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'93 FD OEM Shifter Rebuild

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Old Feb 21, 2016 | 07:09 AM
  #26  
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Magnet?
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Old Feb 21, 2016 | 03:34 PM
  #27  
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Which parts go inside the stock transmission housing/turret/whatever? Sorry to be thick, but reading the walkthrough I'm not sure I followed the process for what was changed in there.

I ordered the boots and a new shift lever (with new bushings, etc, already installed on it) from Mazda when I took out my short shifter. But I never changed anything in the transmission and (as a result?) I've still got some slop.
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Old Feb 21, 2016 | 08:26 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by msilvia
Which parts go inside the stock transmission housing/turret/whatever? Sorry to be thick, but reading the walkthrough I'm not sure I followed the process for what was changed in there.

I ordered the boots and a new shift lever (with new bushings, etc, already installed on it) from Mazda when I took out my short shifter. But I never changed anything in the transmission and (as a result?) I've still got some slop.
The bottom-most part is the round bushing (pn 0398-17-462A) that hugs the lever bottom tip. Have you changed that one?
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Old Feb 21, 2016 | 09:03 PM
  #29  
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Does someone make a bronze shifter bushing? I know a couple companies did so for miatas and they feel tighter then the plastic oem bushing. Wonder if someone can start a group buy who has the equipment to make them.
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Old Feb 22, 2016 | 04:12 AM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by msilvia
Which parts go inside the stock transmission housing/turret/whatever?...
These are the parts that are typically responsible for excessive "slop" in the shifter. Anything else will likely be internal to the transmission...
81-95 Rx7 Shifter Bushing Kit (ARE80)
Originally Posted by Rocketeerbandit
Does someone make a bronze shifter bushing? ...
Don't know about bronze, but there are aluminum versions. Regardless of what the ad says, it's hard to imagine they remove "slop". And metal will wear too if not greased properly. Seems like they'd just be less likely to break with repeated hard shifting...
93-95 Rx7 Competition Aluminum Shifter Bushing...

Last edited by Sgtblue; Feb 22, 2016 at 04:17 AM.
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Old Feb 25, 2016 | 07:40 PM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by cr-rex
no need to do that. just fish around and youll find it. if you need to take it off though, reseal it with black rtv. that area is super shallow. there isnt much of a place for it to hide
it was b*tch, both pieces hiding in the only place their is to hide -- directly under the shifter seat. had to stick the shifter back in and move into 2nd, then to 1st, to finally move pieces away but i got them out!
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Old Feb 26, 2016 | 02:26 AM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by 00SPEC
it was b*tch, both pieces hiding in the only place their is to hide -- directly under the shifter seat. had to stick the shifter back in and move into 2nd, then to 1st, to finally move pieces away but i got them out!
Nothing about these cars is easy

Originally Posted by Rocketeerbandit
Does someone make a bronze shifter bushing?
RE-A makes one and I'm 10 miles away but can't get there
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Old Mar 17, 2016 | 02:18 AM
  #33  
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Did this on the original 48k mile bushings and it feels 100x better, my groove bushing was practically disintegrated and I had to chisel it out.













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Old Jun 27, 2017 | 01:43 PM
  #34  
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OEM vs Pettit Bushing

Hello gentleman , I'm reviving this thread because while doing this little project I notice something that I need an explination

I bought Petit rebuild kit & the OEM one to compare
The problem is on the OEM part #R503-17-481

As you can see in the picture (OEM on left / Petit on Right)
The upper bushing has a way bigger groove that the one the right.
Which makes me believe that it's not holding the shifter tight like the Pettit one.

Another difference is that the OEM one is made of plastic compared to polyurethane.

Also the Pettit one uses the same top and bottom spring washer and bushing. , not sure if it male a difference or not,
but on the OEM there is defintltly a size difference (the top one is ticker).

