JUSt WANT TO KNOW HOW HARD IS IS TO REPLACE OEM AIT TO AN AFTERMAKET AIT.


think oem ait is under uim , so should I replace uim gasket too?



Thanks for advice

 

Yes, the IAT is under the UIM, and IMO if you remove the UIM replace the gasket. I don't think they cost all that much.

An alternative is to relocate the IAT to a location that it doesn't heat-soak as badly. With some effort, you can reach under the UIM with your fingers and unplug the IAT without removing it. Then just extend the wires as necessary to where you relocate the IAT....leaving the old sensor in place. I would stay with the stock IAT, NOT "aftermarket".

You won't have to go to the trouble and some expense to remove the UIM. And you've removed the IAT to a location where it won't heat-soak as much...which should make it a little safer. Especially if your running more than stock boost.

On a nearly stock car, this will cause it to run a little rich longer on start-up, especially in cold/cool weather. Running rich longer can contribute to carbon buildup in the combustion chamber. It can also be a little harder on the cat and a little harder on spark plugs.

FWIW, this is where I placed mine when I still had the stock intake elbow..........

It's current location is essentially unchanged......

 

I've heard of some people using a gm sensor thats supposed to react faster and have the same curve as the stock sensor. Also heard of one for a triumph being used. I don't know the part numbers but would like to know for myself

 

Thanks for advice, I've just bought this new iat :

http://cgi.ebay.fr/Mazda-RX7-Racing-...3286.m63.l1177

 

Sounds really good. But playing devils advocate, it never mentions who actually manufacturers it. And does "automotive grade" mean something specific in Europe? The quicker response is definitely good. Not an electrical engineer by a long-shot, but at least some of that sensor appears to be unshielded. I wonder if that is likely to affect it's long term accuracy.

 

You can also remove the shielding from the stock AIT to get a quicker response (presumably with a shorter lifespan).

The stock AIT is fine (though it often lasts only ~50k miles) - the heat soak prone location is the problem.

Fortunately, the failure mode of the stock AIT is good (it gives a large negative temperature causing the ECU to dump fuel, which is better than going lean). I wonder what the failure mode of this AIT is?

 

does anyone know the part number for the GM unit that matches the stock sensors range?

 

http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/o...tail-p-62.html

Anyone think this one will work with the the PFC or stock ecu?

When changing IAT sensors on other ECU's (haltech, megasquirt ect) does anything have to be changed to the ECU settings for it to work right?

 

I wouldn't worry about it, my OEM AIT failed and it read negative numbers as well as 100C+ which unfortunately I didn't figure out until it was too late... I'm quite interested in that weird French IAT though.

 

it appears to be a triumph sensor, ( link to mazdarotary club uk)

http://www.mazdarotaryclub.com/forum...highlight=riat

 

Yeah, you have to replace it too...

 

yeah someone mentioned in one of the yahoo groups for the PFC using a triumph sensor, but there was no info on a part number.

Also I wanted to mention that I've had my UIM off over 50 times and the stock gasket only leaked once when a wire accidentally got trapped under it. After moving the wire from under it, it sealed just fine. I don't think replacing the gasket is necessary. It's quite fortunate too cause I would have to keep a stock pile of them as often as I pull mine off.

 

I still see no part number for this anywhere... I actually have a triumph 955I.. I wonder if it has the same sensor. I might have to try an experiment with my triumph sensor.

 

I just ordered a used sensor for a 955i from eBay for $20. I couldn't justify 70 pounds but $20 is easy. It looked the same visually except it had a green case. We'll see. I'm about to start digging in there to replace my LIM gasket so I should have all of that crap apart within the next week or so. I'll take measurements.

 

Yeah i saw a few used for around 20 shipped, and i think new they are like 35 + shipping. I would think triumph would use the same sensor for most the models with the same resistance curve. Let us know if it works. Was it the one for a 99 955i that you purchased?

And yeah 70 pounds is over $100 US that's way too much of a markup.

 

That is what I am figuring as well. It was off of a 2002 Daytona 955i.


This is a fact.

 

Allright despite nobody reporting back yet I ordered a 955i ait sensor also we'll see how it goes. Has anyone gotten their oem ait out without removing their UIM? I don't really want to do all that...

 

Mine came in the mail yesterday. I have the UIM off and can compare this evening.

I doubt you'll find hands/wrenches that can get down in there without at least pulling the uim up a little bit. You may not need to completely remove it from the car though.

 

Awesome i'm looking forward to seeing if it works out. The uim is not hard to remove. I find it easier to leave the plastic elbow on and just disconnect the intercooler coupler. I think getting to the sensor with it still on the car would take a miracle.

 

All right. Here are my observations.

Physically:
Thread pitch and overall size is the same. It will thread right in and be just fine.
The connector is different, but is the same as a standard American style fuel injector connector.

Electrically:
I used some leads to connect both the Mazda and Triumph sensor to a pair of DVMs. I put them in a box, along with a cooking digital probe thermometer. I then heated the box with a heat gun. As the temps rose I could watch them at the same time.

On the whole, the sensors were very close to each other. The triumph sensor was definitely quicker to respond. If you blew on it it would react quickly. I had one problem though. The Triumph sensor would spaz out. If the Mazda sensor was reading 1.62k the Triumph sensor would hover between 1.60-1.63 and then jump to 4, then to 11, then to 3, linger at 3.xx and before settling back down again. This diversion could last 10-20 seconds. Disturbing.


The DVMs that I am using are fairly cheap. Is it possible that by they are inducing some sort of effect on them? They are just thermistors and should just change resistance values but I'm not electronics smart enough to know if I can take that for granted.

Maybe I got a bum sensor.

Maybe tomorrow I'll plug them in to the car and watch the PFC temp..

 

Well it sounds like that sensor will work. Maybe a brand new one would be best. Do you happen to know what part number it is? Thanks for the feedback. Maybe trying it on the car it won't spazz out.

 

what wrench size should i use to unbolt the iat sensor?

 

Sorry.. don't have a part number for you. I don't think I'll be able to get to try this on the car any time soon..

Pulling the motor due to this.. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C0Bz3yxgoY0