93 BB Base Half-Bridge GT42R Project PART 2
#38
OK, well heres the lowdown.....
When we first bolted my car up to the dyno. Steve Kan plugged his datalogit into my PFC and noticed that my air temp sensor wasn't working. I relocated it to the greddy elbow a long time ago so when we unplugged the plastic connector we noticed that one of the two wires had pulled out of the plug. So we were basically screwed because no one was going to let us cut their harness to borrow their plug. My dad tried to cut some of the plastic away around the plastic plug but the plug was screwed. Steve Kan popped the metal prongs out of the plastic connector and then my dad solderd them back on the best that he could. We wrapped them in electric tape and shoved them back in the F'ed up plastic connector plug. After plugging it back in the sensor Steve checked the laptop and noticed that it still wasn't reading...... . We pushed the wire up into the plug even further and then it worked.
I run 2 35mm tial wastegates with 10 psi springs in them. During the summer this works fine but over the winter my car will creep to 20psi with the boost controller off. So Steve would do a pull and my wastegates would open up at 10psi and then my boost will creep up to 20psi which is too much on 93 octane alone. So Steve used my methanol injection to tune my car at 20psi on pump 93 octane gas. I ended up making 501whp. Then we poured in the C16 in my gas tank and Steve did a pull not changing anything to see how much power I would lose on race gas. I made 480whp at 20psi on C16 with no methanol.
Then we cranked the boost up to 24psi and after a few pulls managed to put down 562whp. We were going to raise the boost even higher but my oil pressure was not where it should be. Steve didnt want to make any more pulls because he said I could spin a bearing. My oil pressure at idle was 40psi and my oil temps were only ~170 F. While reving in neutral my oil pressure would go up to 100psi but under boost it would only go up to 60psi. Steve said I need to step up to 20w50 and see if it corrects the problem. Because of this oil issue he couldn't have taken my car any higher. He wanted to hit 26psi and he said that I should have been around 580-590 whp! I will shoot for that next time he comes back to STL, MO. But, he said if the heavier oil weight doesn't fix my oil pressure problem then my motor was rebuilt with crap parts. He said I would have to have my bearings replaced and that would require tearing down the motor.... My motor only has about 3000 miles on it and if this is the case then that is total CRAP. I won't know if the heavier oil fixes the problem until next week because I have to fly back to FL tomorrow for another week of class before spring break starts next week. Also it was raining all day today so I couldn't rip on it. We changed the oil right after the tune though to 20w50 so I HOPE that is the problem and not that my motor was built with crap bearings.
Anyway I am happy with my pump gas numbers. 500whp on 93octane gas is insane..... I will post the video and dyno sheets in the next couple of days....
When we first bolted my car up to the dyno. Steve Kan plugged his datalogit into my PFC and noticed that my air temp sensor wasn't working. I relocated it to the greddy elbow a long time ago so when we unplugged the plastic connector we noticed that one of the two wires had pulled out of the plug. So we were basically screwed because no one was going to let us cut their harness to borrow their plug. My dad tried to cut some of the plastic away around the plastic plug but the plug was screwed. Steve Kan popped the metal prongs out of the plastic connector and then my dad solderd them back on the best that he could. We wrapped them in electric tape and shoved them back in the F'ed up plastic connector plug. After plugging it back in the sensor Steve checked the laptop and noticed that it still wasn't reading...... . We pushed the wire up into the plug even further and then it worked.
I run 2 35mm tial wastegates with 10 psi springs in them. During the summer this works fine but over the winter my car will creep to 20psi with the boost controller off. So Steve would do a pull and my wastegates would open up at 10psi and then my boost will creep up to 20psi which is too much on 93 octane alone. So Steve used my methanol injection to tune my car at 20psi on pump 93 octane gas. I ended up making 501whp. Then we poured in the C16 in my gas tank and Steve did a pull not changing anything to see how much power I would lose on race gas. I made 480whp at 20psi on C16 with no methanol.
Then we cranked the boost up to 24psi and after a few pulls managed to put down 562whp. We were going to raise the boost even higher but my oil pressure was not where it should be. Steve didnt want to make any more pulls because he said I could spin a bearing. My oil pressure at idle was 40psi and my oil temps were only ~170 F. While reving in neutral my oil pressure would go up to 100psi but under boost it would only go up to 60psi. Steve said I need to step up to 20w50 and see if it corrects the problem. Because of this oil issue he couldn't have taken my car any higher. He wanted to hit 26psi and he said that I should have been around 580-590 whp! I will shoot for that next time he comes back to STL, MO. But, he said if the heavier oil weight doesn't fix my oil pressure problem then my motor was rebuilt with crap parts. He said I would have to have my bearings replaced and that would require tearing down the motor.... My motor only has about 3000 miles on it and if this is the case then that is total CRAP. I won't know if the heavier oil fixes the problem until next week because I have to fly back to FL tomorrow for another week of class before spring break starts next week. Also it was raining all day today so I couldn't rip on it. We changed the oil right after the tune though to 20w50 so I HOPE that is the problem and not that my motor was built with crap bearings.
Anyway I am happy with my pump gas numbers. 500whp on 93octane gas is insane..... I will post the video and dyno sheets in the next couple of days....
