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I'm actually curious—are you sure it was an M2 bar? Mine has no impact on the storage bins whatsoever, and the fitment and design are impeccable.
I'm curious too. I have the 'weld-in' version of the bar (it was actually Larry's personal bar) which has the harness bar included. This does hinder the bins from opening completely....but there is still plenty of access to the bins. They just don't open up far enough to prop themselves open.
Thanks! How is the harness bar on the Kirk? In some pics I've seen it looks quite low.
I'm thinking about Piper as well. Are they at Summit now? I know they're the gold standard, and I had them do some work on a Miata like a decade ago.
Piper was at SMP the last time I looked into them, it was a few years ago.
The harness bar on the Kirk is lower but is that really a compression issue as long as the seat passaged are higher than your shoulders?
Got it. I'm all over the place with what I'm looking to do. I've been building it up to be a street-focused car, but honestly it just seems like a waste of the car not to track it. I'm thinking about taking it out 2-3 times a year at least. But, the prior times I've tracked it I felt quite naked without harnesses/hans/roll protection. I know a bolt-in autopower is not a welded cage but it seems like a decent compromise where I don't want to hack up the interior and won't really be pushing 10/10 on track. **** still happens, though, I know.
What are you looking to replace yours with? Something custom?
Awesome to hear you are looking to keep bringing your FD out on track! Appreciating value and collector chassis be damned - that's where these cars belong!
There's not much, as you know, to passing safety tech
You already have the right mindset in staying within your limits - a safe and fun track day even if you run at 3/10ths is better than no track days at all
Better than being a spectator forever!
Like you are saying, there is an illusion of safety, and I feel it too with my roll bar, harness, HANS, fire suppression, and nomex - sh*t happens even with the best laid plans and kit
But a rollbar is a minimal investment compromise, and any of the above mentioned roll bar options is better than nothing (even with the structural differences in tie in points)
If I was in your position considering an Autopower, I would have done more to have retained the plastic B-pillar panels - the FD interior is so nice when all pieced together!
I am not sure of what I would replace my roll bar with just yet, but it will be fully welded in
Did you remove the b-pillar panels to fit the Autopower? Is that necessary? I was thinking it would fit with just the rear speaker panels removed and all other trim in place. Let me know if that's wrong.
Yes - I did end up removing the b-pillars, but I think Autopower did design them to work with them around the speaker panels
I would have made the B-pillars work if I had to do it over again regardless (and would have retained the carpeting, red leather seats, red door steps, so much... I am in too deep )
I just bought a used 7-point cage shipped for $300. The benefits of living in Japan.
I do need to source some hardware, though... I wonder if it needs to be Grade 10?
Anyone know a good way to darken old rollbar padding? Maybe some shoe polish?
I just bought a used 7-point cage shipped for $300. The benefits of living in Japan.
I do need to source some hardware, though... I wonder if it needs to be Grade 10?
Anyone know a good way to darken old rollbar padding? Maybe some shoe polish?
I was trying to find something to wrap it in so it looks cleaner. A nice elastic soft cloth with a velcro closure would be perfect. Ive seen something like it for offroad trucks and jeeps.
I just bought a used 7-point cage shipped for $300. The benefits of living in Japan.
I do need to source some hardware, though... I wonder if it needs to be Grade 10?
Anyone know a good way to darken old rollbar padding? Maybe some shoe polish?
The SFI-rated padding seems to get stiffer with age. If it's brown (sun-faded?), I'd go to OG Racing or Summit and buy new padding. It's fairly inexpensive.
I was trying to find something to wrap it in so it looks cleaner. A nice elastic soft cloth with a velcro closure would be perfect. Ive seen something like it for offroad trucks and jeeps.
Hard dog makes exactly that--vinyl or leather covers with velcro closures--for the Miata rollbars. The end result is simple and very clean. I'm sure you could have an auto interior shop make you something similar, or pick up some craft store vinyl and velcro and beg a friend that knows how to sew.
The zip-tied-sections-of-SFI-padding look gets a little sad in a dual-purpose car, for sure.
Thoughts on the StudioRSR bar? They have a 4 point option, seems to mount where the speakers go which works for me. I just do not know how strong that mounting point is... if it fails there its a mouse trap.
If you go DOM Steel, the RSR 4-point appears comparable to the Autpower (1.75") in design
I do like the arc of the main hoops on the M2, Kirk, Rogue, and Autopower better than the RSR - may just be me, but visually it looks chunky and although the radius isn't sharp, it doesn't look smooth?
One positive on the RSR is that you can add taco saddle gussets with the cross-bars design
The ~20% weight savings consideration with the option 4130 chromoly could also be worth it
If you want the strut tower mount style, you can import an AST 4-point - comes with a 1.75" main hoop and 1.5" piping back
Thoughts on the StudioRSR bar? They have a 4 point option, seems to mount where the speakers go which works for me. I just do not know how strong that mounting point is... if it fails there its a mouse trap.
Very expensive. Harness bar seems too low for the seat in their example pics. Seems like a lot of cross-bracing bars that look cool but add weight and are probably unnecessary? I think chromoly is no longer SCCA legal in TT competition, but not sure about NASA.
If I was going ot pay $2500, I'd have a motorsports shop do something custom welded.
johgar's interior with the Rogue looks really good, especially with the silver finish
Originally Posted by johgar
You may be able to get a few more FD folks on board if Rogue / Rogue's fabricator would be willing to do another batch
Originally Posted by Rogue Motorsports
The main hoop looks low, but I suppose the numbers don't lie
Originally Posted by Rogue Motorsports
No adjustments are made between batches. Also I do not see any safety issues unless you are about 6'4" and you need the seat pushed all the way back. If that's the case the fd might not be the car for you or don't run a roll bar at all. We mounted the bar as far back with no unnecessary curves or bends to the vertical portion of the main hoop.
Originally Posted by Valkyrie
I do need to source some hardware, though... I wonder if it needs to be Grade 10?
Congrats on the new 7-point!
My Autopower has grade 5 bolts (which SCCA point in time was happy with - I may swap out)
An M8 8.8 or M10 10.9 should do it
Last edited by ZumSpeedRX-7; Oct 1, 2024 at 07:41 PM.
Reason: hardware note
That does look good! I like the uncluttered looking design even with the x brace.
Mario responded with a "we no longer produce them" but I am encouraging them to entertain another batch. If anyone has relations there please help me out