out of a more sturdy metal? I came across this prototype undertray for SW20 MR2's (that's almost in full production), and it's made out of aluminum IIRC. I'd say not only is it functional aeorodynamically, but it would offer excellent protection against bumps, rocks, bottoming out, etc... maybe we can implement something similar to it in our FD's?

~Ramy

 

Damn, Tyler forgetting to put on his undertray reminds me of when I was changing my oil, and I got side tracked talking to a guy with a WRX at the local hobby shop on base (NAVY). I forgot to put on my new oil filter, and my new oil I put in was every where. LOL I felt like an idiot.

 

Ramy, I would put money down that the OEM plastic undertray would survive much larger impacts than any metal undertray you would use (unless you want to hang 30 lbs of plate steel off the front end!).

I have zero doubts that the plastic undertray would have prevented any damage to the oil lines...although who knows what would have happened then.



SHE'S ALIVE! Going for a warm-up drive after I get cleaned up....the brake rotors are solid rust from sitting for 2 months during the rainy season. Got to "clear the cobwebs out"....

 

fawk yeah!

 

There are probably few here that haven't made similar mistakes...or at least come close. It's the "routine", "I've done it a thousand times", "do it in your sleep" things you get cavalier about that can bite you in the *** sometimes.

 

crazy

 

[QUOTE=FDNewbie]Just thought I'd chime in w/ an idea here... I'm not quite sure how well the plastic stock undertray would have held up to a rock of that size hehe, and just how much protection it would have offered (of course, some is better than none at all). But on that note, anyone ever consider making an undertray out of a more sturdy metal? I came across this prototype undertray for SW20 MR2's (that's almost in full production), and it's made out of aluminum IIRC. I'd say not only is it functional aeorodynamically, but it would offer excellent protection against bumps, rocks, bottoming out, etc... maybe we can implement something similar to it in our FD's?

~Ramy

[quote/]

This has been talked about alot. If you can get that made for a decent price I would have to let you have sex with my girlfriend or something

 

How come? I'm curious as to what makes you think the plastic would hold up better than a metal undertray... The only thing that comes to mind is the plastic undertray would be destroyed, which would in effect dissipate some of the force from the impact...?

~Ramy

 

Think about it Ramy. Do you honestly think hitting a rock would destroy the OEM undertray? It's very thick and heavy plastic. At most, I would think it would rip the undertray loose at the mounting points.

A metal undertray on the other hand would be crushed in and punctured. Go back and look at my pictures. The underbody sheet metal fairing was totally punched in and destroyed. This would not have happened to the OEM undertray.


Anyway, I didn't get a chance to drive her due to more heavy rain (record levels this year already). However, she idled smoothly and revved to redline just fine sitting in the driveway, so I feel OK about the motor now.

 

One problem with a metal undertray would be the lack of elasticity. A plastic one would take an impact, then pop back into normal shape, whereas a metal one would just dent in, possibly rubbing up against something like a hose, and wearing a hole in it causing a leak. Also, I suppose a large enough dent/hole in a metal undertray could (?) affect the aerodynamics at highspeed.

 

depends if we are talking undertray or rally style sump guard here! an 8mm sheet of steel would not bend and puncture, you could drive over a damn boulder and itd just bounce.

However, obviously there is the weight factor.

 

I just realized that I should probably update this thread.

I got everything back together a couple of weekends ago. The motor and turbos seem fine. Whoohooh!

 

Good to hear. Are you going to make it to Mazfest?

 

Hey John, sorry I haven't replied to your PM yet.

I don't know if I'm making Mazfest or not...I'm now having some instability during braking. This is with almost $3k of completely new brakes on the car -- NOT HAPPY. I'll have to start troubleshooting the ABS/proportioning system me thinks.

 

You don't need brakes for Buttonwillow!

Front rear bias type instability? What brake system?


I hope you make to Mazfest!

-John

 

Hey Tyler, what size is your wheels and tires?

 

Haha...I see they're running the Star Mazda turn....hardest braking config there is!

The car is completely unstable under hard braking, but it's not consistent. A couple of times, the steering wheel has actually yanked in my hand upon brake application. I'm running Stoptech fronts (custom for 99 rears) and 99 rears.

 

Sounds like you have some type of problem where one of the front brakes is grabbing harder on one side than the other. I don't think ABS or a proportioning valve will help. Most likely you have a caliper piston that is sticking on one side... at least that would be my guess. Are the brakes firm? No air?

 

glad to hear all is well... don't forget your vitamins in the morning, AND the undertray

 

I have Enkei RP-01s. Front -- 18x8.5 +45 with 235/40, Rear -- 18x9.5 +45 with 265/35

 

The brakes are pretty firm, but could probably use a bleed just to make them "perfect". Since I had this problem with the old brakes, I don't think it's a problem with the brake hardware, it must be in the hydraulics...

 

Interesting...

... on what type of surface are you experiencing this extreme "jerk" of the wheel to one side or the other? If the surface you are braking on is uneven or of higher friction on one half than the other you will get a really hard jerk to the wheel. I've had this happen to me before. Kind of like when you try to brake hard at the track with some of the wheels up on a smooth berm.

 

check the wheel bearings