Originally Posted by monkman33
(Post 11399091)
and for a quality product, made in the us, there has to be reasonable compensation for the person's time and knowledge.
Keep making high quality products! :-) |
Originally Posted by Banzai-Racing
(Post 11399708)
You can "argue" for these coils all you want. Everyone knows you have these coils, what most don't know is that you have a Haltech which is a completely different installation to a Power FC. What I do not understand is why you push them on people that have a different EMS than you.
Originally Posted by Banzai-Racing
(Post 11399708)
I have yet to see any real data that says these coils perform better than a prooven HKS/OEM setup. No waveforms of any kind, just a few guys saying these are "stronger". Not even a before and after dyno sheet, which would not mean much anyway.
Originally Posted by Banzai-Racing
(Post 11399708)
99% of people out there should NEVER touch their car's wiring, not even to install a stereo, never mind ignition coils. I have seen more speaker wire and duct tape on Haltech and Microtech installations then I care to talk about.
Originally Posted by Banzai-Racing
(Post 11399708)
Anyone can install an HKS Twin Power in 20 min or less, NO custom bracket required, NO relocation of the coils, NO removing the upper intake, NO custom plug wires, No opportunity for ignition failure due to installer error. The Twin Power is far CHEAPER in the long run.
Originally Posted by Banzai-Racing
(Post 11399708)
As someone else already posted, we do use the AEM "dumb" coils to replace the Bosch units that some people have purchased with their Microtechs, even with these we have wired in a HKS Twin Power. We have had seen good results with cars over 400whp.
Originally Posted by Banzai-Racing
(Post 11399708)
For the PFC just stick with the Twin Power, no reason to complicate things when there is no benefit. Anyone that wants to install these coils go right ahead, as I already said, this is my OPINION. If you want to drink the Kool-aid there are people willing to sell it to you for a profit.
|
Originally Posted by C. Ludwig
(Post 11403585)
Why does the ECU matter? Simply because the PFC only has three ignition channels? If you knew the IGN-1A coil, and how it's been used with the PFC for several years now, you would know ECU make and configuration is a moot point.
Originally Posted by C. Ludwig
(Post 11403585)
Just like the HKS Twin Power, when purchased with a harness, the IGN-1A coils can be installed in a matter of minutes.
Originally Posted by C. Ludwig
(Post 11403585)
I'd guess that cheaper estimation doesn't include the cost of new OE coils? Also, you're far more dexterous than I if you're swapping those OE coils without removing the upper.
You might want to consider becoming a forum vendor if you are going to continue to try to push your products and services on forum members. Would not want you to find yourself in hot water for violation of forum rules. Good luck with your product. |
Originally Posted by RENESISFD
(Post 11382093)
^ PM, C.Ludwig he can hook you up with everything you need.
Anywhere else i can buy those coils? Thanks |
Have you tried PM'ing C. Ludwig?
|
3 Attachment(s)
^I would try to PM Chris...maybe your emails are going to "spam" folders since your out of the country?
Just posted the following in my build thread... for the record I'm running Haltech PS2000. Got around to mounting the AEM coils on the PS/AC bracket to be nice and close to the plugs. Decided to use metric M6 bolts and drill & tap the bracket to mount in 3 locations. The center bolt came short so I took some aluminum rod, drilled and tapped it all the way through to make a nice fixed spacer in the center for the coil to mount to. A lot of grinding, cutting and sanding to make sure the coils don't touch the bracket... now it's ready for fresh powdercoat. Attachment 679050 Attachment 679051 Attachment 679052 |
Originally Posted by Banzai-Racing
(Post 11403597)
Read bumbpstarts post.
Now on a 3-channel system, we obviously double the duty cycle on the leading coils, as Bumpstart is saying, since we're firing those coils twice as often. We recommend settings for the PFC/Datalogit that produce the charge time v. RPM curve shown below. Duty cycle for leading and trailing are also shown. https://img842.imageshack.us/img842/8492/chargetime.jpg As shown, at 8000 RPM, leading charge time does need to drop to 3.5 ms. At this charge time, the coil is still producing around 100mJ of energy. Since most street-use combinations have a power curve that falls off precipitously above this rev range, there's not much use worrying about what is happening at 10k. If you're making power at 10k, you're most likely not using a PFC. If you are, then you may indeed need to look at an alternate ignition system. At any rate, the math is simple and shows that this coil will work quite well in a wastespark application. One of the unique qualities of the coil is that it was originally designed for use in a 2-stroke application where duty cycle requirements demand a coil that can build a strong charge quickly. That's what this coil does. Bumpstart said, "the mercury coil will just have to be happy with 3.5 ms or less that can be fed at high rpms". I submit that it is quite happy at 3.5ms at high revs and the guys that are running them with the PFC seem to agree. I'm still waiting on documentation on the output potential of the Twin Power. Anything? |
Originally Posted by vrx8
(Post 11405522)
Have you tried PM'ing C. Ludwig?
|
Originally Posted by PandazRx-7
(Post 11406261)
I will post pictures upon completion. |
For those looking to do a mount similar to what is pictured above, I would encourage you to talk to Brandon at CJ Motorsports (username oorx7). I sent him some coils last week. He's working on a billet bracket to do a similar mounting scheme for his own car with intent to produce them. The idea is to keep the coils as close to the plugs as possible to eliminate the long wires associated with mounting them in lieu of the cruise module. Like anything CJ does, it will be top notch quality, I'm sure.
|
Originally Posted by C. Ludwig
(Post 11422072)
For those looking to do a mount similar to what is pictured above, I would encourage you to talk to Brandon at CJ Motorsports (username oorx7). I sent him some coils last week. He's working on a billet bracket to do a similar mounting scheme for his own car with intent to produce them. The idea is to keep the coils as close to the plugs as possible to eliminate the long wires associated with mounting them in lieu of the cruise module. Like anything CJ does, it will be top notch quality, I'm sure.
