TwinTriangles

As I posted before Ive been running my 1300's for 2 years with no problems along with many other people, I am in no way worried about them failing at all. I can get a set of 850's for $85, How would buying 1600's + Fuel Rail + Regulator save me money ?

GoodfellaFD3S

iTrader: (213)

same here. have for like 2 years now.

rx7tt95

Exactly. It won't save you any money. Not with people charging $200 for $10 of fuel rail. If you're industrious, buy your own extruded rail, take it to a machine shop, have it drilled, and then tap the ends yourself. An instant 1/2 off!

For those not trying to hit 500rwhp, there's just no point beyond the 550/1300 or 850/1300 combo. To call the 1300's failure prone is simply untrue...I've heard more stories about the cheap 1600's burning out early than the 1300's. It's a fable with no real factual data. Personally, I ran two o-rings on the 850's for some time with no issue. I'm machining another primary fuel manifold I have this time around. I picked up a set of 850's for $45. My 1300's, with 70K miles on them checked out just fine according to RC Engineering.

rx7tt95

Exactly. It won't save you any money. Not with people charging $200 for $10 of fuel rail. If you're industrious, buy your own extruded rail, take it to a machine shop, have it drilled, and then tap the ends yourself. An instant 1/2 off!

For those not trying to hit 500rwhp, there's just no point beyond the 550/1300 or 850/1300 combo. To call the 1300's failure prone is simply untrue...I've heard more stories about the cheap 1600's burning out early than the 1300's. It's a fable with no real factual data. Personally, I ran two o-rings on the 850's for some time with no issue. I'm machining another primary fuel manifold I have this time around. I picked up a set of 850's for $45. My 1300's, with 70K miles on them checked out just fine according to RC Engineering.

RE13REW

Does anyone know 1300(850 ported) need different fuel rail, i mean does it need a bigger fuel rail ? Or the stock one is okey to delivery the fuel.

I m installing 550/1300 in my FD, just want to know do i need to replace the fuel rail since i m installing the FPR.
BTW: How can i install FPR ?? Do i need to flare the fuel line to the FPR ?? or fitting is fine ?

Rayman93RX7

iTrader: (4)

RE13REW ---- why do you want a FPR ? 550 / 1300 is a good combo great for 400 - 450whp

the best way to add a FPR is to get a new primary rail then run braided lines(bunch of pain in the *** stuff) better of just going with stock lines stock regulator, just upgrade the injectors and tune the car. I have a FPR and it's set to basicly stock levels i got one cuz everyone was like "oh you need it!! and oh you need 850s and 1600s !!! " with my setup even at 15psi I never see over 60% duty cycle so basicly I spent too much money on more of a fuel system then I'd ever need. If only I knew what I know now

maxcooper

1300s work with the stock rail, which is part of their appeal.

Note this stuff applies only if you want to run an aftermarket FPR -- you can just run the stock FPR if you want to... You will want to remove the stock FPR from the end of the stock secondary rail to run an aftermarket FPR. You can drill and tap for a pipe-thread fitting or have a fitting welded to the end of the rail to replace the stock FPR. I got a 1/4 NPT 90 degree brass fitting with a 5/16" hose barb to replace my stock FPR. I got the fitting from an online plumbing supply shop (http://plumbingsupply.com/, part #BA-956), as it seems to be difficult to locate the right fitting from local places (hardware store, etc.). Also be sure to use high-pressure fuel injection hose (or SS braided hose) for the pressurized part of your fuel system -- the stock return line hoses may not be high-pressure rated. 5/16" rubber fuel injection (important: "fuel line" is for low pressure, "fuel injection hose" is for high pressure) works perfectly and is widely available (local auto parts store, etc.).

-Max

SlingShotRX7

Rayman, begrateful, that you are only at 60% injector cycle.
why are you complaining???? Would you rather have 1300cc's
and be at 85% cycle???? Most people want 80% or less
for their injector duty.

So currently you get 60% @15psi..

So later when you want more HP you can press up the PSI
and not WORRY about your injectors..

never thought overkill on FUEL delivery on a Rotory was a bad thing.
GO ahead, go the cheap way, and when that day comes when you
max out your injectors.. gonna be another shoulda coulda woulda
all over again.

rx7tt95

I'll post some pictures of my fuel setup (850/1300 with adjustable fpr) in progress so you can see the actual setup. It's off the car now and in pieces so it'll be easy to photograph.

TwinTriangles

Great, thanks rx7tt95 for all the input, im interested to see the primary injector manifold your makind too. 850's & 1300's sounds like the perfect setup for what I'm trying to do.

RE13REW

thx for all your answer. will looking forward for pictures

thx

rx7tt95

Ok here are a few images of the fuel system. The primary rail is over at CLR Motorsports being modified. It's not hard to create a mental picture of what it'll look like modded...just imagine .125" removed from the top where the injectors slide in. Other than that, we have the secondary fuel rail with it's 1/4 NPT to 6AN fitting. Notice the teflon tape on the NPT threads ONLY. No need to use it on AN fittings as they're self sealing. Don't overtighten. The 1/4 NPT to 6AN is connected to a 6AN 150 degree double swivel bend. A 180 degree wont' work. I"m mounting the FPR in front of the manifold, some do it on the back firewall. If that's the case, just use a 90 degree 6AN off the back of the fuel rail.

For the adjustable FPR itself, I bought the new compact Aeromotive unit. It has one 6AN in and one 6AN out port plus a 1/8NPT for a fuel pressure gauge. I have a 90 degree 6AN dual swivel going in and a 6AN 90 degree to barb (slip fit) on the bottom which uses regular fuel line for the return. One could forego all the the swivel fittings and just get slip fit stuff and use regular fuel line to save on cost. All told, there's probably more than $100 worth of just fittings there alone!


For the fuel pump, I have two Walbro pumps hooked together. They both flow into a Y-block and use the stock feed line which I've cut shorter. The return line is intact and kept at stock length. Each pump is wired with 10GA wire, their own relays and their own 25A fuse breakers hooked to the Odyssey battery. The battery sits inside the inner and outer wall of the back bins. Not in the bins themselves. My stereo is also hooked into the battery. I have another Odyssey 600 series lying around so I'm going to put that on the other side.

The wiring for the fuel pumps passes through four holes I drilled in the top fuel plate. O-rings are used on each opening. I then used gas tank epoxy sealer on the top/bottom. Once that cured. I used a big gooey glop of sealant on the top just to make sure it was airtight.

rx7tt95

more pics

rx7tt95

I'll take more images when the engine gets back from CLR Motorsports and I have a chance to hook everything up on the engine itself.

Herblenny

iTrader: (13)

Thank you for the great info and pics. I'm going to start putting my car together this coming weekend.

520hp@26lbsRX-7

I have 850 and 1300 and i think i run a 87% duty cycle with a t-78 dose that sound right

iluvmy3rdgen

Doesn't rx7store.net sell brand new nippodenso 1300's?

Trout2

iTrader: (5)

They sell brand new 850's that have been modified.

I've been running 850/1300 since Sept. '03 and all is good. At that time, RC Engineering only wanted to modify new injectors. He did mine since they only had about 4,000 miles on them.

I started with (4) 850's and was hitting around 82 duty cycle at 327rwhp (0.80-kg/cm2~11.3-psi, ported motor with all bolt-ons and seq. stock turbos).

Jack