It would be best to vary the revs as you drive along a little. Run a little slower in 4th up to 4000 rpm, speed up and drop it in 5th, etc. You could also pull off at a few exits and drive around at city speeds a bit.

In any case, my new motor was seeing WOT to redline by 1000 miles (new housings and 3mm seals). This is per my builder's recommendation.

 

Kevin do you know of anyone that supplies small springs for 3mm seals? I know Mazda only offered 1 big spring but wouldn't 2 springs be more beneficial to keep the seal from warping over the long run? That's one thing about the 1st gens I didn't like. My 12A seals came out slightly warped. One spring puts more pressure against the apex seals at the corners. This in turn puts more pressure on the housing corners which is probably why the 1st gen engines rotor housings wore so bad on the edges.

 

You guys need to understand that a perfect tune cant prevent everything. A perfect tune isn't going to do squat if you have fuel system problems when tuned to the ragged edge.

 

You cannot tell whether a motor has 2mm or 3mm seals by starting it, listening to it, driving it, or compression testing it. They run the same, they break in the same.

As for breakin, I find highway miles to be better than city. The heat cycling argument is often made, but most rebuilds do not change bearings, which are the only parts really affected by heat cycling. The whole "drive at varying rpm's" thing is a big wives tale, IMO. Just stay at a reasonable rpm as your ceiling for a while...too much centrifugal force is not good for seating new seals. Other than that, get in it and go.

 

mazda 3mm seals do not have a provision for dual springs, but atkins do...I think RA might as well. You can take a spare set of 3mm springs, like a used set, and cut them down, or buy a new set of 12a springs and cut them down. I believe atkins does this and sells them as 3mm dual springs.

 

RA 3mm seals use single springs so dont have the provision for the extra spring.

I have just bought a set and milled the .5mm slot in the seal and bought atkins double springs for 3mm seals. Busy rebuilding now.

The tolerance for the rotor to seal is 25 thou to 60 thou, so why does the solid corner seals atkins sell not even have 20thou tolerance?? I was suprised when I tried to get the feeler gauge in.

 

Solid 3mm's generally require hand clearancing. Also the rotor milling has a lot to do with it in my experience...the slot can be in perfect tolerance, but if the slot is off to one side or tilted just a hair, it will play hell trying to get corner seal clearance.

 

I'm going to have to machine them then, is the tolerance the same for the corner seals as the rotor??

 

yeah pretty weird with the 3mm oems not having a small and large spring.... i thougth i got jipped on springs! lol is it smarter to get some other springs cut and put in? the 3mm thickness should be pretty good at keeping strait and not warping. right?

 

I done it to put more pressure on the seal against the housing. Also didn't like the idea of just 1 spring. For the cost its nothing. Paying so much for a rebuild and not getting 6 more springs is stupid.

 

What about 3.5 mm seals, http://hurleyrotary.com/racingtips.aspx
same price, why not go with these?

 

Why don't we just use 6mm seals? Or 10 mm?

Do some research on Hurley seals...they are not meant for boosted rotaries and don't last long. Ask Rich (GoodfellasFD3S).

 

I think I heard my name

Hurleys are soft and break at the first hint of detonation. They have no application in a street-driven boosted rotary.

 

Thanks for the info, i'm currently looking into getting a engine rebuilt and want to know about the diffrent seals. I have heard hurleys are soft, but didn't know which seals are soft, i guess all hurley seals are soft. But the website makes it out be the best,and they are the only company that makes a 3.5 mm seal.Figure 3mm handles some detonation,these would be stronger. I guess that's why i don't see people using these seals, and i will take your advise on that, and stay away, Thanks again

 

Just use OEM 3mm seals....they have a ton of engineering behind them and they work.

 

Run oem 2mm 2 piece seals and a water injection system if you are concerned with having a threshold against detonation. If your rotors are milled even slightly incorrect to accept the 3mm seals, you're screwed. with 2mm seals, no milling required. less variables.

 

stock reman...30k miles...great compression still...and about 420rwhp @ 15.5psi (knock on wood...lol)
Obviously when this motor finally does go I will be in the same situation as a lot of people in this thread, but it seems the 3mm seals definitely have a solid arguement being 50% harder/thicker...who knows though and I will cross that bridge when I come to it.

 

bucky if i overnighted you my 3mms would you be able to do what you did to yours to mine? how much? and i would need these done quickely as mr chris rogers has my motor lol.

im also gonna throw a plug in here for my 2mm setup for sale

https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.php?t=542306

 

If you get them to me asap I'll do them for nothing. For what it takes its not worth charging.

But remember I am in the UK, so shipping wise it might be cheaper to get them local. And they arn't as hard as people make them out to be. carbide cutter went straight through them with no white water on.

 

lol forgot you were in the uk. damn, anyway should i really trust someone to do this? can you provide and idiot proof writeup for the machinist? also what springs did you use in addition to the long 3mm's that are also used? your proving to be a very innovative and valuable forum member!

 

ever heard performancetestedseals.com (pts) apex seal has any1 ever had experince with them. i heard the seal was unbreakable.

 

Does anyone know if the OEM 3mm springs are heat treated? From what I can tell they don't seem to be. The ones I pulled out of my carbon infested 12A looked like ****. They were bent in different angles like a coat hanger. In comparison, I've never seen any of the 2mm 13b springs look like that before on the later engines. If you tried to bend the 2mm springs, they would retain the factory arch where as the 3mm springs would bend to a point and stay bent. I may have to show pics to explain better.

 

We had Hurley 3.5mm seals in our FD race car and they blew just thesame under detonation.. no difference there.

I would go with something else if it was upto me...

 

I bought atkins springs, 1 set of long and 1 set of short.

If you take the seals to a maching shop with a standard 2mm seal just tell them to groove it the same length and depth.
Its that easy, it's only .5mm or so. Will take 30mins to do the set.

 

Machine shop? You can use a dremel and do the same thing. I had to on my RA seals because the small spring wouldn't seat in the groove during installation (it kept sliding over the ridge). I used a dremel to square the edge where the small spring would seat against the apex seal since it was rounded. You could also do the same thing to the 3mm seal to make the groove for the small spring.