added OEM dual oil coolers to touring FD
#26
rotorhead
iTrader: (3)
Add'l observations:
-generally, oil was always hotter than water (EXCEPT steady state freeway cruise)
-oil temp very sensitive to ambient temp (ESP. on freeway cruise conditions)
-water not as much
-water temp changes lag oil temp with both single & duals
-oil cools much quicker with duals
-increase in oil temp always resulted in increase in water temp
-single cooler: oil-water delta was something like 40-60*F
-dual cooler: oil-water delta was something like 20-40*F
-with both setups: during warmer weather (say, ambient > 80*F), oil is always hotter than water (except freeway cruise); opposite is true when colder (say, ambient < 70*) (except freeway cruise)
-my water temps are now 10+*F lower in most conditions after dual install
-generally, oil was always hotter than water (EXCEPT steady state freeway cruise)
-oil temp very sensitive to ambient temp (ESP. on freeway cruise conditions)
-water not as much
-water temp changes lag oil temp with both single & duals
-oil cools much quicker with duals
-increase in oil temp always resulted in increase in water temp
-single cooler: oil-water delta was something like 40-60*F
-dual cooler: oil-water delta was something like 20-40*F
-with both setups: during warmer weather (say, ambient > 80*F), oil is always hotter than water (except freeway cruise); opposite is true when colder (say, ambient < 70*) (except freeway cruise)
-my water temps are now 10+*F lower in most conditions after dual install
I've seen pics of that cooler before. Maybe you could fit it in front of the radiator, I have no idea what the dimensions are on that piece but it sure looks huge! Probably wouldn't work on an OEM front bumper I'd reckon.
Length (including endtanks) 22.5"
Length (core only) 19.75"
Height 4.5"
Width 2"
multiplying the bottom 3 dimensions gives a volume of 177.75 cubic inches excluding the endtanks. That's about the size of many FMIC's for turbo Hondas I wonder what the combined volume of the OEM FD dual oil coolers works out to be? Of course, there's more to a heat exchanger than its total volume.
FYI, the factory 2nd gen oil cooler has a dual-pass design with a 150F thermostat. They have rubber mounts and a bracket on the car. It's held on by four studs.
#28
Oil coolers
When building my new motor I also went with dual oil coolers. However I bought brand new from Mazda. Fortunately I get a significant discount. The money was well spent. I too agree don't know why Mazda did not do this on all FD's.
#29
All Life
iTrader: (21)
I have an fd touring with a single oil cooler and have been planning to upgrade the oil cooling. I am aware of the size and availability of the FC oil cooler and was thinking about maybe using one rather then blowing money on dual oil coolers. I was wondering if anybody has done this and knows of the benefits?
#30
rotorhead
iTrader: (3)
I have an fd touring with a single oil cooler and have been planning to upgrade the oil cooling. I am aware of the size and availability of the FC oil cooler and was thinking about maybe using one rather then blowing money on dual oil coolers. I was wondering if anybody has done this and knows of the benefits?
The fittings on the cooler itself are M16 (M16x1.50 ?), so you will need metric to AN adapters. You will want 10AN hose and probably some 90 degree fittings. Here is a writeup from somebody who did custom oil lines on an FC block (factory FC hoses eventually fail): https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-gen-archive-72/custom-oil-cooler-line-partlist-270545/
I believe the FC block has M16 on the front cover and M18 on the rear iron. I'm not sure what the sizes are on the REW block. They might all be M18. Here are pics (credit to Corksport) of the factory mounting points (10mm nuts) on the FC cooler:
I'd budget at least $150 for the oil lines. All the hose and fittings won't be cheap. If you could fab some brackets yourself you could probably do the whole project for under $250. I think the oil coolers (turbo and non turbo are the same) go for about $50 used on this forum, so you wouldn't be out a whole lot of money if you bought one and at least tried to mock it up see whether it would be feasible or not.
#32
Rotary Freak
iTrader: (1)
Also, unless you are experienced at making your own braided fittings, best to try the local hydraulic shops. I blew out the Aeroquip oil lines (the push on type) TWICE! I think it had to do with the 90psi oil pressure. The cost of these Aeroquip lines was around $130.00 that ended up in the trash can. I kept the fittings but I don't trust them.
In San Jose, I went to one that makes fittings for the small engine airplane crowd and for the construction industry. Two lines for $150 as long as you give them exact dimensions and size of the fittings. They will crimp that sucker down so that it would take 1500 psi of oil pressure.
