SpAm@FC:

No problem, but I can't take credit for the design. I got the idea from a blog post I linked to in my initial post.

that's the way i install them on my car. my setup is a Blitz SMIC with battery relocation, no AC, no PS.
i hope when i eventully gonna go Single V-mount, i won't have to relocate them

bottom right corner on the 1st pic

i put an aluminum plate to protect from the splash and somehow gonna protect from the fan blasting hot air on it, when stuck in traffic.

Does anyone know how these coils would perform when installed on a stock car? ie standard ECU etc.

i would say you cant use a standard ecu at all, the least you would need would be an apexi + dataloggit, or a better ecu such as a haltech, motec etc. as you need to change the ignition dwell settings. i have just sold my twinpower, ordering up the coils soon:nod::nod::egrin:

Can the smart coils be used with the apexi so long as you have the dataloggit?

Technically you don't have to change the dwell settings... however they would not be working to their full potential. I would think that they would work fine with the stock ECU, but I cant say if there would be any benefit. Maybe C. Ludwig can chime in on this one?

Yea I'd like to know the recommended dwell settings when using a PFC.

These would probably do well in a turbo Rx-8( well an N/a as well), last i heard the yukon coil was hot shit for those guys.

Well....I've bought them anyway. So I'll test them with the stock ECU. Worst case, I'll have to buy my powerfc a little earlier than I planned to :icon_tup:.

Cheers.

The stock ECU will work with the Mercury coils, however, as I told Ceylon, we're not sure what the dwell characteristics of the stock ECU are and wht the exact results will be.

The LS truck coil is capable of impressive output, but it requires a high dwell to achieve that output. You run into duty issuses with this coil on a high rpm rotary. Further, several respected tuners have noted an auto-discharge, current-limiting "feature" with these coils. What that means is that at high dwell and/or high duty cycles the coil can discharge before the ECU tells it to. That translates into uncontrolled ignition advance. Not good. I won't use these coils anymore.

Just to clarify, this issue occurs with the LS coil of the AEM IGN-1A?

^The LS coil.

Here is some data gathered by measuring the stock ECU's leading coil signal:
RPM -- Dwell (ms) -- Duty Cycle (%):
2000 -- 3.0 ms -- 20 %
3500 -- 2.9 ms -- 33 %
5500 -- 2.7 ms -- 50 %
7000 -- 2.6 ms -- 60 %
7500 -- 2.4 ms -- 62 %

C Ludwig, 'lil help. :)

Earlier in the thread he says that 4.5ms dwell is best. Or leave it at 3.0ms as the coils produces 108mJ at 3.0 ms. Any higher dwell will risk the life of the coil, however if you have an ecu capable of mappable dwell then higher dwell can be used for
Short
Periods of time at higher load points but not constantly.

I am in contact with a supplier in the uk of these coils and he was involved with a Renault 5 turbo drag car running 3bar of boost and 125hp shot of nitrous and they still couldn't blow the spark out. So they are definately good strong units.

^ That is all well and good but the PFC does not use dwell in ms time. You simply do not input 4.5ms and then it is set.


See this thread

https://www.rx7club.com/power-fc-for...-dwell-752360/

C. Ludwig has created an excel spreadsheet that allows you to input your desired dwell ms and it will give you the appropriate value to enter into the PFC. He sent this over to me after I purchased my coils.

Can you email it to mefarri@gmail.com? Thanks.

You should contact C. Ludwig directly. I don't want to give out his work without his consent.

My apologies, I didn't know that.

Email me and I'll send you the spreadsheet.

ludwigmotorsports@insightbb.com

option to keep the stock ignitor connector
 

Hi All,

I ordered a set of coils from C. Ludwig (Chris). While waiting I've been checking into options related to the not having to chop off the stock ignitor connection. Here's what I done:

1) It appears to be an Amp / Tyco connector.
2) I can't find a mate for it after searching the internet on and off for a couple of days.
3) Ignitors for the FD go for about $150. Hacking one of these up in order to create a matching connector is too expensive.
4) Miatas appear to use the same connector for their ignitor. These can be had for about $25 on ebay.

After thinking about it, I decided to pick up a delphi weatherpack connector. He're a good ebay search to start anyone off who doesn't know what these are. I'm guessing that the mercury coils are using these but I don't have mine yet to compare.

I piggybacked the connector on to the stock wiring harness. It's a piece of cake now to go back to stock. In fact, I'm running stock now while waiting for the coils.

Take a look at the attached pictures. It's about a three hour project if you have everything ready. Use a new razor blade, extra soldering flux for the oxidized wires in our 20 year old harness and a sharp pick to free the pins from the stock connector.

Here's a repeat of what wires to tap along with what they are for:

stock color - function - color used on my weatherpack connectors
light green - leading coils - yellow
brown - trailing front (T1) - brown
brown / black - trailing rear (T2) - blue
black / white - switched power - red

more pics
 

*

I have a couple HKS Twin Power harnesses, can it be used for these coils?

I wonder if knowing that it is a tyco connector you can just remove the pins and slide them into a different tyco connector that you can find both male and female ends for.