94 non seq running lean
12-18-13, 02:03 AM
#53
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12-18-13, 07:37 AM
#56
i never have once been against a pfc as stated many times...its not the fact that they are $500,600,700,800....dollars...i have money but i have many other things in life such as a a mortage,three dogs,a 06 gto, a 88 rx7...maintence to keep them going and bills...the fact is i enjoy fixing things and diagnosing things...what did people do before pfc and standalones to just TELL them what the problems where??? i know that my wiring harness is and could be causing this issue along with others.. i can wiggle the wires at the ecu and cause the cel to come on every time usually for the omp or fuel thermosensor. with that being said i would like to start with the wiring and get that fixed for good to not only fix the cel that i can make come on but maybe even my lean condition. REMEMBER i bought this car this was and am trying to fix everything (the fuel pump was already rewired i just ensured the wiring was correct) i would like help and pointers to what to check and maybe ideas to the problem not bashing and just pfc this pfc that. im not planning on getting a pfc unless i have to because the mods that are on it is it, no more and i personally dont think thats too many mods for a stock ecu to handle when monitoring the afrs and other conditions.
12-18-13, 08:39 AM
#58
i never have once been against a pfc as stated many times...its not the fact that they are $500,600,700,800....dollars...i have money but i have many other things in life such as a a mortage,three dogs,a 06 gto, a 88 rx7...maintence to keep them going and bills...the fact is i enjoy fixing things and diagnosing things...what did people do before pfc and standalones to just TELL them what the problems where??? i know that my wiring harness is and could be causing this issue along with others.. i can wiggle the wires at the ecu and cause the cel to come on every time usually for the omp or fuel thermosensor. with that being said i would like to start with the wiring and get that fixed for good to not only fix the cel that i can make come on but maybe even my lean condition. REMEMBER i bought this car this was and am trying to fix everything (the fuel pump was already rewired i just ensured the wiring was correct) i would like help and pointers to what to check and maybe ideas to the problem not bashing and just pfc this pfc that. im not planning on getting a pfc unless i have to because the mods that are on it is it, no more and i personally dont think thats too many mods for a stock ecu to handle when monitoring the afrs and other conditions.
What would people do before hand .. if you are not getting a CODE , then you check your fuel pressure , if thats good check injectors , or fuel filter . or fuel pressure regulator .. But the fact is you're in that said grey area that even with all working components your car will still go lean because it just isnt programmed into the ECU .
12-18-13, 08:47 AM
#60
What people did before they had a community to rely on was blow engines. That is why the rotary engine has such a bad name to everyone else. Countless threads on blowing engines when car was running "fine".
Removal of the cat and non-sequential is an automatic "need tuned standalone ASAP". The fact that you and other people haven't blown the engine yet is sheer luck. You personally thinking the stock ECU is fine means **** all to your engine. When you do blow the engine, we can all say I told you so. We aren't telling you this on a whim, we've all seen it time and time again.
99% sure it is not the wiring, you'd be wasting your time and money. If you wanna try something, pull your injectors out and have them flow tested and cleaned.
thewird
Removal of the cat and non-sequential is an automatic "need tuned standalone ASAP". The fact that you and other people haven't blown the engine yet is sheer luck. You personally thinking the stock ECU is fine means **** all to your engine. When you do blow the engine, we can all say I told you so. We aren't telling you this on a whim, we've all seen it time and time again.
99% sure it is not the wiring, you'd be wasting your time and money. If you wanna try something, pull your injectors out and have them flow tested and cleaned.
thewird
12-18-13, 08:52 AM
#61
what people did before they had a community to rely on was blow engines. That is why the rotary engine has such a bad name to everyone else. Countless threads on blowing engines when car was running "fine".
Removal of the cat and non-sequential is an automatic "need tuned standalone asap". The fact that you and other people haven't blown the engine yet is sheer luck. You personally thinking the stock ecu is fine means **** all to your engine. When you do blow the engine, we can all say i told you so. We aren't telling you this on a whim, we've all seen it time and time again.
99% sure it is not the wiring, you'd be wasting your time and money. If you wanna try something, pull your injectors out and have them flow tested and cleaned.
thewird
Removal of the cat and non-sequential is an automatic "need tuned standalone asap". The fact that you and other people haven't blown the engine yet is sheer luck. You personally thinking the stock ecu is fine means **** all to your engine. When you do blow the engine, we can all say i told you so. We aren't telling you this on a whim, we've all seen it time and time again.
99% sure it is not the wiring, you'd be wasting your time and money. If you wanna try something, pull your injectors out and have them flow tested and cleaned.
thewird
12-18-13, 11:45 AM
#62
ok this is useless guys....thanks for those who have helped me.. ill post up when my engine blows i guess since thats what happens to all rotaries that have a exhaust and no tuning done.....
its not sheer luck that it hasnt blown its not driving it when you know something is wrong and monitoring your ****. your right though i have no luck in getting help from people like you. ill follow up after i put new injectos in.
its not sheer luck that it hasnt blown its not driving it when you know something is wrong and monitoring your ****. your right though i have no luck in getting help from people like you. ill follow up after i put new injectos in.
12-18-13, 01:38 PM
#63
ok this is useless guys....thanks for those who have helped me.. ill post up when my engine blows i guess since thats what happens to all rotaries that have a exhaust and no tuning done.....
its not sheer luck that it hasnt blown its not driving it when you know something is wrong and monitoring your ****. your right though i have no luck in getting help from people like you. ill follow up after i put new injectos in.
its not sheer luck that it hasnt blown its not driving it when you know something is wrong and monitoring your ****. your right though i have no luck in getting help from people like you. ill follow up after i put new injectos in.
lol
12-18-13, 02:00 PM
#64
Get your injectors cleaned, it's cheaper than a pfc...might not fix the problem though. Lol. I don't think a 3rd gen is quite the car to own when you aren't in the financial position to do so.. to each their own I suppose.