In San Jose, I went to one that makes fittings for the small engine airplane crowd and for the construction industry. Two lines for $150 as long as you give them exact dimensions and size of the fittings. They will crimp that sucker down so that it would take 1500 psi of oil pressure.
#34
Rotary Freak
iTrader: (21)
Question mike,
Have you tracked your FD in hotter (90degree +) weather with the duals? If so how were the temps?
I ask because Ive been to the track many times when weather even passed 100 and without monitoring my oil temps I have no idea what temps I was hitting. Coolant was in check tho. I hope the stock duals can hold up Cali heat.
Have you tracked your FD in hotter (90degree +) weather with the duals? If so how were the temps?
I ask because Ive been to the track many times when weather even passed 100 and without monitoring my oil temps I have no idea what temps I was hitting. Coolant was in check tho. I hope the stock duals can hold up Cali heat.
#35
Question mike,
Have you tracked your FD in hotter (90degree +) weather with the duals? If so how were the temps?
I ask because Ive been to the track many times when weather even passed 100 and without monitoring my oil temps I have no idea what temps I was hitting. Coolant was in check tho. I hope the stock duals can hold up Cali heat.
Have you tracked your FD in hotter (90degree +) weather with the duals? If so how were the temps?
I ask because Ive been to the track many times when weather even passed 100 and without monitoring my oil temps I have no idea what temps I was hitting. Coolant was in check tho. I hope the stock duals can hold up Cali heat.
However I think in 100+* heat you would need more cooling, depending on how hard you drive and the track itself. A track like CA Speedway is very hard on your motor because of the high speeds, a good chunk of that track is pure straightaway.
Towards the end of the day my water temps were more of a problem. Hit about 230*F @ the thermostat housing and decided to back off for the last 5 minutes or so. Oil never went past 240*F measured at the pan, so the oil going into the motor would be cooler than that, not sure by how much. My guess is that the cooled oil was around 200*F. I'll talk to a heat transfer person/engineer and it shouldn't be hard to calculate a ballpark figure for the cooled oil. On my next setup I'm thinking of installing an additional oil temp gauge after the coolers to measure the effectiveness of the coolers. How about that, dual oil coolers and dual oil temp gauges
I think it's a really good idea for a tracked car to get a oil temp gauge. My oil temps would change a lot faster than water, I could tell when my water would heat up because the oil would go up first, and conversely for cooling too.
Here's a couple of notes on engine oil and temperatures:
Here's a good read from a Porsche vendor/racer on oil temp vs. engine life, etc.
Racing Beat says oil temperature in rotary shouldn't go above 250*F w/o severe engine damage & synthetic oil drops oil temps 5-10*F
Racing Beat says oil going into motor should be < 205*F
I can't seem to find it anywhere, but on the old Mazdaspeed site, they recommended that oil for an N/A rotary on the track should never exceed 260*F (it may have been 265, don't rememeber exactly) @ the pan...
#37
Rotary Freak
iTrader: (21)
yea at temps above 100f I think its best to at least have a cool down lap every 10-15min max. At least with the stock dual coolers. I personally stopped going to the track during the summer, especially streets of willow which is in the desert because its just too nasty when its hot.
I sweat like a dog, get sweat in my eyes while driving, tires melt, brakes fade earlier, engine runs hotter... Its a headache and not too enjoyable. Couple times I went by myself and didnt bring a cooler or a canopy...I had quite the farmers tan when I got home.
I sweat like a dog, get sweat in my eyes while driving, tires melt, brakes fade earlier, engine runs hotter... Its a headache and not too enjoyable. Couple times I went by myself and didnt bring a cooler or a canopy...I had quite the farmers tan when I got home.
#41
^^ That's not a stupid question at all. Only thing tho is that for a generally stockish plumbed setup, you have a large area directly in front of the car dedicated to IC/rad air, and two more areas on the sides specifically for oil coolers. From a plumbing/mounting/airflow/simplicity perspective, I would stick with that setup... but that's just me I think it also heavily depends on your bumper openings/airflow to the coolers. But anything is possible... just have to justify it, measure it, try it, and report your results. Then you can say it was worthwhile. My $0.02
#44
If it's fast I'm There
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mdpalmer thanks for the pics and the diagram.
I have included a few pics of all the lines I received from the seller and question if one line is the one from the passenger cooler or the one I already have on the car.
If anyone can give me a positive answer, I would appreciate it. I am trying to have everything in order before I start the job.
Line in Question
All lines including the one to the oil pedestal, which I know that I already have on the car.
I have included a few pics of all the lines I received from the seller and question if one line is the one from the passenger cooler or the one I already have on the car.
