2 most important gauges are?
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 4,772
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From: My 350Z Roadster kicks my RX7's butt
...to only two gauges? Electronic Boost & Water Temp
The oil pressure was replaced with a boost gauge in the '99-'01 models, so that tells you Mazda thinks its Boost & water temp.
I love the Blitz but they are metric, uhg! Apex'i has US versions but they are 60mm (too big) mechanical. I don't think EGT is in the top two because you have a warning light allready. Since she has an R1 with 2 oil coolers, I don't think she needs another oil press' guage nor oil temp.
I looked at Omorimeter and they have US versions but only matching with a custom min oder of 30...hmmm, group buy?
The oil pressure was replaced with a boost gauge in the '99-'01 models, so that tells you Mazda thinks its Boost & water temp.
I love the Blitz but they are metric, uhg! Apex'i has US versions but they are 60mm (too big) mechanical. I don't think EGT is in the top two because you have a warning light allready. Since she has an R1 with 2 oil coolers, I don't think she needs another oil press' guage nor oil temp.
I looked at Omorimeter and they have US versions but only matching with a custom min oder of 30...hmmm, group buy?
My input:
1) Boost Gauge. This unit is the first thing you need to detect/prevent/fix some problems with the car. A *MUST* have.
2) Water Tempature gauge. This is the second unit to throw in the car. The stock gauge cluster has three settings: COLD, WARM, NEW ENGINE. This water tempature gauge informs you quite a bit on how long to keep it idle on startup, when to let off the gas when reaching 210o, etc.
3) EGT Gauge. The exhaust tempature gauge is the next on the list due to the information pulled from here. It is easier to decifer what a certain tempature is, than pulling out A/F ranges. This will give you good indication of WOT runs and if your gasses are a tad too warm.
4) Oil Tempature gauge. This has the simular information as the water tempature unit. Statistically, you will find that the water temp is much more likely to increase in heat, but oil temps will also rise on you. Its a good fill gauge with valuable info.
5) Fuel Pressure Gauge / Air to Fuel gauge. I say these gauges last. Here is why:
a- The Air to Fuel gauges are so inaccurate for the use of actual tuning. If you want one in your car for the light show; then have at it. Other than that, what makes this cheap 4 wire (at best) to be able to give you anything relivent? The EGT will provide some information which anyone proficient with the car can determine.
b- The Fuel Pressure gauges (in car ones) are pretty bad in actually holding an adequate pressure. The stock lines are so small, and the fuel pumps pretty quick through them. Many reputable shops have played with the fluxing numbers of fuel, and the gauges barely move at all.
Anyhow.
Mike
1) Boost Gauge. This unit is the first thing you need to detect/prevent/fix some problems with the car. A *MUST* have.
2) Water Tempature gauge. This is the second unit to throw in the car. The stock gauge cluster has three settings: COLD, WARM, NEW ENGINE. This water tempature gauge informs you quite a bit on how long to keep it idle on startup, when to let off the gas when reaching 210o, etc.
3) EGT Gauge. The exhaust tempature gauge is the next on the list due to the information pulled from here. It is easier to decifer what a certain tempature is, than pulling out A/F ranges. This will give you good indication of WOT runs and if your gasses are a tad too warm.
4) Oil Tempature gauge. This has the simular information as the water tempature unit. Statistically, you will find that the water temp is much more likely to increase in heat, but oil temps will also rise on you. Its a good fill gauge with valuable info.
5) Fuel Pressure Gauge / Air to Fuel gauge. I say these gauges last. Here is why:
a- The Air to Fuel gauges are so inaccurate for the use of actual tuning. If you want one in your car for the light show; then have at it. Other than that, what makes this cheap 4 wire (at best) to be able to give you anything relivent? The EGT will provide some information which anyone proficient with the car can determine.
b- The Fuel Pressure gauges (in car ones) are pretty bad in actually holding an adequate pressure. The stock lines are so small, and the fuel pumps pretty quick through them. Many reputable shops have played with the fluxing numbers of fuel, and the gauges barely move at all.
Anyhow.
Mike
I always thought of autometer as having decent gauges at a low price. I assume your talking about the "full sweep electrical gauges"? One thing about thier boost gauges that I could never understand is the box at the zero mark....... this is on the new full sweep gauges too. Even if this thing calibrates everytime you turn the car on how will it ever be accurate if there is that 1-2psi range inside the "0" box? Maybe you can help me out with that. I will admit that the gauges are getting better(starting to use backlighting, different designs, liquid filled?), but the quality in which they are built just does not do it for me. I know it sounds stupid but the think I hate the most about these gauges are the needles! Hey different people have different opinions.
BTW - I saw your car in the magazine..... Very Nice!
BTW - I saw your car in the magazine..... Very Nice!
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have any pics of it? oh and i agree with all of the guys boost and egt for sure





