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So i got a new 99 spec Depo parking light assembly and it came with LEDs. They are nice, brighter output, but the turn signals hyper-flash because of the lack of resistance. So, they will need a load resister. Question, should i splice in a resister at the turn signal, or before the split (that goes to the parking light) so there's resistance to both the turn signal and parking light?
I would change the R1 resistor in the flasher circuit of the CPU#2 under the leftt side kick panel. This will fix the hyperflash for all your LED turn signals you might use. Look at the multiple posts about it on this site. Change to 1M ohm.
Mike
I just did it last week. Fairly easy. Unscrew the small screw at the bottom panel. Use two small knifes to pry open the bottom plate. Put the circuit board out with small pliers. Unsolder R1 and resolder in the new resistor. I used a 1/4 watt resistor which is slightly larger so replace it with the main cylinder more perpendicular to the board rather than flat on the board. That's it.
Mike
I'm a little apprehensive about messing with a NLA PCB, but i think i have an extra laying around. Is there any ill effect changing/deleting the R1 resistor if the other bulbs are still incandescent?
Not to my knowledge. I also have front LED turn signals and rear incandescent still. I don't know if you have differing combinations if it would make any difference depending on differing wattages and resistances. The reason I did it this way is I didn't want to have to add higher powered resistors all over the place for every light I changed to LED, even in the future. Plus, these higher wattage resistors would get hot and could melt or burn something in close proximity. Even those not super easy to get the CPU#2 out, much better for the long run.
Mike
In the absence of any soldering, you can simply snip one leg of the R1 resistor to get the same effect of eliminating hyper-flash. I removed mine completely some time ago, with no ill effects to date.
Note: I have LED bulbs in the front flashers, but none in the rear.
In the absence of any soldering, you can simply snip one leg of the R1 resistor to get the same effect of eliminating hyper-flash. I removed mine completely some time ago, with no ill effects to date.
Note: I have LED bulbs in the front flashers, but none in the rear.
I'm a little apprehensive about messing with a NLA PCB, but i think i have an extra laying around. Is there any ill effect changing/deleting the R1 resistor if the other bulbs are still incandescent?
The resistor mod (and I guess the resistor wire snip) basically eliminates the safety circuit that lets the driver know when a bulb is burned out from the lower resistance across the circuit (i.e. hyper flash). That said, I did this mod a few years ago with no ill effects. My soldiering skills are basic, and it was not difficult. My car also has a mix of bulbs, LED in back and incandescent in front.
Modifying the CPU is the way to go. I've seen problems with people using resistors - they generate a good amount of heat and can cause wiring problems or melt nearby plastic parts.
Glad you found my thread on modding the CPU, that will get it done for you!
For update I had a spare CPU2 from a '93 I had parted so I used that as a test dummy. Instead of cutting the R1 resister, I heated one connection at the PCB and pulled that end out leaving the other end soldered
This worked! However, I went to start the car a few days later and got the security interlock relay issue. Not sure if that was related to this mod or the '93 CPU2, but I never had that problem before. Anywho, I bypassed the security interlock relay and all is good (after replacing and unreplacing my starter )
09-27-18, 04:47 PM
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