If anyone can give me a positive answer, I would appreciate it. I am trying to have everything in order before I start the job.
Line in Question
All lines including the one to the oil pedestal, which I know that I already have on the car.
#45
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is there any specific proceedure on how to fill the system with oil ? or simply turn the key and start the car?
when you install an engine after a rebuild and these new oil coolers , the system is completely dry.
is it ok for the engine to start?
when you install an engine after a rebuild and these new oil coolers , the system is completely dry.
is it ok for the engine to start?
#46
mdpalmer thanks for the pics and the diagram.
I have included a few pics of all the lines I received from the seller and question if one line is the one from the passenger cooler or the one I already have on the car.
If anyone can give me a positive answer, I would appreciate it. I am trying to have everything in order before I start the job.
Line in Question
I have included a few pics of all the lines I received from the seller and question if one line is the one from the passenger cooler or the one I already have on the car.
If anyone can give me a positive answer, I would appreciate it. I am trying to have everything in order before I start the job.
Line in Question
I let my FD sit for 2 months one time w/o starting it up, I would imagine oil coating/thickness/protection on internal parts like bearings, etc. would be similar to a fresh built engine. It took a few seconds for oil pressure to come up, when normally (I normally drive it 3 times a week) it would be almost instantaneous after cranking it over.
Talk to your engine builder. From reading internet posts, sounds like a lot of chevy v8 guys just fire the engine up and let it build pressure, should be w/in seconds.
#48
Eats, Sleeps, Dreams Rotary
iTrader: (52)
Since this thread was bumped I thought I would share the information that I posted on another OEM dual cooler thread. If anyone needs pictures or parts placement, then just ask.
This will completely replace all OEM lines with SS line & AN fittings using the OEM oil coolers. No fitment issues with A/C. Be sure to cover the SS lines with plastic loom at possible rub points.
http://www.batinc.net/
QTY....OIL COOLER FITTINGS…………………………………..........................PAR T#............PRICE
4.... Male 22 MM X1.5 MM metric concave seat -10 AN aluminum...AM22AN10...............12.95--- 51.80
13 ft -10 aeroquip line.............................................. .................FC3-10.....................6.50---84.50
2.... 45 degree alu -10 hose end............................................... ....T45-10..................18.75---37.50
2.... straight alu -10 hose end............................................... ........TS-10......................8.95---17.90
1.... male 18 MM X 1.5 Metric concave seat to -10 AN steel...........AM18AN10.................9.85
2.... 90 degree alum -10 hose end............................................... .T90-10...................37.50
1.... "Metric Banjo -AN Male"............................................. .............BJ1810M...............30.15
1.... banjo bolt.............................................. .................................BJBM18........... ....11.90
2.... seals............................................. ..........................................DS-M18................0.80--- 1.60
$282.70
This will completely replace all OEM lines with SS line & AN fittings using the OEM oil coolers. No fitment issues with A/C. Be sure to cover the SS lines with plastic loom at possible rub points.
http://www.batinc.net/
QTY....OIL COOLER FITTINGS…………………………………..........................PAR T#............PRICE
4.... Male 22 MM X1.5 MM metric concave seat -10 AN aluminum...AM22AN10...............12.95--- 51.80
13 ft -10 aeroquip line.............................................. .................FC3-10.....................6.50---84.50
2.... 45 degree alu -10 hose end............................................... ....T45-10..................18.75---37.50
2.... straight alu -10 hose end............................................... ........TS-10......................8.95---17.90
1.... male 18 MM X 1.5 Metric concave seat to -10 AN steel...........AM18AN10.................9.85
2.... 90 degree alum -10 hose end............................................... .T90-10...................37.50
1.... "Metric Banjo -AN Male"............................................. .............BJ1810M...............30.15
1.... banjo bolt.............................................. .................................BJBM18........... ....11.90
2.... seals............................................. ..........................................DS-M18................0.80--- 1.60
$282.70
#50
Good idea. Another thing you may consider is putting fire proof sleeve over the lines. For -10 line looks like you can use these in 7/8 ID:
http://www.pegasusautoracing.com/pro...p?Product=3299
The sleeve is kinda ugly however.. it has a nasty orange color to it. From what I gather this hose is very durable. I covered my stainless steel clutch lines with this stuff.
http://www.pegasusautoracing.com/pro...p?Product=3299
The sleeve is kinda ugly however.. it has a nasty orange color to it. From what I gather this hose is very durable. I covered my stainless steel clutch lines with this stuff.