SPOautos

No, its not a fragil clutch, its just that your using it in a street application that its not designed for. When you release the clutch and all that pressure slams into the flywheel with those super friction gripping pads it holds and goes. HOWEVER, if you are pulling form a redlight and let out like a normal car you delay the clutch which makes it touch the flywheel but not totally grip it so basically your slipping the clutch and that is going to wear down those pads AND the flywheel. That clutch is designed for you to just tach up the rpm and just drop the clutch. It slams on, grips, and goes....there is no slipping involved.

Thats why its a track clutch not a street clutch.

STEPHEN

GoodfellaFD3S

iTrader: (213)

Hola Van,

I have had my current ACT HD street/strip HD pp and lwfw setup for over 52k miles and about 3.5 yrs. Been making over 400 at the wheels for about 1.5 yrs, although not too many miles. My motor is out right now and clutch disk and flywheel look good. And I have about 200 passes down the strip with with this setup. I'm with Artguy on this one......

SPOautos

Oh yea, one other thing....When you insalled the clutch what did you tq it down to?

STEPHEN

reza

Yeap...my diff may not be good either, but I am not saying it suck, you know, because it last 120,000+ miles.

When my ACT clutch only last a few events, it sucks right? This is what I am saying, poor quality of a product.

Hey, I am not sure where SPOAutos get the idea that I am using it for street. I have to get from home to track. There is more miles to go to track than autocross/drift event itself.

Oh yea, I am also commenting on the 6 puck clutch specifically, not the street/strip. Because that one is just like stock.

clayne

Are we having a comprehension issue here?

If I buy a set of new stock twins, setup the wastegate and exhaust so I can generate 20 psi of positive pressure, and then promptly melt down the turbine side (presuming I make it past detonation), who's fault is it?

Do I immediately get out of the car and shout "stock turbos are POS!"

You're using the product outside it's intended scope - hence it's not poor quality of product - it's poor application and use of product.

Clutch-kicking is NOT normal. Repeated continual driveline shock in a small portion of time is NOT normal.

Good luck finding a clutch that will hold the power you desire AND take the abuse you want to give it. Perhaps you should find another method of creating instant rear-end traction loss. Maybe have a drift buddy sit in the hatch and shove a steel pipe in the spokes of your wheel whenever you need that extra long drift.

Fd3BOOST

iTrader: (7)

That flywheel could be resurfaced and that clutch has plenty of meat on it. LOL
You should see my disc. Nothing left but a tiny bit of metal and a few rivits. Not to mention a **** load of dust.

reza

Hmmm...Clayne...you are going on personal attack now.....Sorry.

FD3Boost, yea it has some meat, but the metal round thing on the flywheel side is eating into the flywheel, and I am not taking chances getting stuck again at some remote track far away from home. I don't have trailer or unlimited tow AAA
I think what happened last time to me is the metal round thing on the puck gets too hot, then just bond together with the flywheel.

clayne

Nothing personal reza, I would just prefer you do not bad mouth products that work perfectly fine for everyone else using them in an acceptable manner.

That's how bad product myths get started.

SPOautos

I got that idea from there. Like I said that pressure plate / race disk combo is designed for clutch dumps not pulling away from a red light.

I personally would have though more than 1K miles though....which is why I asked you how many lbs you torqued it down to.

ronarndt

The ACT clutch pictured in this post is a solid hub for track use only. The ACT description warns that it is not for street use. There are no frenel springs under the friction surface and no sprung center hub to absorb the starting shock for street use for stop and go driving. Unless you trailer your car to the track, you will either have to do a tire-smoking burn-out from every stop sign or you will have to slip the clutch and heat the lining up. Also, that clutch kicking sounds like a good way to take a couple thousand miles off the clutch each time. Using a clutch for an application for which it was not designed does not make it a POS. My $0.02.
Ron A.

SPOautos

Actually if you think its getting super hot and bonding together with the flywheel that would be caused by clutch sliping. You absolutly can not slip a race disk clutch at all. You will ruin it and the flywheel. That clutch has to be either on or off, you cant slip them by giving it rpms with the clutch partially engaged/disengaged
STEPHEN

reza

Well, I have to get somewhere with the car, autocross, car meets, work. This is not my daily driver. Its driven about once a week at the most. So it will see some street whether I want it or not. If I could afford trailer and SUV + the gas, I would prefer to trailer it.

I did not install the ACT clutch.
I did swap it to the old stock one on saturday though...and on the one last night, I just guess.
Would you explain to me about the torque requirement on the bolts, why is it important? I am lacking in that area. I know nothing about clutch work until it failed on me at Thunderhill(its a race track about 160miles away).
I would appreciate if you would write something about it.

reza

Just for clarification;
1.
On street, I would hold rpm about 1000-1200, then drop the clutch pretty fast. So it chatter about twice, then my car go or die. In the beginning when I got the clutch, mostly died. Then I got better. So no need for high rev slipping and launch. I learn this from other people that has 6-puck.

