Alternator Upgrades, what'd you use?
Thread Starter
It leaks oil, it has oil.
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 91
Likes: 33
From: Corydon, Indiana
Alternator Upgrades, what'd you use?
With all of the things my car has over OE, I see some dips in my voltage. No dips that are "alarming", but I'd still like to maintain a little higher voltage output with all of my power consumption. What'd you use, and how do you like it? I'll pay for quality, but I'm trying to avoid overpriced rewound junk. TY -W
I've been using the DC Power 180 amp alternator for a little over 4 years now and it's been great! I tried a factory modified 140 amp and 180 amp and they did not last. It's not cheap but looks the part as it's not a factory modified alternator. I've heard they offer alternators for the FD with higher outputs than 180, but they are not advertised on their site.
Another for DC power here. I had the IRP and the diode started to go out after about 4k miles.
Another local friend needed an upgrade. @Rocketeerbandit He went with the JDM version from Japan. Started to show lower Voltage after a few months and he went with DC Power as well.
Just get the DC Power.
Another local friend needed an upgrade. @Rocketeerbandit He went with the JDM version from Japan. Started to show lower Voltage after a few months and he went with DC Power as well.
Just get the DC Power.
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Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 4,678
Likes: 96
From: Bay Area, CA
Bought an ARD alternator from RHDJapan a few weeks ago.
https://www.rhdjapan.com/ard-low-res...-red-fd3s.html
Was about $480 shipped to California.
https://www.rhdjapan.com/ard-low-res...-red-fd3s.html
Was about $480 shipped to California.
Thread Starter
It leaks oil, it has oil.
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 91
Likes: 33
From: Corydon, Indiana
Bought an ARD alternator from RHDJapan a few weeks ago.
https://www.rhdjapan.com/ard-low-res...-red-fd3s.html
Was about $480 shipped to California.
https://www.rhdjapan.com/ard-low-res...-red-fd3s.html
Was about $480 shipped to California.
I also went with the Advance 150a after my IRP one started to give me some inconsistent readings. From my research, I also believe the Advance and ARD may essentially be the same (I think ARD may be a subsidiary of Advance). It appeared both used the same internal windings with a slightly different casing (ARD looking slightly more OEM and Advance looking a bit more custom). If I remember correctly, the windings are manufactured by Mitsubishi Electric.
I went with the Advance for a couple of reasons (mostly aesthetic). I could order the Advance 150a with a black casing, black band, and black pulley. The ARD only came with a blue or red band (and I don't have blue or red in my engine bay). Also, the Advance ended up a bit cheaper from their eBay store. It also came in less than a week, where as the ARD through RHDJapan or Nengun was going to be several weeks.
I heavily considered the DC Power, based on their reputation and the fact that it was made in the US (which would make potential warranty issues much easier). However, I just didn't like the 'look' of the casing. Was a bit too blingy for my tastes. But, if we are looking at this from a money no object (it's quite a bit more expensive than the other options) and aesthetics be dammed perspective...then I think the DC is the best choice.
I also looked into the Power Bastard 200a. Sounded good on paper: very reasonable price and, again, produced in the USA. But looking into some reviews of the company, I quickly ruled them out. I think there was one other company I looked into, but I can't seem to find my spreadsheet with all the information on it at the moment.
I went with the Advance for a couple of reasons (mostly aesthetic). I could order the Advance 150a with a black casing, black band, and black pulley. The ARD only came with a blue or red band (and I don't have blue or red in my engine bay). Also, the Advance ended up a bit cheaper from their eBay store. It also came in less than a week, where as the ARD through RHDJapan or Nengun was going to be several weeks.
I heavily considered the DC Power, based on their reputation and the fact that it was made in the US (which would make potential warranty issues much easier). However, I just didn't like the 'look' of the casing. Was a bit too blingy for my tastes. But, if we are looking at this from a money no object (it's quite a bit more expensive than the other options) and aesthetics be dammed perspective...then I think the DC is the best choice.
I also looked into the Power Bastard 200a. Sounded good on paper: very reasonable price and, again, produced in the USA. But looking into some reviews of the company, I quickly ruled them out. I think there was one other company I looked into, but I can't seem to find my spreadsheet with all the information on it at the moment.
The majority of power issues stem from poor grounding, and improper understandings of current flow alongside tapping into/scabbing onto Mazda's undersized wiring for the entirety of the car (for both power and ground). When I see people outrunning 140amp alternators with just a couple of fans and large fuel pumps and then adding even LARGER alternators on the suggestion of experts I really start to wonder.
Sizing proper power reserve is why teeny-tiny Lithium batteries are a bad idea, current is circular (if you're upgrading something on the hot side and you're just assuming you can ground to chassis with stock wiring you're going to have a bad time), and inrush is not what anyone should be looking at with regards to their alternator choices.
Sizing proper power reserve is why teeny-tiny Lithium batteries are a bad idea, current is circular (if you're upgrading something on the hot side and you're just assuming you can ground to chassis with stock wiring you're going to have a bad time), and inrush is not what anyone should be looking at with regards to their alternator choices.
Last edited by dguy; Mar 19, 2026 at 09:06 AM.
Thread Starter
It leaks oil, it has oil.
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 91
Likes: 33
From: Corydon, Indiana
The majority of power issues stem from poor grounding, and improper understandings of current flow alongside tapping into/scabbing onto Mazda's undersized wiring for the entirety of the car (for both power and ground). When I see people outrunning 140amp alternators with just a couple of fans and large fuel pumps and then adding even LARGER alternators on the suggestion of experts I really start to wonder.
Sizing proper power reserve is why teeny-tiny Lithium batteries is a bad idea, current is circular - don't if you're upgrading something on the hot side and you're just assuming you can ground to chassis with stock wiring you're going to have a bad time, and inrush is not what anyone should be looking at with regards to their alternator choices.
Sizing proper power reserve is why teeny-tiny Lithium batteries is a bad idea, current is circular - don't if you're upgrading something on the hot side and you're just assuming you can ground to chassis with stock wiring you're going to have a bad time, and inrush is not what anyone should be looking at with regards to their alternator choices.
I have the ARD but it’s not installed yet, along with a few other parts that I really need to work on the car again with nice spring weather we have in Georgia now.
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 841
Likes: 115
From: South Orange County, CA
IIRC, the pulley on my ARD was slightly larger than the original. I did have to get a slightly longer belt because of that.
At what point is an upgraded alternator necessary? The regulator died on my stock unit and while I ordered parts to try fixing it, I'm now wondering if it'll be sufficient should I manage to fix it.
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