Monsterbox

iTrader: (6)

Ok this almost makes me want to sell the ******* car.

1. Replaced the starter and solenoid (nsa brand new)
2. ran 10 gauge wiring down to the solenoid from the battery
3. relocated a brand new hawker mini-battery to the storage bin, very clean install with 4 gauge wiring
4. replaced ignition switch

Above is the order I went in trying to solve this problem. No difference between large battery and the relocated small one so its not that.

Exactly what occurs:
Its luck of the draw for 1 of these 4 choices
1. Car turns over very fast first try and cranks right up
2. Loud click from the starter once, twice, three times, then cranks up fast and runs
3. click click click, cranks very slowly with a scratchy fucked up sound, turn key again cranks up normally and fast
4. click click click click....x100 cranks right up.

The chances of the car cranking right up have increased dramtically every time I replace the battery or put a charge on it, or replace the ignition switch. But even with brand new battery's after a few days...goes back to the clicking.

Only thing I can possibly think of: Alternator isnt charging battery back up high enough....so the battery slowly dies over time.

Monsterbox

iTrader: (6)

note:

one time, it actually would not start...loud click of the starter hitting the flywheel but not turing over about 100000000 times....let it sit for 5 mins came back click, turn key, click, turn key click...WOULD NOT ******* START


took a big mallet and hit the starter solenoid and starter under the car a few times. Get back in starts right up.

Note: BRAND NEW STARTER. and did this on the last starter. could it be alignment with the flywheel or something?

zheka

i Had my bad starting issue before but mine was not that it wasn't engaging solenoid, my problem was around starter cut-out switch and ecu.
Did you by any chance had auto to manual swap on yours?

parid

Did the symptoms happen before you replaced the starter? It seems unlikely but, couldn't it just be a defective starter (it must happen to somone at somepoint)?

Are you seeing normal voltages from your alternator and battery (both running and not)? I lost the voltage regulator in mine and it cause all sorts of weird problems.

SpikeDerailed

iTrader: (7)

If you think its the Alt...get out the trusty multimeter and check its output. Its also possible there is a current draw somewhere in the system.

When I worked in a shop everynow and then we had reman'd starters that were defective. It might be in your best interest to take it back and get another. I would think its not the starter to flywheel alignment, because the motor should still spin but the teeth not mesh up when the bendix trys to push the gear out.

Ernesto13B

iTrader: (4)

I have this same problem with my car!! sometimes I turn the key , it starts right away. Other times I gotta turn it 2 or 3 times then it starts up right away. It has a new starter, new ignition switch, new battery and cables. I dont have any money im having financial problems right now ( its not the FD's fault, its my job!!) so I choose to ignore this for now =)

Dudemaaanownsanrx7

iTrader: (23)

you said you ran direct power to the solenoid.. are you using a relay to switch this power on from the key?

Not too long ago someone posted about a starter booster that was supposed to eliminate the click click start problem. All it really was was a few wires that went from the switched ignition +12v on the starter solenoid, to a relay that was grounded and had direct battery current, that then returned to the starter solenoid. But it sounds like you may already have something similar.

Monsterbox

iTrader: (6)

I just have an extra wire running from the fuse box to the starter. Its not the starter, I had the old one checked after pulling it out and it checked out fine. I'm so stumped.

It could possibly be the alternator not charging the battery up all the way...but the car runs with the battery disconnected?

Dudemaaanownsanrx7

iTrader: (23)

from my understanding its not the starter that is under supplied, but the starter solenoid. It's current goes from the battery, through the ignition switch, through the clutch switch and through the security relay before it finally gets to the starter.

Try hooking up a relay from the existing wires on the starter solenoid. The relay will need a ground so find a near by ground. It will need a strong 12v supplyon the switched side, so use the one that comes direct from the battery and goes to the starter. Run the other side of the switched relay to the starter solenoid , and run the 12v that activates the coil inside the relay from the factory wire on the starter solenoid. (the one that comes from the ignition)

That way you turn the key, the relay activates sending direct power from the battery to the starter solenoid.

rosrex7

Have you taken apart the Ignition its self?


i had the click problem till the point where it wouldnt start....
Took apart the ignition there was old goo from 14 yrs of sludge which was preventing a good contact...

the write up::: http://home.att.net/~miataville/
The thread::::https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generation-specific-1993-2002-16/starter-click-click-problem-solved%7E%7E%7E-642253/page2/


Had no more problems

AzEKnightz

iTrader: (24)

I was gonna say the same thing.

But before that, Lets diagnose the system and not guess around.