#39
The one
iTrader: (5)
If the bearings were the problem you would see this issue at low boost and they would have already spun. When bearings are bad it could take about 50 miles for there to be a major issue. Plus your car has seen plenty of dyno time without a problem, so I would guess its something else.
Nice numbers though.
Nice numbers though.
#40
Original Gangster/Rotary!
iTrader: (213)
I agree with Jason. The low oil pressure can/will lead to a spun bearing, but I doubt that's the cause of the low oil pressure.
Who rebuilt the motor? Is this a reman with only 3k miles on it? I'd wonder about the condition of the oil pump and chain, which can be replaced by removing the front cover.
Btw, great numbers man! Your car must be crazy fast at 20 psi.......I hope you can get your wastegate problems solved, that's definitely a bitch to have to work around. Any theories as to why the twin 35s aren't sufficient?
Who rebuilt the motor? Is this a reman with only 3k miles on it? I'd wonder about the condition of the oil pump and chain, which can be replaced by removing the front cover.
Btw, great numbers man! Your car must be crazy fast at 20 psi.......I hope you can get your wastegate problems solved, that's definitely a bitch to have to work around. Any theories as to why the twin 35s aren't sufficient?
#42
Original Gangster/Rotary!
iTrader: (213)
Jason, was this a reman or a rebuild of existing parts? Reason I ask is if it's a reman, the oil pump and chain wouldn't be a culprit.
If the problem persists, probably best to drop the oil pan and check the pickup tube for a blockage, as well as check the valve at the bottom of the rear iron. Then move onto the parts between the front cover.
If the problem persists, probably best to drop the oil pan and check the pickup tube for a blockage, as well as check the valve at the bottom of the rear iron. Then move onto the parts between the front cover.
#45
Originally Posted by ROTARYFDTT
Are you running the "dragon" craddle or a different version, and can it be purchased from anywhere? I've been somewhat trying to locate a craddle version without any luck.
Nice numbers PDviper. I am going throuh the same process of getting my car legal...i still have to get a scatter shield, driveshaft loop,door bars, cutoff switch, foam padding, 5 pt harness, etc...
I have my new turbo getting here tomorrow and with that hooking up my nitrous kit. My previous turbo was a 61.5mm compressor wheel, little baby, so I am stepping up to a extended tip 66mm and be able to push 30 lbs over 600 whp,but with the nitrous, the torque will be awesome and thats what wins the race. I didnt want to go up to your guys 70 mm wheels because i still want some decent response in street boost. Good luck with your oil pressure situation and hope to see what kind of numbers you push out over 30 lbs.
#46
Originally Posted by zayrx7
Let me just say this, I don't build motor's with crap parts.That motor was built with all new bearings.
What should I do about this wastegate problem?
Also does anyone know what the length and width of a 38mm tial is when compared to the old 35mm tial. If they are very similiar I will need to order 2 38mm to replace my 35mm tials because of this major boost creep issue.
#48
We changed the oil and filter last night before the tuning session. When we changed the oil right after the tune, the oil came out very clean with NO metal shavings. So I think I am good. Steve Kan told me to switch from Mobil 1 synthetic to Castrol GTX Durablend 20w50.
Question for Xavier: What kind of oil mods did you do to my engine? Steve Kan was asking me if it had oil jet mods??? and something else. I didn't know. Could you let me know if it does have any oil mods. Also do these #s sound good for this motor?
Thanks,
Phil
Question for Xavier: What kind of oil mods did you do to my engine? Steve Kan was asking me if it had oil jet mods??? and something else. I didn't know. Could you let me know if it does have any oil mods. Also do these #s sound good for this motor?
Thanks,
Phil
#49
Originally Posted by PDViper77
I didn't say you guys did. I am just saying what Steve Kan and Eric Cheatham said. I think the 20w50 oil fixed the problem. There have been other cars there with the SAME problem and they were fixed by using heavy oil. When the car was first on the dyno the oil pressure was fine. When the oil warmed up, thats when the problem occured. I was just a pain in the *** that oil kept me from boosting even higher. I think my numbers are pretty good though.
What should I do about this wastegate problem?
Also does anyone know what the length and width of a 38mm tial is when compared to the old 35mm tial. If they are very similiar I will need to order 2 38mm to replace my 35mm tials because of this major boost creep issue.
What should I do about this wastegate problem?
Also does anyone know what the length and width of a 38mm tial is when compared to the old 35mm tial. If they are very similiar I will need to order 2 38mm to replace my 35mm tials because of this major boost creep issue.
#50
Got Rotors?
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Originally Posted by PDViper77
We changed the oil and filter last night before the tuning session. When we changed the oil right after the tune, the oil came out very clean with NO metal shavings. So I think I am good. Steve Kan told me to switch from Mobil 1 synthetic to Castrol GTX Durablend 20w50.
Question for Xavier: What kind of oil mods did you do to my engine? Steve Kan was asking me if it had oil jet mods??? and something else. I didn't know. Could you let me know if it does have any oil mods. Also do these #s sound good for this motor?
Thanks,
Phil
Question for Xavier: What kind of oil mods did you do to my engine? Steve Kan was asking me if it had oil jet mods??? and something else. I didn't know. Could you let me know if it does have any oil mods. Also do these #s sound good for this motor?
Thanks,
Phil