I guess location matters if you're not using quality plug wires... but who would go through all this effort and use cheap wire :scratch: :lol: |
2 Attachment(s)
Hope I don't get in trouble for posting these...prototype from a mystery vendor...=D
https://www.rx7club.com/attachment.p...1&d=1364873811 https://www.rx7club.com/attachment.p...1&d=1364873811 Last I heard they're already ready to ship them like...tomorrow... |
Ludwig, you da man.
|
Originally Posted by RotorMotor
(Post 11425805)
If you use the right wire the difference in length is absolutely a moot point unless you're mounting them in the passenger seat. For the wires I do I'm getting 40-50Ω for stock length wires and 90-100Ω for the cruise location. Considering most generic "performance wires" are in the Thousands (let alone OEM wire) it's really splitting hairs.
I guess location matters if you're not using quality plug wires... but who would go through all this effort and use cheap wire :scratch: :lol: Plug wire performance is about more than resistance. If you were only concerned with resistance, you'd crimp a length of 0g silver wire to each end and be done with it. My main concern with long plug wires is EMI/RFI. Having 30" wires laying parallel on top of each other is just not good practice. Sometimes there is simply no way around a situation like this and compromises are made. Personal preference is a shorter wire for a cleaner look. But that preference is entirely subjective. |
Originally Posted by C. Ludwig
(Post 11429622)
Plug wire performance is about more than resistance. If you were only concerned with resistance, you'd crimp a length of 0g silver wire to each end and be done with it. My main concern with long plug wires is EMI/RFI. Having 30" wires laying parallel on top of each other is just not good practice. Sometimes there is simply no way around a situation like this and compromises are made. Personal preference is a shorter wire for a cleaner look. But that preference is entirely subjective.
http://i.ebayimg.com/t/Wire-Separato...M8Q~~60_35.JPG |
Hi guys,
I've installed these coils on my FD, but I don't feel I'm getting the best out of them. I run a power FC and have datalogit. Could anyone advise/help me so I can changethe settings on the datalogit toget the best out of these coils, as I haven't been able to work out the settings on the Apexi for them yet. |
Parts:
(2) 1/4" threaded rod cut to length. (4) 1/4" bolts, washers, and cap bolts (8) 1.5" aluminum spacers from www.mcmaster.com The holes from the Power Steering pump mount line up perfectly. Too easy. The OEM filler neck will not fit with this solution. I am making a custom one anyway. http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w...ps0bea0ec1.jpg |
2 Attachment(s)
Finally had Chris Ludwig make the custom length & boot spark plug wires for the AEM coils...
Attachment 673342 Attachment 673343 |
Originally Posted by XLR8
(Post 11439286)
Parts:
(2) 1/4" threaded rod cut to length. (4) 1/4" bolts, washers, and cap bolts (8) 1.5" aluminum spacers from McMaster-Carr The holes from the Power Steering pump mount line up perfectly. Too easy. The OEM filler neck will not fit with this solution. I am making a custom one anyway. http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w...ps0bea0ec1.jpg |
Originally Posted by 0110-M-P
(Post 11457862)
So you have all 4 coils just cantilevered off two M6 threaded rods bolted to the PS pump mounting plate? Doesn't seem all that robust of a mounting solution without the back end supported in some way.
|
For those wanting to put the coils in a similar spot, where the AC and/or PS would be, contact Brandon (user name oorx7) at CJ Motorsports. He's been working on a billet bracket.
Also, the Magnecores, built to order by Magnecore, in Panda's post are built for less than others are selling the MSD wires. |
Wouldn't the differences in wire length create some kind of un-even spark performance between the front and rear rotors ? Maybe if both leading wires we're the same length and both trailing the same, not both L & T to rotor number 1 being short and both wires to rotors number 2 being longer.. Is it irrelevant or would same length wires be ultimately better..
|
It's pretty much irrelevant for wires of this type, length and service (finite rise time pulse). The 'juice' travels at a minimum of 60% to 70% of the speed of light and the difference in loss isn't significant on wires this short. Hope this helps.
|
"The 'juice' travels at a minimum of 60% to 70% of the speed of light and the difference in loss isn't significant on wires this short."
it isn't often that you get great laughs out of an ignition thread... thanks for that, SOL. i would like to add one consideration w re to the IGN-1A coils... boot quality, fit and size are very important given the output. short sloppy fit boots provide an easier avenue for the elec power. it is easy to go overboard also. the primary plug wire kit i bought from Lance had plug boots that covered all the porcelain. i am not running them as i knew i would never be able to get them off the plugs. there is probably a happy medium. currently i am running some MSD boots w Lance's primary wire and coil boots. Magnecor is also an excellent option and a good value given they are custom made for your specific app. howard |
1 Attachment(s)
Made my little mounting bracket.
Attachment 673134 |
All times are GMT -5. The time now is 10:11 AM. |
© 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands