SleepR1

Thanks, Jason. I have '99 Type RS/RZ brakes all around

Chronos

Hey, since we're talking about brakes, I actually have a technique question I'd like to ask you

How do you manage to rev-match when downshifting under hard braking??? I just got my car back (FINALLY) and it's running superb with no vibration in the higher revs like before, so I started practicing this again. I can match the revs perfectly when downshifting before I apply the brakes, but if I try and do it at the same time, it's a huge mess because there's no room for me move around my leg to position my right foot correctly for the heal-toe action. I also have a fairly big frame at 6'1 220lbs, so that probably adds to it. How do you deal with this???

cruiser

Chronos, I'm about the same figure as you and I can do it. But I had to install a smaller wheel to do it successfully. Maybe you shouldn't think of heel-toeing as in that you have to put your heel on one pedal and toe on another. Try sidestepping technique.

Chronos

I'm a bit leery of both of those techniques as it's not nearly as clean and it forms a bad habbit. I think my only way to get around this is to bolt a bucket to the frame and get a smaller wheel or some afterwheel spacer or whatever, which I really didn't want to do so soon...Thanks a bunch for the input though, I'm still curious to see what a FD racing veteran has done to get around this!

*Ohh my, I've become quite the post *****, sorry for hijacking the thread Manny!

Kento

All you really need to do is move your right knee over to the right a bit (lean it into the center console), and your foot will touch the throttle while it's on the brake. It won't take much actual movement of the throttle. Don't try to make a conscious effort to swivel your foot; just move your knee, and your foot will follow. Consciously swiveling your foot also compromises your action and feel on the brake pedal.

Sorry for getting off topic....

cruiser

One problem that I still have is that I find the brake pedal too low (even after I changed the brake fluid) or the throttle pedal too high when I want to sidestep. Gotta find a way to adjust it or something...

SleepR1

Off/topic.

Read a book on the proper way to heel-toe downshift. I think Going Faster has a section on this technique?

Heel-toe-downshifting is a misnomer with modern cars. Back in the ole days (early 1900s), the brake pedal was set up where you would use your heel for the brake pedal. Modern car pedal setups call for you to use the ball of your right foot to enage the brake pedal, while the outside of your right foot, blip the throttle. As the revs begin to drop after the throttle blip, you should be able to downshift in a butter-smooth fashion.

FWIW, a lightweight flywheel helps with decreasing the amount of throttle input needed to create the "blip". This is one reason I went swapped to the 8.5-lb billet aluminum flywheel

Proper heel-toe technique takes practice, and I would do this with the car just sitting in the garage. Make car noises if you have too, to get the timing right LOL

If you have long legs, this technique might be a problem, so yes a smaller diameter steering wheel, and lower seats would help.

You can adjust your brake pedal as high as it will go, so that when you engage the brake pedal with full pedal pressure, you don't inadvertently engage the throttle pedal.

Stainless steel brake lines help with having a firm brake pedal.

Good luck.

ptrhahn

iTrader: (9)

I bought an extra brake pedal, cut off the arm, and bolted it to my pedal with abot 1.4" standoffs. This way, when I brake, the brake pedal is much higher than the gas. This makes it easy for me to heel-toe (its actually big toe/left ball of foot, and right side of foot/toe) with my legs in the slightly splayed position they are normally in. Good heel/toeing requires the pedals be in just the right positions for YOU. thats why most racecars have adjustable pedals.

FDNoi2egard

OFF TOPIC:


Why not just use your clutch to rev match after you shift? It isnt any slower, although a little harder on your synchros........unless you are all running race trannies, in which case, nevermind. I am just failing to see the reasoning behind this....

rynberg

Please explain what the hell you are talking about. You blip the gas to rev match. How do you propose doing that with the clutch pedal?

SleepR1

FDNoi2egard

Because that is what your synchros are made to do....match the RPMs in your drivetrain.....if the clutch isnt "kicked" and you slip it a little bit, by the time the clutch is engaged, the speeds are matched....Instead of speeding up the engine, shift a little later and let the engine slow down the car a little.....works fine.

rynberg

It's obvious you've never been to a track. Not only is your technique (if I'm understanding it correctly) far inferior to heel-toeing on the track, you will destroy synchros in short order.

Also with your technique, unless you do it flawlessly, you are going to be going backwards off the track in the 1st corner.

SleepR1

Don't mean to read abrasive, but I think people are missing the point for why you want to heel-toe-dowshift. This is strictly a road course/rally course driving technique for accomplishing two things at once. With heel-toe, you're braking and downshifting at the same time. You try to match revs by blipping b/c many racing gearboxes did NOT come with synchros. Nowadays, we have synchromesh, but you'll wear them out very quickly if you don't blip the throttle to match revs before downshifting. Without meaning to boast, I have the original gearbox in my car after 118,000+ miles, and probably 20,000 miles of road course driving LOL Still shifts well, although 2nd gear upshifts are becoming rougher when the gearbox oil is cold.

FDNoi2egard

LOL, not in my car....I have a Kia Spectra..its too slow...never had a problem in my Monte SS though....RWD and 400+ HP....also, though it doesnt mean much, I know....I have put almost 13,000 HARD city miles on that Kia in the last four months with that method, downshifting for every turn and stoplight. The clutch doesnt slip and the gears dont grind. I could see where you would cause a lot of wear if you downshifting way early trying to make the engine slow you down.

