Guys im stuck on this one my rx7 was running alright and all of a sudden i shut it off and went to turn it crank it and nothing. Whenever i go to start it, no crank. I know that there are multiple relays for the ignition and starter. I have no clue where to start. When i first got the car it was trashed and im learning as i go on this, so if there is anyway i could get some help i would appreciate it.

 

Is it clicking or anything? A little more details would help

 

yeah let us know what "nothing" means. Is the starter clicking? Do the dash lights come on? Will it crank but doesn't start running...... more info.

 

Possibly your inhibitor switch. There was a service bulletin from Mazda recommending a patch harness between the engine wiring harness and transmission harness. I would recommend running a wire after the starter cut relay in the driver's kick panel straight to the starter. You will have to be careful because this bypasses the inhibitor switch completely and you will then be able to start in any gear.

It could also be your ignition switch on the back of your key cylinder. Sometimes they come loose and only need to be tightened down. There are three screws you need to remove on the bottom of the steering shroud to pull it down, then twist the key light to disconnect the lower shroud. Lift the upper shroud straight up and you should be able to see a white cylinder with a screw or two that you need to tighten.

In addition to all of that it could be the alarm. Sometimes CPU#2 in the driver's kick panel goes bad and trips the starter cut relay. It isn't very likely this is the cause, however it is possible.

 

i'll add neutral safety switch to the list of possible culprits.


"A misadjusted or bad neutral safety switch can keep the engine from cranking. If the vehicle does not start, you should check the action of the neutral safety switch by moving the shift lever into various positions while trying to start the vehicle. If the starter begins to work, the switch needs to be readjusted.

To readjust a neutral safety switch, loosen the fasteners that hold the switch. With the switch loosened, place the shift lever into park (P). Then, while holding the ignition switch in the START position, slide the neutral switch on its mount until the engine cranks. Without moving the switch, tighten the fasteners. The engine should now start with the shift lever in park or neutral.

Check for proper operation after the adjustment"

 

bump ^ im just now getting around to it today. the car doesnt have a click nor does it try to crank over and when i turn the key to acc then to crank it the apexi power fc flashes but thats about it im gonna try to get it running today and ill let you guys know how it goes.

 

I have answered alot of threads related to problems with the starting system on these cars. The FAQ has a link to the wiring diagrams. you should download it. it will show you exactly where to look and what to check regarding any electrical gremlins. see below. check everything I have highlighted in red.

 

As the OP stated in the title, 94 AUTOMATIC. no inhibitor switch.

 

What do you mean flashes? like turns on and then off real quick. if so, this means your batteries dead, or not grounded well. get a DMM and check your battery voltage if its about 10v check continuity between the negative terminal of your battery and the alternator. shouldnt be more than a few ohms.

Sorry about the multiple posts, reread the thread to double check the symptoms and found this.

 

I had this problem with my car when it was auto and it turns out that the little male/female wire that goes to the starter was disconnected. It's under the intake elbow, pretty deep down but if you look in that area you can check to see if anything is disconnected. There is a harness down there that is next to the oil pressure sensor where the wire comes off of and goes to the starter.

 

I've covered a similar issue in my car several times over the years when owners have this pop up. As we all know, there are a host of ignition switch problems that a lot of forum members have posted on also.

The easiest place to start checking things out is to simply turn the ignition switch to the on position and then jump from the battery to the 'S' terminal of the starter. If the car starts, you can pretty well believe the problem is one of the many that has been covered here (a search will find scads of info on this problem) regarding the ignition switch.
I gave up fixing mine and simply ran a remote starter switch (serves as an excellent anti-theft device too!) that is hidden. Some day I will replace the ignition switch as I know that is where my problem lies....but for now I kind of like how I have mine set up.

 

I knew it was automatic. It all depends on which service manual you're looking in. The 93 manual, which is what I am familiar with, calls it the inhibitor switch. In the 94+ manuals it is the Park/Neutral switch.

 

ahhhh my apologies Oblique they call the clutch switch the Inhibitor switch on the 94-95 Manual Tranny Wiring diagrams. Stupid Mazda haha

 

yeah that is weird.... I've never noticed it was labeled "inhibitor switch" and i've been over that diagram a few hundred times when i was working my ignition problems around.

 

well guys i feel retarded... the problem was the ground from the block to the body. it was running really hot. From here im gonna make multiple grounds from the block. also, im getting ready to pull the engine and street port it. any ideas of upgrades or suggestions? also im looking to put replace the apex seals and coolant seals. This is also gonna be something new for me so if you have any tips that would be great. and oh one last thing does anyone have a manual transmission for sale or the clutch pedals or any of the essential parts for a manual tranny?

 

manual trannys are alot harder to find than autos. good luck. your best bet would be to check the classifieds for a part out thread. with regards to the grounds, just make sure you use a good quality ground kit. alot of stores have them, rx7store used to have them, but i dont think they do anymore. i know of some people that have used 2 and 4 gauge cable from car audio shops and just put ring terminals on them, but I would be worried about the heat, especially on the motor grounds.

EDIT: while you have the motor out, it would be a good time to redo your vac hoses, and if you don't have emissions where you live, block off some of the useless crap.