mykq

iTrader: (1)

So this monring I go to take my car to the store when my favorite red light turns on I freak out and shut off my car. For some reason I figure to let it run and check for leaks. Than I turn it back on and the light doesn't turn on at all. I checked for leaks found non and ran it down the street and back let the temps get back to normal and the needle didn't run above the middle. If it helps Koyo radiator, stock AST and the car is all the stock. I'm going to replace the radiator cap, AST, and t-stat when they arrive. Would that be the problem? If someone says rebuiled I swear!--->

Larz

The coolant sensor itself may be whacked out. It's around 50 bucks from malloy. The pressure cap could result in all your coolant sitting in your overflow tank. Check that. Also, hose clamp the lines that go from the AST to the overflow. You can lose pressure there, too. And eliminate or replace that stock AST!

CantGoStraight

I don't think I'd go blaming the level sensor till I confirmed the actual level. It's typical for the light/buzzer to come on then go out shortly there after when the coolant drops in the thermostat housing.

FDZero

iTrader: (10)

The factory water temp gauge is faulty prone to staying at the center-mark at all times pretty much regardless how hot the car's coolant/water temp actually is...so your car could be overheating even if the needle points half way between "C" and "H". If you don't have one...get an aftermarket water temp...one of the first thigns you should get for FDs.

goz

any links for temp guages?gotta get one asap.. thanks