If you KNOW where the matched speed is for a certain gear, leave it in the higher gear and just brake until you are very near that speed.....In my experience, the rear will not pop out unless you do it early...I have VERY little track time, so I probably need some advice on my technique. But from all my 8 years driving experience (WOW!!! lol) I have never felt that I was taking any corner signifigantly slower than anyone else in the same car...so again I ask you:

Why blip the throttle? (Not looking for flames, insults or smartass comments....its an honest question....feel free to PM me the answer so this thread can stay on track)

rynberg

Imagine doing 120mph and hitting the brakes to the point of lock-up down to 60 mph for the turn at the end of the straight. Do you think your technique will still work? You need to downshift quickly during braking without upsetting the car. It is MUCH easier to do that by blipping the throttle than my trying to match revs when you are rapidly decellerating.

On the street, your technique may work OK but it's still hard on the transmission. And a Kia doesn't exactly have the torque to kick the rear end sideways on a poorly executed downshift. BTW, when did Monte's come with manual trannies?

cruiser

Listen to rynberg, he knows what he's talking about. It takes just a few corners after a long straight in an FD to realize you need to learn something or you will either:
1) not be fast
2) will be going sideways into corners
3) or worst, spinning off the track

If you can do it on the street also, its and extra bonus for your drivetrain.

SleepR1

Thanks, Chronos, for hi-jacking this thread LOL

FDNoi2egard

87, came with an automatic and 305, ended up putting a manual and S/C 383 in it. I am almost certain they came from the factory with manuals then. My tranny came out of a Camaro, however. And no, LOL, the Kia cant kick the rear, even when I try....FWD sucks. I will try this technique though, see what it is all about. Thanks guys.

Tim Benton

iTrader: (1)

On related note, looking at the dyno in this thread, you notice a dramatic drop off in primary turbo HP and looking at the logged runs, the boost would go from around 14 down all the way to 7 psi. I've found the resulting boost leak and it was a huge leak to say the least, but even on the dyno with spectators around, no one noticed the sound. I'll be heading back to the dyno to re-run the same map that made the 363 and see what it makes. I doubt I'll pick up much in the top end, but will on the primary where now it goes from 13ish psi (I lowered the duty cycles trying to figure out the loose of boost) and it does the 2 psi drop to 11 and then transitions nicely. It might pick a couple in the top end since the turbos are having to blow as hard to keep up the 14 psi like before so the air might be a little cooler and denser as a result.

Tim

damian

iTrader: (2)

hey tim, i have some 99 specs going on my 95 'street' car, it has similar mods to your car so im looking forward to some good safe power, i still have all stock injectors so im guessing I'll be limited by fuel delivery...and i only want to run 12 psi, .... so im hoping for close to 300rwhp with a good steve kan tune in the spring if i can get him over here :-)

KaiFD3S

iTrader: (37)

very nice #'s

fstncln

Does anyone have a feel for how the 99 spec turbos compare to the BNR stage 3 setup? I have a 95 with a stock/unported engine, the BNR setup, and these mods: Petitt intake, hard pipe kit, efini y-pipe, Greddy/Trust stock mount IC, Bonez DP and high flow cat, Greddy ti cat back. I'm also running an HKS twin power with accel wires and 8/9 NGK platinums. All hoses are silicone and are zip tied. I have a PFC, 1300cc secondaries, Denso pump and ERL water injection. Tuning was done by Apexi. The max boost they were able to get was .9/.8 and I only got 269 hp/220 torque on their dyno so something's wrong. I think I should be getting a lot more considering the parts installed and the quality of the tuning. Gotham (where I bought the turbos) and BNR says I should be getting 390-400 at the wheels. Does this sound right? Shouldn't the BNRs make more power vs 99s?

I'm going to run a compression test since the engine has 82k miles on it. It was good when I last checked, the car hasn't had any obvious problems since and I don't blow out any oil smoke other than the slight puff on startup. Idle is smooth, runs good. I don't hear/see any boost leaks, anything else I should look for?

Comments? Suggestions? Experiences with the BNRs? I'd like to get a better idea of what's realistic to expect and make sure I check out as much as possible before I go back to Gotham/BNR. The install was done at XS and seems to be right.

Tim Benton

iTrader: (1)

your way down on power with those mods and at that boost level. what A/F ratio did they tune for? Was the water injection used during the tuning?

Tim

Boostn7

Congrats Tim, those are very nice numbers:-)

Even on the 99 spec turbos the compressor wheels are of the same size primary or secondary.....but they're 1mm smaller then the USA versions with better effiency from low boost to ~14psi thanks to different fin design and the "abradable housing" design.

>Boost was set for 1.00 psi/kg on the PFC and that was what I hit on the second turbo .99 to 1.00 to redline. So that breaks down to 14.22 psi for the run, which I verified from the logged run comparing my PIM voltage in the manual.<

Unless your PowerFC was corrected on the offset your 1.00kg/cm2 is easily ~15psi.

With the twin turbos(99 spec or USA versions) hp gains after 15-16psi are very minimal....they're best gains are from 10-15psi.

Good luck
Let's see another 400rwh from OEM twins:-)