I bought a 93 touring a while back that was not running figuring if I could get it running I'd drive it around a while and tinker with it and if it had bad apex seals I'd throw a new motor in it. The car had sat for ~3 months when I got it and so I threw new plugs/oil in it, reconnected the MAP sensor since the vacuum line was disconnecrted when I got it, and did the MMO treatment and it has compression by the scientific pull the plugs and feel for consistent puffs from the holes with your finger test The car is getting spark and fuel, so I tow-started it and got it running relatively easily, but the car does not want to continue running without some serious throttle work and had very little power (felt like it was towing a 5k lb trailer). The power it did have was consistent though, so I'm assuming it is firing on each face of the rotors. After around 400' the guy that tow started me started flashing his lights so I pulled over and the cat was glowing red. Assuming the problem must have been a clogged pre or main cat I installed a DP and MP (I know I need fuel control to run a MP, but I'll handle that after I get it running), but the car still doesn't want to run. Now I'm kind of thinking I might have some stuck injectors and they are just dumping fuel in the motor which is making the car run so crappy. I'm kind of at my wits end on this and could really use some insight from someone that has a little more rotary experience and has been down this road before., so any help would be greatly appreciated.

 

First step would be to get yourself a Factory Service Manual, if you don't already have one. After that, check for proper fuel pressure, check for spark at ALL 4 wires/plugs, and check the voltages on the TPS. Also check the compression using an actual tester (rather than finger). That should at least get you started, and hopefully pointed in the right direction

 

When I lost an apex seal (long time ago) my car ran just as you decscribe.
I would recommend that you do a better compression test than "finger in hole".
Look for around 90-100 psi pulses on each rotor face on a cold motor.

 

do a real compression test. sounds like motor may be blown.

 

Suggestion: Don't buy an FD that does not run, if your fix capability is limited to oil and plug change and MMO.

 

Thanks alot for your help saxy, swilson, and alberto. I've got a copy of the service manual and will test the TPS and MAP sensors to see what kind of voltage they are putting out and I'll borrow a compression tester and see what kind of numbers she puts out.

KevinK2, was there a reason for you post? I'm not trying to be a d!ck, but was that constructive at all or do you just have a lot of free time to surf the forums flaming people that are asking politely for help?

 

hey man like alberto do a compression check

i have a bad feelin the your FD's motor is a done deal

or lost compression in the rear rotor

let us know so we can further access this situation

mike