DarkLikePoe

Okay, so I've done some research and here's what I THINK I want to do before summer. I don't want to skimp on the items, believe me, but if there are better-priced parts out there, let me know where to find them.

Koyo Radiator ~ $400
Pettit AST ~ $160
185 Fan Switch ~ $50
180 Thermostat ~ $15
Downpipe ~ $300
High-Flow Cat ~ $400
Apexi Turbo Timer ~ $75
SPA Water Temp/Oil Press Gauge ~ $330
Autometer Boost Gauge ~ $70

So far, I'm up to $1800. I'm torn between finding an Apexi PFC or just ordering a tuned ECU. I've seen new PFCs going for $950-1150 (incl. Commander) and tuned ECUs costing around $700-$800. While I'm all about saving money, I'm also about flexibility and I want to keep downtime to a minimum. I am planning on installing everything myself, so since I'm not shelling out on labor, I don't particularly mind spending more to get a PFC. At the same time, I don't want to Mickey Mouse the tuning - if ECU hard tuning is a better way to go, I would prefer to do that.

Cliff's Notes:
- Planning on spending about $3000.
- Focusing on reliability mods, want to build for room to grow... need opinions.
- Custom tune ECU vs. PFC. Help!

KX500FD1

I guess PFCs are harder to come by these days, but I got mine from Japan for $800

it's well worth it, the chipped ECUs are a band aid

str8ryd

iTrader: (473)

Everything looks good to me. You seem to know what you're doing. ONLY suggestion I have for you is regarding purchasing the parts. I'd suggest posting all those items in the F/S section as a "WTB Thread" and you should easily find everything you need PLUS save a ton of money .

Also, go with a better boost gauge. Autometer straight up sucks!!!

polyfc

i'd drop the turbo timer, it's a bit superfluous. if you drive the car easy for a few minutes before you get home you'll be fine. it'll save you almost 100 bucks for say, a better boost gauge like str8ryd was talking about.
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...ht=turbo+timer

Kento

There is no such thing as a "custom tune" rechipped stock ECU. The rechipped ECUs are all basically broad application units that cannot be "tuned" for a specific setup. The PFC can be tuned for a specific setup, but you will need more than just the PFC and Commander to do that. The rechipped ECUs are a plug-and-play item that allow you to install various bolt-ons and have a very good running car. The PFC allows you to have a great running car, but you have to do a little more work to get it.

The problem with just throwing out general questions like this is that you'll get any number of varying opinions on products that can be based on fact or heresay. For instance, Autometer boost gauges don't "suck"; I've had no issues with mine during 7 years of use. The only way to really get what you need is to do more research so that you can make your own informed decision, instead of having to sort through dozens of conflicting opinions. Just a suggestion.

rx7what

iTrader: (6)

The rad is a little high. Koyo is good but I like fluyidine. They are realy almost the same.

You should be able to pick up a aluminume AST for $100 either used on here or on ebay.

You should be able to pick up a nice used down pipe for 200 or less on here.

Every thing else looks right. You should be able to find a power FC with comander for around $800. Its worth it. And use the extra money I just saved you to upgrade your gauges to Defi or apex i or some other high end brand.

dgeesaman

iTrader: (7)

What are your maintenance plans? How many miles on the car, what are its previous maintenance records like, what do you intend to do with the car (and how often), and what maintenance have you already done?

Definitely skip the turbo timer - you have water cooled turbos. I have an autometer and I have had no problems with it. I guess if the idea that someday it might not work perfectly really bothers you, then you can spend another $100 for a 'better' gauge. I figure I'd have to replace mine 3 times before the fancy gauge would have paid for itself.

To get the best possible tune, buy a PFC and find the best tuner around and put a little extra money into tuning time. While other tunable ECUs have better technical specs, no other ECU has been put to the 3rd gen more and with more success. The reprogrammed stock ecus work fine for getting more fuel to the engine, but in terms of tune quality they lose.

Dave

DarkLikePoe

Wow! Thanks for the quick replies everyone. Keep 'em coming!

I appreciate your input, but don't feel like I'm throwing out real general questions. I'm not asking how much to spend if I want my car to run right or anything. I've already done quite a bit of research, and the problem is that regardless of where I look, it seems as if someone is trying to sell me something. Maybe it's me, but I don't trust a vendor to tell me which part is better, especially when money's involved. I also don't feel like I can trust a lot of the older, dead-link-ridden FD FAQ sites (some of which come recommended by this forum's FAQ link) because I've already confirmed that some critical information presented as fact is/was speculatory at best.

Honestly, I like getting the pulse of the community. I don't need unanimous confirmation for my plans, and conflicting opinions don't bother me so much. What works for some may or may not work for me, but knowing what others are doing helps me get a feel for what my options are.

DarkLikePoe

The chassis has 141K on it, the engine and turbos have about 58K. I have regular maintenance records since 37K chassis miles and documentation on all major labor from the previous owner. Since buying the car, I did the immediate oil and fuel filter change. I would have flushed the cooling system, but maintenance records show it was done only 3K miles ago. (Probably needs to be burped anyway...)

This is going to be a coastal highway cruiser and canyon runner that can double as a date night car. No use taking the Corolla to the pier, methinks. Right now, my power goals are, I think, pretty reasonable. I want to see 300rwhp by the middle of summer but am focused on building the car to handle it reliably first. I teach, so summer is play time, and the 7 will probably be a regular part of that.

dgeesaman

iTrader: (7)

If the full set of coolant hoses weren't replaced in the last 5 years, do that.

