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All 4 brake calipers seized up?

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Old May 25, 2013 | 06:55 PM
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scotty R's Avatar
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From: niagara , ON
ON All 4 brake calipers seized up?

hi all
ill start with everything i have done so far leading up to this .car is a 93 rx7 FD (RHD)
the last 7 months i have been doing a 5 spd swap and a FMIC setup , finally finishing all of this 2 days ago, bled my slave out didnt take to long , filled with coolant and bled out all the air and it was good to go.

i go down the street and all is good car is pulling strong clutch feels a million times better than before (ie it was auto previous) and brake pedal is nice and stiff at the top , after doing a couple laps of my street my car started to feel lagging a bit almost like a loss of power but then as soon as i let off the gas it came to an almost urgent stop like my foot was on the brake pedal the entire time , i could barely get the car back to my drive way from this point.

jacked the one side up and couldnt even budge the front wheel.
the only thing that would even effect the brakes was i took the rear callipers off to replace the bearings , had the master cylinder cap off and slowly pushed the piston in. i did not touch the fronts what so ever. I also replaced the brake pedal but it connected fine to the booster and felt as good as ever.

do you guys think the sliders need to be re greased or the hole system needs to be bled out again?

any help would be great
thanks
-scott
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Old May 25, 2013 | 09:53 PM
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Scotty, the problem is that there is no clearance between the brake pedal pushrod and the brake mster cylinder so the port is not being uncovered inside the master cylinder and essentially it is equivalent to you pushing your brakes on. When the temps buiild up the brakes come on harder and harder. Once you put some clearance into the rod, your brakes will work fine.
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Old May 26, 2013 | 12:47 AM
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scotty R's Avatar
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ah ok so i would just make an adjustment to the push rod then? so the brake pedal goes down further and there is clearance , so i would be loosening the nut on the push rod then to pull it further out of the master cylinder?



Originally Posted by ncaudio
Scotty, the problem is that there is no clearance between the brake pedal pushrod and the brake mster cylinder so the port is not being uncovered inside the master cylinder and essentially it is equivalent to you pushing your brakes on. When the temps buiild up the brakes come on harder and harder. Once you put some clearance into the rod, your brakes will work fine.

Last edited by scotty R; May 26, 2013 at 12:52 AM.
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Old May 27, 2013 | 02:18 PM
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so i adjusted both my brake pedal push rod as well as my clutch push rod , it worked with my clutch as now the friction point is now not from the floor up. i adjusted the rod and the sensor as well to the max for the pedal to be out and still all my brakes seize up .

any other ideas, should i re-bleed the system , grease the sliders again or just go and buy new callipers?
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Old May 27, 2013 | 10:34 PM
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This happened to a friend of mine after petroleum oil was added instead of brake fluid. Hydrolic fluid will cause the seals to swell and lock up the brakes. Longshot but easy to check.
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Old May 28, 2013 | 01:28 AM
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so after long thought i tried the other way by adjusting the pedal so it goes down and the rod comes towards the driver and bingo !! brakes work fine now , i was under the impression that the pedal would have to come towards the driver but didnt think of the push rod would go into the master.

car feels brakes and drives great, thanks for all your input everyone
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Old May 28, 2013 | 10:10 AM
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You're welcome , it's not the first time that has happened on a auto to manual swap, a friend did one and had the same problem.
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Old May 28, 2013 | 12:23 PM
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From: Hamilton On
Glad to hear you got that sorted out Scotty
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