I think I will go with the Pettit over OEM on this maintenance task.
Attached Thumbnails '93 FD OEM Shifter Rebuild-img_1286.jpg  
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Old Jun 27, 2017 | 08:03 PM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by 7krayziboi
Hello gentleman , I'm reviving this thread because while doing this little project I notice something that I need an explination

I bought Petit rebuild kit & the OEM one to compare
The problem is on the OEM part #R503-17-481

As you can see in the picture (OEM on left / Petit on Right)
The upper bushing has a way bigger groove that the one the right.
Which makes me believe that it's not holding the shifter tight like the Pettit one.

Another difference is that the OEM one is made of plastic compared to polyurethane.

Also the Pettit one uses the same top and bottom spring washer and bushing. , not sure if it male a difference or not,
but on the OEM there is defintltly a size difference (the top one is ticker).

I think I will go with the Pettit over OEM on this maintenance task.
Okay, so I did this last year on another FD, and at the time I ordered the parts from Mazdatrix. The upper bushing is blue, the lower bushing is white, and they both have a semi-circular hole in them.

The bushings you have on the left there don't seem to be the right set to me. The one on the right seems to be taller than the ones on the left, so perhaps they are designed to be used without the spring washer that comes on the OEM ones?
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Old Mar 11, 2020 | 07:54 AM
  #36  
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Dumb question, do I still need the paper gasket?
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Old Mar 11, 2020 | 08:26 AM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by Billy7
Dumb question, do I still need the paper gasket?
Yes. If you're in there, might as well plus seals it well
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Old Mar 11, 2020 | 08:50 AM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by RikTT
Yes. If you're in there, might as well plus seals it well
Thanks, now do I have to drain any transmission fluid from the top before I pour 4oz transmission fluid or is that not needed?
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Old Mar 11, 2020 | 09:03 AM
  #39  
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I think the paper gasket typically comes stuck to the bottom of the inner shift boot (the one that bolts on with 3 bolts to the trans). You don't have to buy it separately.

Dale
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Old Mar 11, 2020 | 09:06 AM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by Billy7
Thanks, now do I have to drain any transmission fluid from the top before I pour 4oz transmission fluid or is that not needed?
You can't really drain it per se, you can suck it out with a turkey baster type apparatus or something. It can be hard to get in there to get the old stuff out. Really as long as there's a decent amount of fluid in there you're OK.

Dale
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Old Mar 11, 2020 | 09:08 AM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by DaleClark
I think the paper gasket typically comes stuck to the bottom of the inner shift boot (the one that bolts on with 3 bolts to the trans). You don't have to buy it separately.

Dale
I'm verifying with Ray Crowe now that I'm ordering the parts.

Originally Posted by DaleClark
You can't really drain it per se, you can suck it out with a turkey baster type apparatus or something. It can be hard to get in there to get the old stuff out. Really as long as there's a decent amount of fluid in there you're OK.

Dale
Right that's what I meant. Thanks again for the quick response!
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Old Mar 11, 2020 | 09:23 AM
  #42  
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I looked back in the pictures in this thread and you can see the gasket stuck to the bottom of that boot. I'm 99% sure you are good on that.

Also, I think I mentioned elsewhere in the thread that there is a Miata version of the inner 3-bolt shift boot that is bolt-in and like 1/3rd the price of the FD part. Works perfectly.

Dale
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Old Mar 11, 2020 | 09:48 AM
  #43  
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From: https://www2.mazda.com/en/100th/
Originally Posted by DaleClark
I looked back in the pictures in this thread and you can see the gasket stuck to the bottom of that boot. I'm 99% sure you are good on that.

Also, I think I mentioned elsewhere in the thread that there is a Miata version of the inner 3-bolt shift boot that is bolt-in and like 1/3rd the price of the FD part. Works perfectly.

Dale
R501-17-47Z is the NC Miata number its cheap, and it works, Gasket is included
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Old Mar 11, 2020 | 09:59 AM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by Billy7
Thanks, now do I have to drain any transmission fluid from the top before I pour 4oz transmission fluid or is that not needed?
It’s a relatively low temp, low load environment in the shifter reservoir. Can’t imagine that gear oil would really ever need changing. I think the only time I’ve drained mine is while the transmission was dropped. Way less risk. Just be sure to grease per the FSM before re-submersing the shifter assembly.

