500 hp rx-7 question
Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 494
Likes: 0
From: Minden, NV
Originally Posted by socalred
Hi i'm new. I am going to buy a 500 hp 1997 sinlge turbo(turbonetics t-66) rx7.....It was bored and rebuild with race parts apparently. Let me know what u think!
Seriously though, buy the STI, it's a much better car for you.
And BTW, the last run of rx7s mazda produced was 1999-2002.
Senior Member
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 281
Likes: 0
From: Frisco, TX
Looks like they did a nice job on the turbo install and the exterior and interior are very well cared for.
The car does appear to be set up to pass emissions. Still has the airpump and a high-flow. While it might not pass visual in CA, you've got a chance of getting by the actual exhaust analysis test. However, I'd definitely get more info from the seller on this. Did he pass last time?
Using the AEM computer is a little troublesome. You won't find much support from people on this forum, so be prepared to take it to the shop for any problems that come up.
You'll find that most people on here are paranoid about the effects of overheating on the car. If it was shut down immediately after the light came on, odds are that the engine is probably fine. I cracked a radiator on my single turbo about 10K miles ago and had the overheat light come on. I haven't had any further problems. You can check for cooling seal problems by looking for small champagne-like bubbles in the upper coolant cap on the passenger side of the engine near the airpump. Take it off when cool and start the car up. You'll get some overflow at the car heats up, and if any small bubbles are present, you might have coolant seal failure, which means rebuild in your future. Also, if the car's coolant overflow tank spits out coolant when the car cools down, this is another sign of coolant seal failure.
Rotary engines can't be bored like pistons engines, so the displacement remains the same. However, intake and exhaust ports are "ported" to increase engine airflow. If that car is passing emissions, it likely has a mild port job. If the owner used the term "bored", he doesn't really understand the car, and you might want to be a little cautious about buying from him.
The T66 is a ball-bearing turbo, which can be very expensive to repair/replace.
You won't be able to take this car to the dealer for anything but the most basic repairs, unlike an STi. You better have a repair budget as this is a 10 year old car putting out more than twice the power it came with. At 500 horsepower, things WILL be breaking. If you are stretching your budget to come up with 25K, I'd get the STi. Also, you might have a problem getting a bank loan for the amount you need to purchase the RX-7, as the book value is going to be far less than what he is asking. I'd also recommend that you buy an Sti or get a less expensive stock FD and do your own mods.
The car does appear to be set up to pass emissions. Still has the airpump and a high-flow. While it might not pass visual in CA, you've got a chance of getting by the actual exhaust analysis test. However, I'd definitely get more info from the seller on this. Did he pass last time?
Using the AEM computer is a little troublesome. You won't find much support from people on this forum, so be prepared to take it to the shop for any problems that come up.
You'll find that most people on here are paranoid about the effects of overheating on the car. If it was shut down immediately after the light came on, odds are that the engine is probably fine. I cracked a radiator on my single turbo about 10K miles ago and had the overheat light come on. I haven't had any further problems. You can check for cooling seal problems by looking for small champagne-like bubbles in the upper coolant cap on the passenger side of the engine near the airpump. Take it off when cool and start the car up. You'll get some overflow at the car heats up, and if any small bubbles are present, you might have coolant seal failure, which means rebuild in your future. Also, if the car's coolant overflow tank spits out coolant when the car cools down, this is another sign of coolant seal failure.
Rotary engines can't be bored like pistons engines, so the displacement remains the same. However, intake and exhaust ports are "ported" to increase engine airflow. If that car is passing emissions, it likely has a mild port job. If the owner used the term "bored", he doesn't really understand the car, and you might want to be a little cautious about buying from him.
The T66 is a ball-bearing turbo, which can be very expensive to repair/replace.
You won't be able to take this car to the dealer for anything but the most basic repairs, unlike an STi. You better have a repair budget as this is a 10 year old car putting out more than twice the power it came with. At 500 horsepower, things WILL be breaking. If you are stretching your budget to come up with 25K, I'd get the STi. Also, you might have a problem getting a bank loan for the amount you need to purchase the RX-7, as the book value is going to be far less than what he is asking. I'd also recommend that you buy an Sti or get a less expensive stock FD and do your own mods.
Rotary Freak
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 1,742
Likes: 0
From: Houston
I don't see any differential upgrade. Trying to drag that car, or beating on it from a stop will result in a fragged diff, sooner or later. With that much HP, it needs a better diff unless you treat it gently.
omgwtfposlol
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 862
Likes: 0
From: Orange City, FL
looks like a pretty clean car. little expensive but if he is the original owner and it's never been wrecked, and is documented it might not be such a bad deal.
the stock diff wont hold a drag tire launch, but it you just run around with 400whp and keep the diff in mind the car should be fine. i'd still recommend the STi as i have one along with my FD though. the STi is just all around a more usable car.
the stock diff wont hold a drag tire launch, but it you just run around with 400whp and keep the diff in mind the car should be fine. i'd still recommend the STi as i have one along with my FD though. the STi is just all around a more usable car.
