I'll find a dyno, I think there is one in el paso which is about an hour away.
And for the sake of the whole where was it tuned..

I know for a fact the car was physically touched by re amemiya, they did the tune clutch and exhaust and intakes that are on it, and the suspension and tuned the suspension for dorifto :P

So yeah it was probably tuned for a much higher octane than what we have here in the states...I have tried the NOS octane boost because I heard it actually works..

When I get it back on the road I'll try and get to a dyno and see what she pulls.

 

If you have an ECU with accurate and dependable knock control (like a factory computer) then that's true. A Power FC is a very primitive computer, I hate to break it to you. So are most other aftermarket standalones. They don't respond very well to changes in environments and fuel quality. If you look at how a modern factory computer is set up you'll see that on top of 50 gazillion correction tables there are fuel, timing, and boost self-learning systems.

The Power FC has none of the above. It has no fuel trims (fuel learning). It has no short term/immediate knock control nor does it have any way to learn what kind of fuel you are running and make appropriate adjustments over the long term. On a modern factory computer there are two (sometimes more) timing maps that the ECU can interpolate between based on knock sensor reading. You need to fiddle with these things a lot, and even then there are still limitations. Take it from someone who has tuned more than just Rx-7's.

The car should be retuned. There isn't necessarily anything wrong with adding some kind of AI on top of it but it should still be retuned. Octane booster isn't a dependable solution either. At the very least, pull a few degrees of timing like I suggested.

 

I agree with most of what you are saying but disagree with other "standalones" not responding well to enviromental changes , Most of the ecus that ive tuned- link/vipec , motec m### , haltech platnium series all respond well to environmental changes both in speed density and maf based systems the problem is you need to know what you are doing when tuning and spend the time with correction factors and setting up closed loop systems which a lot of self taught tuners out there dont know, Ive tuned both piston and rotary cars and are EFI university certified tuner so i hope i know something on the subject.

 

Dont get me wrong guys adding WI is a good option and running higher octane for a saftey margin especially on these engines but it just annoys me a little when people say you need to retune a car when i drive to a warmer climate and have driven down/up a big hill when properly setup and TUNED PROPERLY 99.99% you wont have problems unless your vehicle is tuned to the limits.

 

So in your profesional opinion, Is it safe to say you beleive the OP doesn't NEED anything changed with his setup?

 

Not with the tune unless the car is showing signs of detonation, but some Water injection would be good investment especially if planing further mods futher down the track. BUT hey this is only my opinion.

 

there's your problem right there, who's to say it is? he claims amemiya-san tuned it, but what are the chances that it hasn't been optimized

 

Yeah ok get a good known tuner to have a look over the map and run it up if required, probably a good idea if the owner is unsure of when danger signs show.

 

I've never used an aftermarket computer that has short and long term fuel trims, or high and low octane timing maps, or boost PID coefficientl vs. boost error tables. Maybe some super high end Motec does or something. Yeah they all have IAT and water temp tables for a lot of things, but so does the PFC. It takes forever to get those set up just right, on a PFC or anything else. The PFC is especially bad because its closed loop fuel control is pretty much useless. I'd rather tune a factory or chipped Evo, STi, or Honda ECU any day. They are much more consistent due to the learning capabilities.

The "leave it alone unless you hear it detonate" strategy doesn't work too well on FD's, partly because of the knock control issue I've touched on before. Maybe on a 4G63 you can get away with that (those things are tanks), but not on a rotary.