First if it is clicking, does this mean low battery? To verify, are you able to turn on your lights, AC and etc. How's the brightness of the light compared to a good battery (from history)? Can you get radio etc.... And of course, do a battery test on the battery to ensure 100% that it's good and ready to go.

If battery is good, what else can cause this clicking problem? Well, if it clicking many times, and once it cranked, it started right up? Then I strongly suggest checking you ignition (key switch).

Like rosrex7 mentioned, there was a thread regarding this click click noise us rx7 owner had. All it was bad contact in the switch. Get a brush and clean that stuff off, ensure you have good contact (it's good to check the OHM reading on the ignition switch and make sure it is within specs)

After doing all of these, and if it still click click click then crank. Time to check you relay.

If relay is good, then last but not least, is the ECU.

Start with the basic, dont overlook something small. Like cleaning the ignition contact might fix your problem =)

Good luck and PM me if you need more help.

-AzEKnightz

FD3Smaniac

iTrader: (3)

+1 on the ignition

Dudemaaanownsanrx7

iTrader: (23)

http://www.pettitracing.com/rx7/ignition.htm

badddrx7

iTrader: (7)

Do you have an automatic transmission?? Next time, insert key and if it "clicks" then grab the shifter and move it back of forth in park. There are contacts within the transmission on the linkage that could have poor contacts.



LAter

mad_7tist

it is almost certainly a voltage drop issue on the starter signal wire, assuming the bttery is in fact healthy, that is why bench testing starters and alternators is kind of pointless. disconnecting the battery while running is a useless and dangerous test. iIS NEVER the ecu if it going click click.

Monsterbox

iTrader: (6)

new starter, been threw 3 new batteries, and a new ignition switch after cleaning the old one. I believe its the relay, and if not then i'm adding another relay to the car. which relay is it>

shawnk

I had this problem ever since I bought my car and did all the same things you tried and never fixed it.

Finally I decided to redo the ignition system by adding a relay and rewiring most of the system and it hasn't clicked a single time since. In fact I had totally forgotten this was such a big issue for me.

Unfortunately it has been a while since I did it so I don't remember exactly how I wired it but I think I just put the relay after the ignition so the normal ignition trigger tripped the new relay and that relay came straight from the battery directly to the starter. The way I figured this out was i ran a wire from the battery positive directly to the starter trigger (key off car in neutral on jack stands) and every time I put 12V to the starter it turned over fine.

I also have a push button start, a relocated battery, bypassed the fuel pump 2 staged limiter, and a bunch of other electrical modifications so it is really amazing the car even runs to tell you the truth.

Monsterbox

iTrader: (6)

ok **** it. Sick and tired of chasing this thing around. Spent too much money. Dont want to have a messy wiring job that could ask for problem in the future so I sucked it up and paid too much for the pettit booster.

Should be here soon. Problem hopefully resolved.

ryan1

iTrader: (5)

Mine didn't click very often, but after it warmed up it would crank very slowly. Always fine when cold. After it warmed up it would crank slowly. If you kept letting off the key and trying again, it would usually after mulitple attempts crank fast enough to start. I replaced the 120 amp main fuse, and haven't had any starting problems since. The fuse wasn't blown, ohmed good,and the contacts look clean. I still don't understand how it caused the problems, but replacing it fixed them.

RX7 RAGE

iTrader: (22)

Let us know if it fixes it. I have the same damn annoying problem and it's kinda embarrassing when you're taking you're lady out. LOL

Monsterbox

iTrader: (6)

put the kit in in less than 15 mins...easy as ****..zip tied it to the 12v harness wire. Starts up every ******* time. Mission accomplished best 50 dollars ive ever spent on this car. Dont waste your gas and time trying to find the connections/fuses to put this kit together just suck it up and buy it.

Dudemaaanownsanrx7

iTrader: (23)

Its really a simple kit that could be made for about 10 bucks. Glad that worked for you though! Good job

LAN

iTrader: (1)

Yeh?
Any documentation?
Thanks,

Anyone else tried this?
I don't have this issue on my FD, only on my FC.
Click click click. new starter. charged batt. it's been years since I've had the issue.
Maybe this will fix it. or a starter button for ignition system issue..

Monsterbox

iTrader: (6)

spend the money on it now. it works!!! ive been through 3 batteries, 2 ignition switches, new wiring, new relays, and a new starter/solenoid. These all improved the chances of cranking drastically but never fixed it completely and still had a slow crank. Now with this kit i feel like i could have kept all of the same old stuff and it would have worked perfectly. It uses the orignial weak starter signal that you have (must have some sort of signal to make the click sound) to trigger the relay.

LAN

iTrader: (1)

maybe 30 amp relay, 30amp fuse. 4 wires red/green/yellow/black. 18 guage?