Hey, where did my $$$ go?
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 4,413
Likes: 0
From: Bimingham, AL
500HP is only around 425RWhp, is he talking engine or wheel horsepower? Ask him for some dyno sheets. How much boost is it running daily? How much boost was it running when it supposedly made 500HP (which btw is a perfectly nice even number, little odd for a dyno haha). What computer is in the car? Who tuned the car? Will the warrenty for the new engine transfer to the new owner....I would call the engine builder to find that out instead of just asking the seller.
Stephen
Stephen
Thread Starter
Newbie
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 4
Likes: 0
From: so cal
Thank you for the response. I have considered the loan issue and the guy said it passes smog. All work was done by tri-point as I've said and this guy is a car nut. He knows what he's talking about and really knows how to drive that car. I will probably take your advice and wait to get the sti. Again thank you for the reply I was looking for.
Originally Posted by phlanigan
Looks like they did a nice job on the turbo install and the exterior and interior are very well cared for.
The car does appear to be set up to pass emissions. Still has the airpump and a high-flow. While it might not pass visual in CA, you've got a chance of getting by the actual exhaust analysis test. However, I'd definitely get more info from the seller on this. Did he pass last time?
Using the AEM computer is a little troublesome. You won't find much support from people on this forum, so be prepared to take it to the shop for any problems that come up.
You'll find that most people on here are paranoid about the effects of overheating on the car. If it was shut down immediately after the light came on, odds are that the engine is probably fine. I cracked a radiator on my single turbo about 10K miles ago and had the overheat light come on. I haven't had any further problems. You can check for cooling seal problems by looking for small champagne-like bubbles in the upper coolant cap on the passenger side of the engine near the airpump. Take it off when cool and start the car up. You'll get some overflow at the car heats up, and if any small bubbles are present, you might have coolant seal failure, which means rebuild in your future. Also, if the car's coolant overflow tank spits out coolant when the car cools down, this is another sign of coolant seal failure.
Rotary engines can't be bored like pistons engines, so the displacement remains the same. However, intake and exhaust ports are "ported" to increase engine airflow. If that car is passing emissions, it likely has a mild port job. If the owner used the term "bored", he doesn't really understand the car, and you might want to be a little cautious about buying from him.
The T66 is a ball-bearing turbo, which can be very expensive to repair/replace.
You won't be able to take this car to the dealer for anything but the most basic repairs, unlike an STi. You better have a repair budget as this is a 10 year old car putting out more than twice the power it came with. At 500 horsepower, things WILL be breaking. If you are stretching your budget to come up with 25K, I'd get the STi. Also, you might have a problem getting a bank loan for the amount you need to purchase the RX-7, as the book value is going to be far less than what he is asking. I'd also recommend that you buy an Sti or get a less expensive stock FD and do your own mods.
The car does appear to be set up to pass emissions. Still has the airpump and a high-flow. While it might not pass visual in CA, you've got a chance of getting by the actual exhaust analysis test. However, I'd definitely get more info from the seller on this. Did he pass last time?
Using the AEM computer is a little troublesome. You won't find much support from people on this forum, so be prepared to take it to the shop for any problems that come up.
You'll find that most people on here are paranoid about the effects of overheating on the car. If it was shut down immediately after the light came on, odds are that the engine is probably fine. I cracked a radiator on my single turbo about 10K miles ago and had the overheat light come on. I haven't had any further problems. You can check for cooling seal problems by looking for small champagne-like bubbles in the upper coolant cap on the passenger side of the engine near the airpump. Take it off when cool and start the car up. You'll get some overflow at the car heats up, and if any small bubbles are present, you might have coolant seal failure, which means rebuild in your future. Also, if the car's coolant overflow tank spits out coolant when the car cools down, this is another sign of coolant seal failure.
Rotary engines can't be bored like pistons engines, so the displacement remains the same. However, intake and exhaust ports are "ported" to increase engine airflow. If that car is passing emissions, it likely has a mild port job. If the owner used the term "bored", he doesn't really understand the car, and you might want to be a little cautious about buying from him.
The T66 is a ball-bearing turbo, which can be very expensive to repair/replace.
You won't be able to take this car to the dealer for anything but the most basic repairs, unlike an STi. You better have a repair budget as this is a 10 year old car putting out more than twice the power it came with. At 500 horsepower, things WILL be breaking. If you are stretching your budget to come up with 25K, I'd get the STi. Also, you might have a problem getting a bank loan for the amount you need to purchase the RX-7, as the book value is going to be far less than what he is asking. I'd also recommend that you buy an Sti or get a less expensive stock FD and do your own mods.