If the suspension bushings / pillowballs haven't been changed in the last 60k, plan to change some of them.

If the turbos aren't giving full boost, plan to have the UIM off and change a bunch of stuff over there. If your records show when the vacuum hoses, solenoids(?), FPD, injectors, plug wires, etc were last serviced then those are worth considering too.

Dave

Kento

I'm not asking you to trust vendor websites. I'm just talking about spending more time (yes, it definitely can be tedious) searching this forum for various threads on particular questions you have.
There's plenty of good info on some vendor websites, but separating the wheat from the chaff requires even more research or prior knowledge, which isn't within the scope of what you're looking for at the moment.
By searching threads here, "getting the pulse of the community" and knowing what others are doing is what you get for the most part. Approaching it with your frame of mind is good, as long as you understand that knowing the whys and hows of these various modifications (including some of the pitfalls of trying to skimp on some items) will help you make the right decision for you.

KX500FD1

good ol KK is just too articulate for this forum

inquiring minds wanna kinow: 2007 GSXR1000 or 2007 ZX-10?

think I'll go with the 10

rynberg

First of all, thanks for spending some time researching things before posting! Here's my comments:

Does the car already have an aftermarket cat-back exhaust? If not, I would recommend that before the hi-flow cat. If you want to keep a nice quality quieter note with good looks, there is nothing better than the Racing Beat dual-tip.

I would go with the Fluidyne over the Koyo, less fitment problems.
Any aluminum AST will be fine.
You do not need to buy the FC fan switch if you get a PFC.
You do not need a cooler t-stat (not a good idea).
I'm really surprised a car with 141k on it doesn't have one already, but go with a SS one.
Get a hi-flow with an air pump tube. I will likely be selling my Bonez with only 1k miles on it soon.
FORGET the turbo timer. Worthless crap.
For as much as that dual temp gauge costs, I would go with Defis or other high quality and good looking gauges. You do not need an oil pressure gauge, the stock one works fine. You don't really need an oil temp gauge either unless you are tracking the car. For your uses, boost and water temp with warning lights would be best.

You can buy a new PFC+Commander for under $800. Otherwise you can find used Pettit ecus for $400. The base PFC map will be fine for 10-11 psi with your planned mods. At some point down the line, you can pick up the Datalogit add-on for the PFC to really gain tuning power.

I'm also glad to see you are avoiding a midpipe for now. It is a serious modification and should only be done with all supporting mods in place (ported wastegate, extra fuel, etc).

rynberg

To add one more thing (there's ALWAYS one more thing with this car!): How many miles on your clutch? Once you start getting up into the upper 200 rwhp range, you can start having slipping issues.

Given your uses and when the time comes, I recommend the ACT Street/Strip clutch. At that time, you will also have to decide if a lighter flywheel is something you would want.

Nathan Kwok

I'd echo what's said here but also add that you should save money for just normal stock replacement parts before worrying about a PFC or other power upgrades. Use a stock thermostat (it begins opening at 177F). I'd just go ahead and replace that when you get your radiator installed. I wouldn't get a high-flow cat unless there is something wrong with your current one. Chances are, there are a lot of worn out parts on the car that need replacing. If the chassis has 141k I'd get a full bushing replacement before worrying about power. I'd also make sure the engine runs SMOOTHLY, meaning no boost spikes, dip, etc. Replace vacuum lines and solenoids if you have to, and they are expensive. Basically if you have money, first make the car work like its new, then worry about performance upgrades.

DarkLikePoe

rynberg, the clutch grabs great, but I know I'll have to replace it as power levels come up. I have had good experiences with ACT, so thanks for the recommendation. The vacuum lines and rat's nest have been replaced within the last 5K. The suspension needs a little work, but I had thought to put that off until I knew I'd have the engine completely sorted out. I'll look into doing the bushings sooner.

Nathan Kwok, I've been having intermittent heating issues (I think it might just need burping...) that I'm using as an excuse to pour money into the cooling system, and given that the stock pre-cat keeps heat in the engine bay, and given that stock cats have a tendency to fall apart at one time or another, I figure I'll just do both the downpipe and cat while I have the car up.

The reason I'm thinking of going in on a PFC is that I've read in several places that they are going to be/have been discontinued, and I have also found that the only 100% fix for the 3Krpm hesitation issue is ECU tuning. Believe it or not, my goal right now ISN'T power... just more control over how the engine makes it.

Thanks again for all the feedback, guys!

Eggie

DLP, the water-temp gauge is superfluous if you get a PFC & Commander.

rx7what

iTrader: (6)

Exactly. The water temp is the main thing I watch on my power FC.

DarkLikePoe

I know you guys are right, but I'm kind of a freak when it comes to my car's interior. Anything I can do to keep the cabin OEM-clean, I do. I'll get the PFC first anyway and use it for a while and see if having it in plain sight does or doesn't bother me. It's also kind of a theft issue... I work at the "ghetto" school in town...

Aside from keeping the Commander in the glove box most of the time, my ultimate plan is to replace the OEM water temp gauge with the SPA gauge and the OEM oil pressure gauge with a boost gauge. I had even thought to order a 99-spec cluster just because having an OEM boost gauge in that spot so appealed to me. I'm a total aesthetics *****.

In short, thanks for the reality checks. I know I probably won't NEED a gauge, but if a tick develops over the Commander just hanging in the cabin, it's the way I'll go. I say this because you guys should know I've got the OCD with cars... and not just mine. (Funny story for another day.)

FD WannaBe

Good thread. I'll be in the same boat soon. Goodluck.