2. Clutch Kick, I did not learn this from those drift videos. I was informed by some other racer/drifter. I went to drift events, so you learn there.
Basically, you disengage the clutch and engage it again.
Similar to drag launches. Where you put RPM at 4000, then drop the clutch. Except, I did it while moving at speed...

SPOautos

Your only supposed to tq them down about 20-25lbs (cant remember the exact number at the moment). If you go over that your changing the tolerances and getting the disk closer and closer to the flywheel.

I had a shop install a clutch for me one time and they figured since it was a "race clutch" that was going to see a lot of abuse they should put it on with a air wrench at about 50ft lbs. That clutch lasted about 2000 miles and ate up my flywheel. I had it replaced with the exact same clutch and its still going strong after 15000 miles. The 2nd clutch was installed by me with a tq wrench at about 25ft lbs.

The more your tq it down the smaller those tolerances are. I fugred that the way my clutch was installed the disk was always touching the flywheel, maybe just barely but just barely is enough to wear

STEPHEN

skunks

how wide are your tires reza? in anycsae, i don't think that clutch was very good as it should have easily took it, clutch kicking is much less stress full i think then a full on drag launch as your tires should spin nearly instantly and there should not really be that much stress on the clutch to tell you the truth. also, as your already at the limit of grip, i doubt there was that much stress on the clutch as even our very weak ebrakes can start a slide.

BTW: How many of you guys actually get sideways in your FD's?

SPOautos

Its not traction or lack of that kills a 6 puck race clutch. What kills them is the pads making contact with the flywheel but it not having full pressure cause your foot is still partially on the clutch. That wears them out. They are designed for the full force to slam it to the flywheel, in which case it wouldnt really rub it would just lock down and go

STEPHEN

reza

225/50/16 Kumho Ecsta MX.
Very easy to slide because the narrow width.
I clutch kick while turning the steering wheel, not in straight.

It is really hard to swing FD without clutch kick.

clayne

"It is really hard to swing FD without clutch kick."

And why do you think that is?

reza

Yeap, exactly what you say is what I want out of the clutch in the beginning, that is why I got the extreme and the 6puck disk.

Clutch kick is not partial on clutch. It is a kick to disengage and letgo to engage. The final effect should be like dropping the clutch on drag start.

reza

The feint motion requires a lot of space,
plus FD is a really good grip and balance car. Which I like for autocross. Its an awesome car.

skunks

225 is not narrow, its actually fairly wide as far as drift tires go.

BTW: our stock rims can easily fit anythign between 205-245, im running 205's in the rear and 215 in the fronts for mines.


also what psi are you at again?

oh yeah i almost forgot, you can use power over to easily get your rear end out. our cars should have plenty of power to do that.

SPOautos

when you have the clutch taken off have then use a tq wrench and you be there so you can see what it was tqed down to. If it wasnt within spec tq it VERY well could be what caused the problem. WHen over tqed mine only lasted 2K at most

STEPHEN

reza

I used to drift with 245/45/16 Yoko ES100. It was pretty good. Easier to control than the 225/50/16.
I might try 205, what size is it? 205/50/16?
Running about 38psi front and 34psi rear. I use this same pressure for auto-x and drift events.

Power Over? No way...I am going 35-45mph in 2nd gear going into a turn on race track. I can't do power over...It will stick and send me off track, or just going faster.


SPOAutos: Thank you for the advice. I am going to do that when my stock cluth worn out, and putting in new clutch. Hopefully not so soon, I can't spent money now.

skunks

hmmm 35mph is kinda slow to be drifting espeically on a race track... i mean for a beginner its ok but you sound much more experienced.

also i was wondering if you were buying new tires? unless your sliding at 70+mph in very narrow lanes, you should be using used free tires to screw around with and practice on... i have like 40-50 pairs laying outside right now waiting to be shreaded

jspecracer7

Awww...Richipoo...Well, at least ONE ACT owner had done the impossible. Good to see they make a decent product if installed properly(assuming that Steve "Genghis" Kan helped you...or someone else who's knowledgeable of course).

The ONE thing I never worry about is my clutch. A blind crippled and crazy 80 year old woman could drive my car with the clutch that's in it now. It's THAT streetable. That crazy old hag may not be able to turn my steering wheel, but she sure as hell won't have problems engaging/disengaging my clutch and getting the car to move.

But whatever...I'll say this again I(I as in jspecracer7 as in Mr. Van Diesel himself) will NEVER EVER own an act/exedy clutch.