Another option is a piggyback.
12-18-13, 02:44 PM
#65
sorry if i came off "hating" i just am looking for advice on what things to troubleshoot rather than spend the money for something to "tell" me. i would love to purchase two power fcs for both rx7s but im not modding this one anymore which is why i want to stay factory ecu. dont get me wrong if it boils down to the ecu is whats causing the problem im getting a power fc no questions asked
12-18-13, 02:52 PM
#66
sorry if i came off "hating" i just am looking for advice on what things to troubleshoot rather than spend the money for something to "tell" me. i would love to purchase two power fcs for both rx7s but im not modding this one anymore which is why i want to stay factory ecu. dont get me wrong if it boils down to the ecu is whats causing the problem im getting a power fc no questions asked
and I told you it would be a simple way to resolve this . Run the turbos off wastegate spring .. if you are still going lean then its not the ECU , if you aren't then its more then likely the ECU this was a cheap quick solution LOL replace the hoses with the pills with regular hoses and drive around abit .
12-18-13, 03:40 PM
#68
Many years ago wade performed lambda test on the stock ecu and empirically proved that the stock ECU can handle boltons safely as long as one stays at 10 psi. The truth is the stock ECU runs pig rich. I have long lost the link to his site but I did find and old post of his:
RavenRX7,
You can't raise the boost safely with the stock ECU. If your boost level is above 10psi for more than a few seconds, the ECU will induce fuel cut to the rear rotor to let you know something is wrong. Hitting fuel cut repeatedly will cause problems.
I don't know why I keep repeating this, but I'll say it again anyway. An FD that doesn't have anything wrong with it will run sufficiently rich even with some mods, as long as the boost is at 10psi or below. I own a wideband and have tested this on a few cars. Stock cars max out my wideband at 10:1, actual a/f is probably richer. There is PLENTY of room for mods and increased airflow.
People who say that 3 mods and stock ECU are sure to blow the engine don't know what they are talking about, they are just repeating what others have told them. If their own engines blew in this manner then somethine else was wrong. Also, getting a Power FC or other programmable computer isn't such a good idea unless you have a dyno and wideband so you can tune it. If you have a wideband and dyno at your disposal, you can test your a/f ratio and find out for yourself that you don't need an ECU.
Now if you want to raise your boost level, you will need a host of other upgrades to do it safely. But that is not the topic of this thread.
The points others have brought up about boost creep is valid, a lot of cars will have boost creep with an open exhaust. Some do, some don't. If you have true boost creep (caused by too much flow and too small of a wastegate) then there is no boost controller or ECU that will cure the problem. It is a mechanical issue that can only be fixed by enlarging the wastegate or adding a restriction back into the exhaust or intake.
Wade
You can't raise the boost safely with the stock ECU. If your boost level is above 10psi for more than a few seconds, the ECU will induce fuel cut to the rear rotor to let you know something is wrong. Hitting fuel cut repeatedly will cause problems.
I don't know why I keep repeating this, but I'll say it again anyway. An FD that doesn't have anything wrong with it will run sufficiently rich even with some mods, as long as the boost is at 10psi or below. I own a wideband and have tested this on a few cars. Stock cars max out my wideband at 10:1, actual a/f is probably richer. There is PLENTY of room for mods and increased airflow.
People who say that 3 mods and stock ECU are sure to blow the engine don't know what they are talking about, they are just repeating what others have told them. If their own engines blew in this manner then somethine else was wrong. Also, getting a Power FC or other programmable computer isn't such a good idea unless you have a dyno and wideband so you can tune it. If you have a wideband and dyno at your disposal, you can test your a/f ratio and find out for yourself that you don't need an ECU.
Now if you want to raise your boost level, you will need a host of other upgrades to do it safely. But that is not the topic of this thread.
The points others have brought up about boost creep is valid, a lot of cars will have boost creep with an open exhaust. Some do, some don't. If you have true boost creep (caused by too much flow and too small of a wastegate) then there is no boost controller or ECU that will cure the problem. It is a mechanical issue that can only be fixed by enlarging the wastegate or adding a restriction back into the exhaust or intake.
Wade
12-18-13, 04:39 PM
#69
Before anything fix your creep issue.
Many years ago wade performed lambda test on the stock ecu and empirically proved that the stock ECU can handle boltons safely as long as one stays at 10 psi. The truth is the stock ECU runs pig rich. I have long lost the link to his site but I did find and old post of his:
Many years ago wade performed lambda test on the stock ecu and empirically proved that the stock ECU can handle boltons safely as long as one stays at 10 psi. The truth is the stock ECU runs pig rich. I have long lost the link to his site but I did find and old post of his:
12-18-13, 05:39 PM
#72
I actually ran for years with all of the boltons, a mild streetport, and a stock ECU but I kept my boost in check at 10 psi, SOLID not 10.9 or anything like that. Too bad I didn't have a wideband at the time. In retrospect, I would have loved to have that data.
12-18-13, 11:31 PM
#74
rotary sensei
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You are NOT listening to the great advice from these guys. Most here didn't just fall off the wagon.
1) Put a cat on the car, now.
2) Take the car out and see what it does.
3) Report back
1) Put a cat on the car, now.
2) Take the car out and see what it does.
3) Report back