Last edited by Sgtblue; Mar 11, 2020 at 10:12 AM.
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Old Mar 11, 2020 | 10:03 AM
  #45  
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Originally Posted by j9fd3s
R501-17-47Z is the NC Miata number its cheap, and it works, Gasket is included
The paper gasket is about $2.50 so I'm buying it just in case. Here is my list so far:
  • 1x Top "cup" bushing $4.30
  • 1x Bottom "cup" bushing $4.78
  • 2x Wave washers (springs) $5.77 ea
  • 1x Slot bushing $7.95
  • 1x Small bushing at bottom of shift lever into the cup on the shift rod $5.27
  • 1x Big outer shift boot $53.29
  • 3x Trans boot bolts $1.08 ea (m6 x 12)
  • 4x Tunnel boot nuts $1.84 ea (8mm X 1.25)
  • 1x Miata inner shift boot that bolts to the trans. Part number R501-17-47Z (miata) $13.09
  • 1x Paper Gasket (price) $2.48
  • 1x Insulation that sits on top of the outer boot (price) $2.32
Anything else I'm missing?
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Old Mar 11, 2020 | 10:12 AM
  #46  
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As Dale mention , the gasket is included, I confirm.
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Old Mar 11, 2020 | 10:13 AM
  #47  
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I have a kit with the most commonly needed parts to rebuild the stock shifter if someone doesn't want to deal with piecing it all together. I can get the boots as well if needed. https://www.irperformance.com/produc...g-rebuild-kit/
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Old Mar 11, 2020 | 11:13 AM
  #48  
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Originally Posted by Billy7
The paper gasket is about $2.50 so I'm buying it just in case. Here is my list so far:
  • 1x Top "cup" bushing $4.30
  • 1x Bottom "cup" bushing $4.78
  • 2x Wave washers (springs) $5.77 ea
  • 1x Slot bushing $7.95
  • 1x Small bushing at bottom of shift lever into the cup on the shift rod $5.27
  • 1x Big outer shift boot $53.29
  • 3x Trans boot bolts $1.08 ea (m6 x 12)
  • 4x Tunnel boot nuts $1.84 ea (8mm X 1.25)
  • 1x Miata inner shift boot that bolts to the trans. Part number R501-17-47Z (miata) $13.09
  • 1x Paper Gasket (price) $2.48
  • 1x Insulation that sits on top of the outer boot (price) $2.32
Anything else I'm missing?
That's super complete. I don't know if you need the bolts/nuts but there you go.

Good fresh shifter bushings feel SO GOOD.

Dale
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Old Mar 12, 2020 | 10:24 AM
  #49  
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Originally Posted by Billy7
Thanks, now do I have to drain any transmission fluid from the top before I pour 4oz transmission fluid or is that not needed?
I used a syringe with some thin tubing to suck up some of the worn out fluid. I measured what came out and poured that back in with fresh set.
Your list looks complete. Just have some rags handy when you remove old one to not drop fluid

(OT - I think you know my Supra bothers out your way. Dave & Chris Black/Red MK4's. I'm in Queens)
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Old Mar 12, 2020 | 10:31 AM
  #50  
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Originally Posted by RikTT
I used a syringe with some thin tubing to suck up some of the worn out fluid. I measured what came out and poured that back in with fresh set.
Your list looks complete. Just have some rags handy when you remove old one to not drop fluid

(OT - I think you know my Supra bothers out your way. Dave & Chris Black/Red MK4's. I'm in Queens)
Thank you, I just found out the transmission fluid is separate from the shifter fluid so I will be replacing that now. I think I've gotten a grasp of the whole picture on how to do this. Thanks again everyone for the help!

And I don't really know any MK4 Supra owners...

Last edited by Billy7; Mar 12, 2020 at 11:41 AM.
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