This morning I gathered the parts to rebuild the shifter top to bottom.

20140930_074513 by rocketeerbandit, on Flickr


I started by removing the Center Console Bezel and un-clipping the connectors to the fog lights, defroster, bulb to the ashtray etc.

There are 4 10 mm bolts for the upper dust boot.




20140930_071956 by rocketeerbandit, on Flickr



One of the reason why I am rebuilding the shifter is because I know how 21 years is on rubber. Especially brittle mazdas' shifts boots from my previous ownership of a 99 miata. They are very similar in design and parts. So this rebuild is very familiar to me.


20140930_072301 by rocketeerbandit, on Flickr


After removing the upper boot, you can see the lower boot torn as well being held in place with 3 10mm bolts.


20140930_072405 by rocketeerbandit, on Flickr


In the file folder of receipts that I inherited with the purchase of my rx7 last month from the one owner who saved everything, I saw that the bushings were replaced a while back but still wanted to do the job myself to have that security of knowing it is new and done in my ownership of the vehicle.

20140930_072944 by rocketeerbandit, on Flickr


The Paper Gasket that is married to the lower dust boot from factory is now stuck on the turret. I had to scrape it off carefully



20140930_073058 by rocketeerbandit, on Flickr


Down in the turret you can see a bushing and underneath that is a spring washer. To get this out I need to use a hammer and a socket extension that fit perfectly to nudge that pin back.

replace the broken spring washer on the bottom of the lip first then the bushing. The cutout of the bushing should be facing where the pin will be reinserted. I used a crowbar to push the pin back in. This was the only part that I felt need attention.


20140930_073811 by rocketeerbandit, on Flickr


When I removed the bushing the flex washer was broken so be careful not letting the fragmented parts fall in the turret. This is what I pulled out


20140930_074159 by rocketeerbandit, on Flickr


I reassembled the shifter with new parts and very mildly lubed the shifter to slide the lower dust boot over. Prior to doing so make sure the new bushing and clamp flexed washer is connected. You can see indention on the bushing where the washer clamps over. Be gently not to bend the clamps. The was faces up.

I put 4oz. of transmission fluid in the turret.

20140930_080925 by rocketeerbandit, on Flickr


Now we need to make sure the bushing that we inserted on the side of the shifter ball is facing that Pin we talked about earlier. I used a rubber mallet to tap the shifter back in place with the bottom bushing inserting into the turret. Again, gentle.


I slipped the upper boot over the shifter with some lube so it was easy to slide over and tightend the nuts done in a star formation.

20140930_082529 by rocketeerbandit, on Flickr


The top boot I received goes over the shifter and has a lip to go over the dust boot/middle boot and fits perfect


20140930_082657 by rocketeerbandit, on Flickr


Place the new heat shield over the shifter like so and reassemble the connectors to the center console and were done.

 

20140930_082749 by rocketeerbandit, on Flickr

 

Very nice! Most every FD I've worked on has needed some love here. It's amazing how good the shifter feels with new bushings and boots!

You don't have to push the locator pin back to do the job, the bushing can slip in under it. Just angle it down towards the front of the car and slip it in under that pin. Moving that pin too many times could cause the press fit to get loose.

IMHO, a stock shifter with good bushings and a weighted shift **** is the best shift setup for the FD. I've driven a number with short shifters and IMHO they're terrible. So many people think the stock setup is bad so they put in a short shifter, when it's just needing maintenance.

Great job!
Dale

 

I appreciate it dale. Btw thank you for the check valves.

Referring back to you on the pin being pushed back, if I would have wedge out the plastic bushing, I might have unknowingly drop a piece of the metal washer in the turret. That would have been a headache. I can see how performing the way you mentioned could make it easier if the flex spring washer wasn't broken.

I can't wait to make the car better with its next maintenance write up.

 

great post and writeup! Given that MS/Cs shifters are so rare, I may be sticking with stock..

do short shifters share any of these parts? or will they have all their own boots/bushings etc?

 

sunil517@hotmail.com

 

Where did you get all that rebuild stuff?

My shifter is silly sloppy and I can guarantee this will help!

 

Great write-up. For others doing this here's a parts picture that was on the forum a while back (not mine, but I saved it). It helped me get the right parts.

 

Great thanks!!

 

Hmm... Have I missed something...I didn't know there was insulation around the shifter...mine and any other FD Ive seen doesn't have it...

 

Yes, and they're cheap. The same part has been used on previous generations as well, PN: FB01-64-495.

 

I know the C's short shifter shares the majority of the pieces. It shouldn't be too hard to rebuild. I bought one with a torn dust boot for $70 a month ago so I'll find out when I get around to it (but that may be a while lol).

 

You bought a C's short shifter for $70?

 

Looks like I'm gonna have to call Ray...

 

How did you get this boot off/on??

 

Doesn't take much.

 

You slide it off from the top, I would just cut the old one off if its torn.
The new one just slides in from the top of the shifter.

 

@sephek, exactly what I did

 

In case anyone wants to be lazy and order the parts in one shot, Pettit sells this as a "shifter rebuild kit". I just did mine, totally worthwhile for not much money.

 

Just did the same thing on my CYM, and would you believe not only were pieces destroyed but the lower blue washer and spring washer weren't even there..... Never assume the previous owners did things the right way

 

Car I've been working on had NO slot bushing or bottom small cup bushing AT ALL. They were totally ground into dust. That is not too uncommon, BTW. With that much slop it's like each gear is a different zip code.

The small boot that bolts onto the trans (the one that bolts on with 3 10mm bolts) is STUPID expensive for what it is - like $45. Many Miata guys use the boot for the later Miata, part number R501-17-47Z. It's like $12. I see no reason why it wouldn't work perfectly on an FD.

Also, good idea to put talcum powder on the rubber parts of the boots, it keeps them from rubbing against themselves and wearing out faster.

Dale

 

Thanks for going to the trouble. This thread will help a lot of guys out. I did it a couple years ago. Not sure about the transmission fluid in the shifter reservoir though unless you meant 75w-90 gear oil. And I also recommend greasing the ball and lower bushing per FSM.

 

I want to confirm, that I bought last week the Miata boot #R501-17-47Z and it fits PERFECTLY.
There is a slight difference in the shape base, but no modification is needed.
The FD boot base is round and the Miata one is round with a square area.
All 3 holes match perfectly.
In my shifter rebuild, I found one of the wave washers missing, now all is tight as a tiger.

Thanks Dale, you save me few dollars.

 

soooo while installing my MS shifter (quite stupidly) I botched the job by dropping my broken stock wave washer in the shifter turret. It is invisible underneath all of the gear oil.

all I can think of now is MityVac out the oil, remove the top of the turret (4 bolts) and fish around?

Any other suggestions? feel so stupid!!

 

no need to do that. just fish around and youll find it. if you need to take it off though, reseal it with black rtv. that area is super shallow. there isnt much of a place for it to hide